Hi! I'm Ali a mechanical engineer with 10+ years of experience in fields of district cooling & water treatment (Design, Operation and Maintenance). Subscribe to my channel to benefit from the videos I upload related to aforesaid disciplines and/or other educational videos all recorded or made by me.
Sir you are keeping everything same atleast you should give us concept like what and when we have to change it, for example Min CWT 60F this is from where? Also minimum 20% load for chiller from where, are these values are std or what. Thanks
Should not connect air con power line to double pole switch directly. Add one more socket box after the double pole switch. Such that when you want to replace the air con, you can switch off the DB switch and then freely to loose the power line. If you connect air con to DP switch directly , when you want to replace air con, you still need to switch off the mcb in fusebox. That's a bit more troublesome.
Engineering, not Technician !!!. may work on paper but not in real life. Taking apart the feed pipe work looks like it had to be done in this case. Using a monkey wrench instead of pulling directly latterly on the end cap is a quick way to damaged the RO. Also pushing from the feed end to discharge end is always better even if you utilize the new RO Membranes to do so.
No inverter unit will accurately control a comfortable temperature.prove me wrong.I’ve used temperature data loggers and temperature will run high and then suddenly pull down and overshoot set point
Great explanation!! but considering that the result obtained in the formula is an instantaneous value, How we can obtain the accumulate load energy? (kw) How can we obtain this value manually?
The artificial narration is very, very annoying. But the subject is interesting. I watched it to the end, even though I wish real humans would narrate these things.
The Tesla Valve Tesla’s valvular conduit is mostly misunderstood as presented in much of literature and most media such as RU-vid in recent years. This device cannot be called a valve if used as an inline flow resistor. It is usually but erroneously demonstrated as a ‘one way valve’ with fluid, be it gas or liquid where the pressure drop is considerably larger in one direction flow than in the opposite. To use electrical analogy, this is not a diode but a resistor, therefore, the word valve is inappropriate. The expected ‘valve’ action (check or non-return valve) is unimpressive if anything. Tesla originally construed his ‘valvular conduit for gas flow, and in fact specifically for gas under pulsating pressure. In this application, it may be called a ‘valve’ or a ‘fluid diode’. Gas under hight frequency pulsating pressure takes advantage of this clever topology and is free to flow in one direction with relatively negligible losses and practically no backflow. With careful design, Tesla’s valvular conduit is a true pulsating gas diode with no moving parts. An illustrative application would be an IC engine exhaust manifold. It should also be noted that this valve will have optimal performance at a single design point, i.e., temperature, fluid type, volumetric flow and frequency, so that any change of a parameter will have it operating off optimum. As for making a modern design, I imagine a cut and try method with FEA would be used.
One can have a 4th type of system as well. Create an off grid system to run 50% of the house load; lights, computer, radio, refrigerator, coffee maker. Use a bank of Generac generator transfer switches to engage the selected circuits to either the grid or the battery/inverter. One can install a plug on the end of a wire from the Inverter to a generator receptacle to power the transfer switch bank from either the battery powered inverter or a generator. Connect the solar panels to the batteries with a separate charge controller. Why go through the mess of using a grid tie inverter with the inspections, upgrades and contracts with power companies? One may not have to go completely off grid to save money and to have strategic emergency power in the house.
I may do that 4th here in the Philippines. Too many brown outs, like every day, and a typhoon? None for a month or longer. If I can afford it, I'm going completely off grid, but, if not, I will put lights and the exhaust fan in the kitchen on the grid, and in a separate panel, everything else
