I used 16mm rod for Y axis, 10mm rod for Z and X. I modified Left and Right plastic supports for 10mm rod holes (shown blue color PETG) for X rod and Z rods using Solidworks 3D software and print using Blue PETG with my small 200mm x 200mm Anet A8. You can see more detailed video Here : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B86fTvL6M7w.html
Sir, I am looking for an inexpensive 1911 model for making leather holsters. Do you sell these? What would it cost to have one made and shipped to the Houston, TX area? email: swihart.robert@yahoo.com
hi may I ask your advice. I printed with a nylon filament and got separate slices in several sections. the base will be lifted when the object is getting higher I use the temperature of the nozzle 250`C and 100`C heatbed. What is wrong with the printing process that I do? thanks.
Hello, looking forward to print nylon too, i've modded the anet with 2 power mosfets, cooling fans on motherboard, stainless steel extruder nozzle and V-notch metal frame. Did you do something to the firmware, what mods did you do to make your ANET8 to print nylon? Cheers
I fly lots of airplanes mostly electric using my Horus transmitter. So far so good. I've never got any lost signal situations. Also Frsky receivers are very reliable and cheaper that Spektrum. It seams like Spektrum protocol is not so reliable and a lot of modelers got lost signal situations led to airplane crushing. I don't use my old Spektrum7i anymore. Just toss it away :)
Hi what make and model servo did you use for the rudder? And do you have the cnc design file for the parts for the rudder assembly ? And a link to where you got the seal kit form?
I don't have any CNC files. I just put drawings together on the paper and machined it just using regular lathe and milling machine. My mill has digital read out (DRO) which helps a lot :)
I got some stingrays, guitarfish, leopardsharks and small fish. The problem is that costal waters (less than 1 mile)near Los Angeles have no fish :(((((( You have to fish at least 4-5 miles from the shore to get something better. Maybe I try to go Catalina island.
I use to night fish at the beach in Chesapeake Bay. About the only thing we would catch were Blues, but we had 3 hooks on about a 24 inch leader and most casts would bring in 3 fish. LOL
Do you mean flying 100 feet far from the public beach in Oxnard is a Navy Base? O... I see. Probably beach also is a Navy Base and all these swimmers and fishermen are camouflaged Navy seals ... LOL
I built two fishing torpedos. First one shown here in this video was a bit heavy. Then, I built better one. Here the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DeymhqmgXaM.html
First of all you have to check if your Z-rods play inside of plastic housings. Just shake them a bit , and if you feel some play inside these plastic holes, you have to remove them , put one or two turns of scotch tape at the end of the Z- rods and assemble them again. Do it until you don't feel any play. Second see my Mods about X and Y perpendicularity. Third, I print only with ABS filament. It's the best for me. My settings always are the same whatever I print with ABS. I printed big vases , torso, gun, whatever. I use CraftWare slicer. You can download from Internet. Its free and its very easy to use. So my settings are : Extruder nozzle is 233 C, heat bad is 90C, printing speed is 60mm/s, layer build is 0.2mm, infil is 19%. retraction speed is 80mm/s, retraction length is 1mm. I dry my filament in oven before and during the print. I use under heat bed isolation, made of balsa wood or cork. See my mods. I use regular window glass for my bed. I rough the surface of the bed with 80 grit sand paper in one diagonal direction ( wet sanding) Then, I use acetone ABS slurry to cover the bed ( sprinkle or use brush or even just a finger. Then, heat the bed to 90 C and start to print . For better and safe printing just replace the stock heat bed wire with 12 Gauge silicon coated RC wire (Amazon) and solder the ends to the heat bed contacts. Also I used 2 mosfets and additional 12 V DC power source. I use one mosfet for heat bed , the second one for extruder nozzle. The old stock power supply I use to power the main board with step motors. I bolted down my Anet A8 to the 12mm thick aluminum bed for stability and vibration reduction. That's pretty much it. If you do the same , you will get the same quality I guess.
My slicer is called CraftWare and I got this gun colt1911 file from Thingiverse.com and it has a custom support. You don't need to do anything , just print a file :)
I got this gun STL file from Thingiverse. No, these supports not added by slicer. They are custom supports. It's design in 3D cad as some additional parts of the gun kinda.
