Nice video...I too made a spot welding machine with microwave oven transformer but it's wire gets heated up very soon after 2 to 3 spot welding...wire insulation starts melting
@@Engineersworkshoptechnology Either your wire is too thin (thin wire leads to high resistance leads to heat) and/or you're not using copper wire. The reason the weld starts were the electrodes touch your metal sheet is that this is the part with the highest resistance in circuit . Or do you try welding something else than iron sheet metal?
@@diecksl sir I tried iron sheet only...I have some doubts to clear can I mail you for query ?? As I don't know much in electrical but I want to make one more spot welding machine for professional use
This circuit produces a low-voltage pulse and heats the metal. For welding battery cells you want the pulse as short as possible to keep the temperature inside the batteries low (explosion/fire hazard). That is why usually capacitor discharge is used in this application.
Why not use the fryer as is without doing any of those modifications? Most deep fryers have their thermostat go from 30 Celsius up to the max temperature that the heating element can provide. This is how i did with mine, i played with the thermostat knob until it reached my desired temperature, in my case was 60 Celsius i marked the spot with a marker and that's it no need for all those expensive and complicated modifications.
This is one of the best designs I have come across on here. It’s extremely simple thus easy to replicate! Great job. The only thing I will try to change will be the trigger assembly. My torch turns off slit on its own. I got my torch from Harbor Freight about 2 years ago. It’s strong as the rest it will cut 1/4 inch anything. That’s 6.23 mm. For about 500$ brand new. Thank you again for your plans!
Of the secondary? The bigger, the better (as long as you can fit the right amount of turns into the transformer). If I remember correctly, I used 16mm2 cable
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Absolutely! If you have access to a bench electronic scroll saw cut pattern out of Luan 1/4 thin wood first. You can even use a tiny metal pin pointer to cut very mini lines. On the metal. Don’t get frustrated if your prototype doesn’t work. They never do first shot. V.02 is usually where the perfected prototype begins to excel. Have fun you can build anything you put your mind to!! ( Op this is more directed towards people just figuring it out. )
Your air flow exchange is lacking a bit. Inlet and no outlet but circulates the same air well. Cut an air slot in the bottom between the transformer and the front cover. On mine, I measured over 400 amps but my meter only goes that far. The screen said something I’ve never seen before “O.L.” 😆. Mains measured 5 amps running and 12 amps secondaries shorted with 120v primary. There’s an enormous back emf (off my scale) when the mains are disconnected, So be careful it could bite.
Belle réalisation!! Le Pb avec ces transfos, c'est que la chaleur Max arrive lentement : le métal brûle sans fondre et la soudure se fait mal. Ce serait mieux de faire un câble secondaire (2 tours) avec 8/10 brins de 5mm qui vont serrer la partie centrale du transfo sans laisser de vide, puis on tord ces brins en // . Là on a un Max d'amps qui viennent vite. Il faut beaucoup d'amps sur un temps très court , et les bobinages chauffent peu. De toutes façons ce transfo n'est pas fait pour des temps de soudure longs ,et simplement pour du métal très fin . Pour souder des accus au nickel je rajoute une carte pas chère (indispensable pour ne pas burner les accus) comme celle-ci : fr.aliexpress.com/item/33040580897.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.31736c373Yj8KU Prendre aussi le transfo 9V AC pour l'alimenter . La carte a un relais 9V pour la pédale ou le bouton qu'on peut mettre sur les électrodes , et c' est beaucoup mieux. Elle régule le temps en millisec. et elle permet une régulation de l'ampérage de sortie. Il faut quelques essais pour trouver le bon réglage selon l'épaisseur du nickel. J'espace un peu les soudures pour le pas brûler le triac (c'est du "made in China") . Je contrôle aussi la bonne qualité des soudures du triac , c'est parfois léger , je rajoute de la soudure , et je le plie sur une petite plaque d'aluminium (radiateur). Quand la carte est morte , c'est presque toujours le triac qui a surchauffé. Le petit transfo (9V) n'est pas de grande qualité, mais ce n'est pas facile de trouver un 9V en AC (alternatif) Sans carte, les électrodes se soudent parfois sur le nickel et il faut arracher tout de suite les électrodes en tirant , sinon on fait très vite un trou dans l'accu. Amicalement
Awesome design. Three things I want to add. The fan should work all the time, not only when you push the pedal, and also you should stronger attach those cables to the wooden elements. Also the welding electrodes should be thicker.
Hi Piotr, the fan works all the time if I remember correctly (see diagram in video). Still not enough cooling for long welds, as the MOT itself gets saturated quickly due to its small core size. About the electrodes: You're right of course, at the time I had no professional electrodes, only thick copper wire.
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