Welcome to FOREGONE TRAILS! Where we take the trail less traveled. Getting back to the basics working on old Jeeps, new Jeeps, or whatever other vehicle we have on hand all in a small garage with basic tools. All too often we don't enjoy what we have or what's around us, our goal here at Foregone Trails is to remember to have fun, build cool, stuff, and enjoy what we have. Projects get out of hand fast and can be overwhelming to start. I hope to inspire, entertain, and show that with a little persistence and a can-do attitude no build or adventure is out of reach.
Hey man I like the videos, wanting to try and reach out and see when and where you were planning on doing that overlanding trip in October. I wished I’d have grabbed your phone number from dirtfest lol
@@WrecklessChevy I’m in the planning stages. Shoot me a dm on Facebook or Instagram Foregone Trails on both. I’m not sure if there is a private message option on RU-vid. I’ll get you the details.
I'm with you. I love the look of the 72-73 Commando grill. I don't know how many times my jeep got mistaken for a Scout, Bronco then identified as a Jeep Commando.
Yes, a CJ front clip will bolt right on. Just have to make provisions for the lower part of the fender and holes in the cowl to mount the hinges. Some people add a spacer. This Commando has the conversion done. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LRWtAAXq1ns.htmlsi=xIqcGUk09s6UsAvS
No issues so far with them. Really like the added ease of GPS on the speedometer. We used this stores.partsdude4x4.net/dash-plate-3-hole-with-hardware/ to mount the gauges. They only fit a 3 3/8” gauge. But you might be able to squeeze a 4” with the right fab work.
Haha mine are staying with the motors they have. Unless something catastrophic happen. My next “from scratch” build will have an LS though. For all your merch needs: foregone-trails.printify.me/products/1
I appreciate it, I actually have a spare dash. But it’s completely untouched so I didn’t want to install it just to hack it up for this Commando. I also really wanted to incorporate Apple car play and a few more “modern” amenities that didn’t lend itself to a stock dash.
It’s a Jeep, 1972 Jeep Commando. Put one of the steering joints 180 out when I assembled it. The alignment is good the steering wheel is just positioned wrong.
😂 you’d be surprised how many people messaged me about ruining such a pristine Cherokee. Even though it was flopped on its side and missing most of the interior when I bought it.
If I'm not mistaken, lord knows I have been before, that blue commando ended up on its side in the mud. Quite unfortunate really. Think it came out alright though. Thanks for coming out and supporting Recoil Outdoor at our first big event. Look forward to future wheeling with yall.
Stacey? The blue commando? Yes I do, we actually planned to meet up on this trip. I’ll be posting a “Rig I Dig” on his commando next week. If all goes as planned.
Epic failure and great success all in one 😂 I agree I think it sits just about right. It’s at least two inches lower than the yellow one, little wider, and still has the same suspension travel if not more.
Great looking Jeep! Things rarely go to plan on a fresh build or maiden voyage? I’m about to build something similar with my CJ6 , stay safe on the trails 😊
Thanks! I guess it’s a fresh build and it’s maiden voyage so things were expected to not go perfect. But one radiator hose is a fairly small issue. Couldn’t be happier with the way it’s turning out. A CJ6 would be a fun build. Very similar to the commando.
