That's one helluva high idle. What's up with it? I have a high idle I've been fighting for a year, now. CEL shows "IAC can not bring idle down low enough" or however it words it. So, it's not the IAC. I changed it just to be sure. I've cleaned out the TB and everything in there. Replaced the PCV... and then the whole MAF/PCV container thing along with brand new seals. I don't want to keep throwing money at it... But I think I have a blown intake gasket. It's running a bit rough at mid-throttle. AND if I pull the oil cap off, there is so much suction that the car dies. Does yours do that? I feel like I must have a vacuum leak somewhere, but it's not external unless it's from somewhere that's not under the engine bay. I think I have -20 mm/hg or psi vacuum at 55mph cruising, according to my Torque Pro app and Bluetooth OBDII code reader. Maybe that's idle, I can't remember.. ugh, I'm not helping much. If you have a reader, I'd be happy to compare some logs. I've even recorded dozens of logs. But I can rattle off some numbers to compare with you. Like MAF intake CFM at idle, Long and Short term fuel trim numbers, etc. Idle, cruising at 55mph, whatever. If you can throw some numbers or values that you want to see, I'll grab them and post them and you can compare if possible. Of course, if it's that cold and you JUST started it, it'd be somewhat normal. I know they idle a bit high when first started to warm the throttle body up quicker. All FI cars do that.
I just bought an 02 Park Avenue, and thankfully the PCV was just missing an o-ring, causing a vacuum leak. In my searching, I saw a video (I forgot what it was, so I can't reference it, but you may be able to find it with some searching) that showed how the plastic intake manifold can warp, right where the lower manifold, the upper plastic manifold, and the throttle body all meet. It can cause a vacuum leak that is virtually impossible to find. It's not that it melts, it just gets so hot that it can warp inside of it over time. Hope you can get yours fixed! Mine is a total joy to drive now. But those vacuum leaks can be scary. Also, I'm pretty sure you can check and adjust your throttle position sensor by hooking it up to a computer. I've read that even a few percentages toward the "open" position can cause a bad leak. I'm no mechanic, but RU-vid definitely helps me feel like one 😅
Thank You for doing the research your pain is our gain. Mine has got worse and worse , The loud metallic scraping sound is downright catastrophic sounding .your demo at the end proves to me what happing You helped solve a big potential headache !!! Way to go ! God Bless !
Same thing happened to me yesterday and thank God I had a screw in the tool pouch that somewhat fit it was able to get me at least back home. Put some Loctite on your screw it might come back out if you don't
I have a 2001 buick lesabra my left turn single doenst work but the right side and when i use the flashers all the singles work is this the same model and issue maybe??
I just fixed this on my buick, if you change one of the bad actuators, that's if you know which one, the first thing you do is, go and disconnect your battery, then put in the new actuator, go back and re connect your battery, turn the ignition to just the on position, not start. And make sure the ac was totally off before everything, do not touch anything, the new actuator will recycle, align or should I say recalibrate to the original position it supposed to be, you can see it aligned itself, I will say wait for ten minutes before you start the car, because many a times, it make take time to realign.
My neighbors Buick suv - while parked in her steep driveway- just opposit my front doors - started to roll down the hill when her 4 years old grandson accidentally kicked the stick shift out of park” into reverse. No keys in ignition or foot on the break and the car started to roll….. how the heck can that happen??
Definitely shouldn't have but that kid must have kicked the SH*T out of the shifter or pulled on it super hard and "broke" or "popped passed" the lock that holds it in P without the key in the key fob turned forward. Edit: Did you see it happen? This could be her lie that she told the insurance company and she had to tell you all, her neighbors, the same story to collaborate it just in case lol.
1998 Buick Riviera owner: Thank you for posting this! I thought I was going to have to replace the compressor. I figured the noise would go away after I replaced some very worn belts (not easy on a SC 3.8 Riviera btw) but no such luck. You're "Angle Grinder" description was spot on lol! ordered the tool & a new clutch assembly
It looks like the window HAS to come out before you can remove the regulator, correct? Aside from taking the motor out how is it released from the regulator and out of the door frame?
2 minutes 25 seconds. I just took my 2004 apart and that slider is completely the issue. If you go to the junkyard and put the window down halfway you can just grab the back side of the window and push up and down checking for play. If you have play, that’s a junk one! I may pull my regulator apart and have something fabricated to fix mine. Unfortunately this part is discontinued.
Also, the plastic pieces that hold the window to the regulator get worn and have play also. Those are still available. GM pt number is 25687641. Hope that helps
Still having this issue. The play in those poly bushings are definitely the problem. Mine had issues going down, got one from a junkyard that had opposite bushings that were wore out, now I gotta pull backwards while going up to get the window to not fall off track going up. Wish I could replace the bushings, might have some fabricated on my original regulator and see what happens
