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To be fair, the main thing wrong is that these buries MUST be lock stitched. With a 3 1/2 Fid bury and a 1 fid taper, these splices will hold 90% of the original breaking strength. Yes, I always use a locked Brummell but that’s mainly because I don’t like lock stitching. I know the taper is not technically correct but pretty close.
Are those Samson thimbles not still considered "open"? Even if strong enough, wouldn't continuing the trough through to the front mitigate bend potential? Clearly the only reason they'd manufacture them that way is to save a few bucks, correct?
This video should be titled "How NOT to do a Dyneema eye splice". There should be a locked brummel, the taper should be more gradual (cut like you did but do it strand-by-strand until you've cut 11 strands) and the bury should be much longer (ideally, 72x rope diameter).
That’s not exactly true. A 3 1/2 fid bury with a 1 fid taper will hold 90% of the rated breaking strength BUT could slip out when it isn’t under load which is the reason that it MUST be lock stitched. Yes, I always use a modified or “Locked” Brummell which doesn’t require the lock stitch but both methods hod a similar load.
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Hi , great video.I’m looking at splicing a new thimble on my 10mm dyneema rope so use a smaller clevis hook to suit my boats towing eye.What sort of loads can be safely pulled with this splice?
If you dont taper you will create a point of failure where it ends inside. But this Video is not a good tutorial for eyesplices that really need to hold something. This eye will slip out over time if under varying loads
@@maltehundertmark912 well… to be fair this type of bury will hold fine as long as it is 3 1/2 fids long with a 1 fid taper and MUST be lock stitched for a 90% capacity.
@@andresedmach3903 It's super easy to tie a locking brummel. But the knot here is not that! It can simply slip and fail. There are reasons to not tie a locking brummel - like aesthetics - but a tow rope is certainly not one of them.
I might have been tempted to pass the tail thru the rope a couple of times before buring the tail in the rope even though a Brummel lock can't be done on one end. Lock stitching is not a bad idea as well but in the case of your eye splice, it is critical. Good video. There are allot of scissors out there that will cut UHMD fibers well, look for Kevlar scissors.
What you’re describing is the original Brummell splice. The other one that most use now is the modified or “Locked” Brummell splice which doesn’t require lock stitching.
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors
Sadly this just isn’t true. Yes, I use a locked Brummell on all of my eyes, but that’s just because I don’t like doing lock stitching. The reality is that lock stitching a 3 1/2 Fid bury with a 1 fid taper and lock stitching will give you 90% of your original breaking strength.
Best Value in Shears/Scissors for cleanly, quickly cutting UHMWPE, Dyneema, Kevlar, etc. cord/rope: Klein Tools 544KV Utility Shear, 6-3/8-Inch These shears cut like a dream. Micro-serrations on one blade firmly grip fabric/cord during the cut; the other non-serrated blade allows sharpening. Klein forged the blades from carbon alloy steel and tempered them to Rockwell hardness = 62C (VERY HARD) Pivot bolt allows tension adjustment. Price: $12 to $14 typical * www.kleintools.com/catalog/industrial-utility-snips/utility-kevlar-shear-fiber-optics-6-38-inch * www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GCKNJ8 * www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-3-5-in-Utility-Kevlar-Shear-544KV/302589187
Look up Brummel Splice. The bury isn't what locks the line - it is the double pass of the two ends which has been completely omitted here. The bury just keeps the tag end enclosed. What is shown here is weak and prone to slip. A Brummel splice cannot and will not slip under any circumstance.
The original Brummell went through the line twice then buried with a taper. It was good but not great. The modified or “Locked” Brummell is what most people talk about. If you do only do a bury it MUST be lock stitched.
In this video he uses SAMSON Splicing FIDS. They are made of soft aluminum and are relatively thick. Recommendation: Use SELMA-Splicing FIDS. They are made of thinner, polished stainless steel. They work better, promise!
One of the longest vids on the net 17mins then 10 in part 2,,, Brenton sounds insecure and unsure , compare with ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xavi1qzlfAI.html or some of linjespecialist done and dusted in just 7 mins,, There is also a Korean vid where they plait a 2 pair instead of cross stitching using 65mm od and that runs for just 20mins
I choose to use a locked Brumell as well but this technique (assuming a 3 1/2 fid bury and a 1 fid taper) will give you a 90% MBS as long as you do a lock stitch.
Yes, the Selma fids are best for 12 strand hollow braid but you should still ALWAYS do a 1 fid taper. Otherwise it will seriously reduce your strength.
I splice Tech 12 a LOT and always side small KS-2 Kevlar scissors as they have micro teeth that keep the line going back towards the cut. They have them on Amazon - Miller KS-2 Fiber Optic Kevlar Scissors