Nice video, confirmed ideas I already had to use aluminium angle to reinforce my as yet unbuilt A8.I don't think your bed is not square, is proved by your use of the plate lining up against the acrylic sides, I think you could fix that by just loosening the screws on the aluminium "H" frame and adjusting it....."THE WIZARD" fixes his front to the base, I note you chose to put the angle aluminium on the front "upside down" so you missed the opportunity to fix the front in this way.you need to measure the X rails against the Y rails somehow avoiding the intermediate structures.I will see how this can be done as I build mine.
Hey, I just shown there one left side end gup was 1mm. That means that X and Y not forming sharp 90 Degree. All these aluminum holes on the bed machined with precision. SO If I use the across aluminum bar as a X axis , it should form 90 degree with Y axis. As simple as that :)
I could put front angle aluminum upside down , but my table was a bit smaller and standard aluminum angle was smaller than front plastic height. I paid for that aluminum table almost the same like for my Anet printer. Its a cast aluminum table with smooth machined surfaces made for tooling :) Anyway I print using ABS most of the time with my Anet and it works great.
I used Garolite for printing nylon. It works great. Glass or using carpenter glue on glass doesn't work for nylon. It will lift off after 7-10 layers. Just buy a Garolite plate from internet (Amazon) or McMaster 1/16" thick, and attache it to your glass bed with clips and that's it. You don't need heating the bed and you don't need plastic cooling fan. I recommend to unplug the cooling fan from the board that's the best. If you disable using the programming it doesn't work. The fan still works even if you put the set the speed to 0. Unpluging from the board is the best. It works 100%. I've never printed big parts covering the whole surface of the bed. But it works for small parts like for example gears.after printing just put part with garolite board into the fridge for 15 minutes and you can remove the part from the board very easy. But I think its better to play with ABS ratter than Nylon. Its a good plastic too. For kayac ABS can work too. Its actually cheaper almost 2 times than Nylon. For ABS I use glass bed with a sanded surface and ABS slurry. Just build an oven to dry your filament. Thats mandatory for Nylon and ABS. It gives a great quality of the surface. Please see the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zIN8X2emXII.html For ABS you need to ruffle the surface of the glass in diagonal direction with 80 grit sand paper and use ABS slurry to start printing ABS ( dissolve some ABS in Aceton). Apply it to the cold surface with brush before printing. It works 100%. Use 90F to heat the bed. Unplug plastic cooling fan for ABS too. That's the best. Now I like ABS more than nylon. Printing with ABS much better much easier and much cheaper ... O men... that's the best 3D Printing plastic material per me. Forget about Nylon. Nylon sticks to Garolite only and its hard to work with. ABS is water resistant, high temperature plastic. It can work for Kayaking very good too. ABS more rigid than Nylon. Nylon is softer. Again ruffle the surface of the glass (wet sanding) with 80 grit paper in one direction only. ABS will not work on regular smooth glass surface. It will lift off. Do this and you will appreciate later on...I guarantee. Nylon is great for small like gear parts only.
I just ordered the A8. I plan on using it to build parts, prototypes and accessories for kayaking. I'm wanting to print exclusively with nylon (probably nylon X from MatterHacker). I'm new to this so any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
I don't sell them. I just made one and that's it. Actually I use standard 1/8" thick aluminum angles ( cut the size and make some through holes, machine some slots and simple edge rounding with a sand paper ) The 16"x18" / 1/2" thick aluminum plate I got from local metal supply shop. ( machine some holes with threads for leg supports and that's it)
Actually the practice on shore before to fly above the water is very important for this kind of action, just to be able to adjust the hook. I thing that you cannot use very light lure, otherwise the weight of the line behind could exceed the weight of the lure and the line could release earlier ( before to approach the target point). I'm talking about 500m or more, I shall try. If the hook is directed ahead, when the line finished you just can rotate the drone 180 Degree and release the lure. This shall avoid the risk to release before. Thank you !!
Sure , you can do like that too. Just test first on the beach. I tested in my backyard , in the park and on the beach. Then I tested flying to the ocean :)
These are the 3 cell Lipo batteries that I used www.ebay.com/itm/Lipo-Battery-11-1V-10000mAh-25C-XT60-3sRC-Drone-Lipoly-Battery-3S-Fr-Quadcopeter-/391838559023?epid=1839851182&hash=item5b3b65eb2f:g:2jcAAOSwf-xZo4lD
