THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! A big thank you from the USA. I just got a 2009 Mini convertible for my daughter to learn to drive a standard transmission vehicle AND to satisfy my wife's desire for a convertible AND a 5 year old Terrier who loves to go for rides. I couldn't agree with you more, this is a POS car. My biggest problem was finding the gold screw on the left hand side. My buddy and I are over 6'2" and over 225 lbs (102kg) could not get down or inside far enough to see it so we took apart the entire inside panel to realize that there is just a small fabric pull-out to expose the gold screw. Learn from my mistake. It's not that hard to access but do recommend having another lad to help lift the cover. Once we got the cover manually closed position, we manually brought it back into the opened position, repositioned the levers in the boot or trunk, re-tightened the gold screw (clockwise) and the electronic/hydraulic lift was moving again. All the moving parts and safety mechanisms reset themselves and we are back to a normal, working order. We have no good reason why it failed to close in the first place. There was a sensor with an alarm that showed the roof open with the lock, but we just closed it a bit and reopened and it went away. It just didn't close when we wanted it to close. I agree, "Never buy one of these, awful car" But since the girls have one, this was an awesome video and I will know what to do for the future. Thanks again and thanks for making the second video. Both were extremely helpful.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! A big thank you from the USA. I just got a 2009 Mini convertible for my daughter to learn to drive a standard transmission vehicle AND to satisfy my wife's desire for a convertible AND a 5 year old Terrier who loves to go for rides. I couldn't agree with you more, this is a POS car. My biggest problem was finding the gold screw on the left hand side. My buddy and I are over 6'2" and over 225 lbs (102kg) could not get down or inside far enough to see it so we took apart the entire inside panel to realize that there is just a small fabric pull-out to expose the gold screw. Learn from my mistake. It's not that hard to access but do recommend having another lad to help lift the cover. Once we got the cover manually closed position, we manually brought it back into the opened position, repositioned the levers in the boot or trunk, re-tightened the gold screw (clockwise) and the electronic/hydraulic lift was moving again. All the moving parts and safety mechanisms reset themselves and we are back to a normal, working order. We have no good reason why it failed to close in the first place. There was a sensor with an alarm that showed the roof open with the lock, but we just closed it a bit and reopened and it went away. It just didn't close when we wanted it to close. I agree, "Never buy one of these, awful car" But since the girls have one, this was an awesome video and I will know what to do for the future. Thanks again and thanks for making the second video. Both were extremely helpful and this will continue to help others.
Hi mine is 2012 so no gold screw. I have undone the the two screws but the locking units come away as well as the hood . We cannot remove the units with the screws and as such they roof cant drop fully i to place. Any ideas ?
Brilliant video.. As someone who knows absolute zero on how to check car fluids.. I know exactly what to do now.. Even down to the catches inside the car and under the bonnet! Thankyou 🚗👍 I should know all this really.. I'm only 51 years old! 😂
Came to the comments for the same thing. Dunno what this insulation stuff is :O My kinda DIY, go straight into it without knowing :) I'm doing the same job, removing my oil Aga, so your video has been useful thank you. Oh and it's Vermiculite as said. Just gonna get me big ol henry on it and bag it up.
Best way by far is to remove wishbone and leave subframe and rear bush housing in place. Buy poly bushes for rear bush replacement - these bushes come in two parts an inner part and outer part. Use a sabre saw or reciprocating saw with metal blade and cut through the rear bush metal sleeve and it will come out easy. Free off a bit with a chisel on the sleeve part sticking out if you have to. Once out the outer poly bush pops into the bush housing. Then pop poly bush inner part onto the wishbone when ready to install. It all slides in easy with the poly grease and allows rotation movement without twisting. Far better design than original and cheap too. Done a couple of minis this way and would never replace these rear bushes with original spec again, after fighting with getting the wishbone back in for hours one time. I knew after I’d finished I’d probably damaged the new bush too! Poly bushes definitely the way to go- fit and forget plus zero lateral movement too.
@@paulcarnie1857 when i did it i watched a few (all crap) so i thought i would do a proper one which someone could sit down and make a brew and watch the night before and refer to later step by step - glad you like it !
I keep meaning to make videos like this, but I get in the groove, and next thing the jobs done😄, I started making one of my daughters Polo when I did the sills… went for a brew and forgot to continue recording 😯
Just had my MOT and i mentioned i sometimes get a banging noise from the passenger footwell especially with a bit of acceleration lift on uneven road. Do you think it will be this bush, Mot tester could see slight cracking in both bushes so gave an advisory and I was keen to sort the noise out. I had the anti roll bar bushes done on a previous mini when i had a similar noise, probably best to do both as the subframe had to be dropped when they done the last one.
They're meant to be loose and are designed to let water drain out while stopping fumes etc going up and into the air vents. I removed mine with a long thin rod (could use wire coat hanger) and they were completely clogged up. Once they're clean, you can then refit them and every now and then, give the bottom of the drainage plug a squeeze, and it will let out dirt leaves etc.
It's 17/1/24..got my self a 2012 one of these... Love the car nice little cheap run around.. Came here about the coolant a few things on this car not to easy but okay I suppose the coolant readings abit hard to see and the dip stick comes out at such a angle lol... Got a water leak in mine rear somewhere seen some videos could be the rear top brake light... Any ideas
3 common places and all relatively easy to fix. Rear/top brake light, side indicator housings and the other requires removing the bumper as it is the vents.. A gasket set is available for the rear lights (about £14), use some silicone gasket sealant as well and they can all be sorted. Start with just doing the top brake light. There's plenty of videos available as it is a very common thing. The bumper is quite easy to remove too.
Thanks for this man! My car is making a weird noise and with not knowing what i need, or wat to look for, i've put it off, i will be checking all these :) Thanks :D
I don't why didn't just remove lower arm now have access to the subframe bolts that hold the lower arm. I've done job twice on two separate minis dropped subframe just enough to get the long bolts out.Thanks
Daughters friend had a unit that had blown, locating it in the bottom of the tyre well seems a deliberate design issue that has since been relocated by BMW. Why they didn’t do a product recall puzzles me.
Unfortunately, this method has not worked for me. With my wife in the car and the engine running in reverse, there is no sound coming from any of the 4 sensors. I guess I will need to pull the bumper cover and test them with an Ohm meter.
I know this is a pretty old video at this point, but twice now in the 5 weeks since we bought this 2010 Mini Convertible, I've needed the wisdom shown here. I'm trying not to dislike this little car, but it's not making it easy. Thanks, man!