Nice find! it has good exrerior steel. these bodies were heavily undercoated and usually lacking in rust that attacks the bed wall seams due to AMC-JEEP adding an inner bed wall in 1973-5. FSJ floors were optional. the warer comes in from holes in the plenum (open vent with grill at base of windshield) and the foot well vents fill with leaves which allows crud into the cab there too. if you want to avoid future floor rusting out as bad, try two things: 1) raise the outboard edge of your new floor, because the factory floor boards are angled to allow water to pool there inside the pinch weld. 2) do not install ANY floor mat or carpet over a painted floor. seamseal it and hercu-line it and then maybe you wont have insta-rust when your floor matting attracts moisture like a sponge. grills. 1963 to 69 Jeep trucks used the original "Rhino" or "Rhino Chaser" grill. i dont know why its called that. but thats what you have. Razor grills replaced the Rhino in 1970 through 1978 in trucks. 1978 they got the plastic grills and square headlights. Wagonner grills and Jtruck grills crossed over, henerally the Wag got grill updates more often, and had a plastic grid grill in 1974 or 5. fuel pump...you got it. ive found long cranking is required when the truck isnt run daily. i bypass and remove all the mecha fuel pumps on the Jeeps ive owned for at least a decade or two. i like electric inline pumps wired to the run circuit. you can prime the carb without cranking the motor. most Edelbrock 1405 and 1406 carbs are good, they still require rebuilds (cleaning out) about every six months even with a 5-micron filter for a 1994 GM V8 truck. Also...you might want to try a few things with your carb in Oklahoma: 1) install a heat insulating spacer between yiu carhnand intake. at the v ery least, the cellulose fiber one, i recommend a resin or hard plastic spacer...make sure they are flat on both sides or they will crack or leak. 2) install a stock steel filter with a bypass nipple for a return line. run the return line at the 12oclock position and the return line (and feed) AWAY from the exhaust system. it really helps fighting hot start issues, and vapor lock. 3) run a snorkle from tue core support to tue air filter housing, it may be sucking 120° exterior heat into the carb, but with no snorkle, its sucking 200° heat from the backside of the radiator, the exhaust manifolds, and the motor itself. that isnt ideal for running in hot weather. your TH400 is a Buick model. the internals are swappable between pretty much all TH400s, but the bellhousing is a bolt pattern exclusive to Buick. your Dana20 transfer case is the weak link if you drive like an idiot. they are NOT rated for abuse behind a built up V8. check Novak's website for more knowledge. they sell adapters for 20s, but most CJ trail guys i knew back in the 90s just recycled em. a couple ran warmed up 360 and 401s with Dana44s and 35inch tires...and stuff broke. the Buick V8 will NOT have hardened exhaust valve seats. it was designed in the era of high octane tetra-ethyl leaded gasoline at around 97octane. running low octane gas at high RPM will wear out that engine. your axles and brakes are about the most undesirable hardware on the truck. They were closed-knuckle Dana44 fronts until 1974 or 5. the wheel stud pattern was also upgraded then, to six studs. trying to find good drums in general (and specifically hardware) for Jeep truck drum brake axles was a pain 10 years ago with my buddy's 1973 J3000...same axles and brakes you got. we had to use 1970s Dodge brake parts kits. I dont recall parts numbers. plan on getting the wrong parts multiple times. most Chinese parts are notmthe correct specs for Jeep trucks. I'd convert to disks if possible. swapping on newer model (73-87) J-truck axles wont be easy due to spring differences and perch type/locations. Forget Wagoneer axles...they are 6 inches narrower. ScotchBright - is used professionally to SCUFF the surface of paint to allow new primer and paint to adhere. you dont buff anything out with ScotchBright. the best results i ever got on old paint was using a wet Cotton T-shirt and just rubbing the paint down (using some force). the cotton is finely abbrasive - like way nicer to the old paint than ScotchBright or metalic scouring pads. it removes the oxidized paint and polishes whats beneath. Avoid microfiber towels...they are polyesrer and dont have any tooth. good luck!
Thanks! Lots of good info there. I’ll be making some notes. We haven’t decided exactly the plan for it yet. Probably just something to cruise around town in and make hardware store runs.
Well depending how you view it. You’re looking at a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with a 1972 Jeep Commando body swap or a 1972 Jeep Commando with a 2001 Jeep Cherokee everything swap haha. So it has an entire wiring harness and drivetrain from a Cherokee. The first video on my Crusty Commando build playlist shows all the details.
Another comment or 2. Big believer of using a Power Bleeder for solo bleeding. Brakes in general are the easiest (maybe should clarify "disc brakes") to DIY. Drums. Not as much fun but doable. Love the "Wrench or Wallet" motto!
The power bleeder is a game changer when bleeding brakes alone. Agreed drum brakes are not near as straight forward but still doable if you’re patient and do one side at a time.
Yep. Your points of paint / vs powder coat etc. etc. are solid. Unless someone is building a show vehicle why would you powder coat the underside? Paint then use the dang thing then touch up as needed. Rinse and repeat!
