Whether you'd like to make period pieces or contemporary pieces it can help to learn some traditional handtool woodworking - no electricity, no noise, no expensive machinery, just the safe (and quiet!) ability to make the finest furniture possible, plus some extra techniques not possible with machines. A lot may not be obvious but with a little patience you'll have more fun! One word of caution: it's always possible to get hurt, so remember always cut AWAY from yourself and keep the workpiece firmly secured! www.blackburnbooks.com
This is SO COOL!!!! Thank you from a neophyte woodworker!!! I'm so thrilled to have found your channel!!! I've watched a couple videos already and I'm so impressed how much information and how you break it down for lay people like myself! Thank you!
I honestly thought that all the experienced woodworkers/carpenters/etc did things free hand, and thus I thought i was just supposed to go free hand until i got 'good enough.' great to hear that I should be using a jig
This series is wonderful. It is such a rare thing to get to watch such pure educational content. Brilliant format. It is very specific though, which might be why it has a smaller audience compared to some power tool woodworking channels. For me, again, this channel is one of the best things to have access to, really! Thank you for sharing. Graham, i have a burning question on my mind that you might be able to help answer. I have recently built a set of three beautiful pieces of furniture utilising traditional method of frame and panel construction for the carcasses as well as doors. Upon installation i have noticed some doors not allining as they should - the doors look twisted. Like if i did not make square mortices. But they are in fact quite nicely in plane. Is there a way to adjust the butt hinges to influence the allignment? To be clear about the issue, buntly put the bottom part of a pair of doors meet nicely, top part is noticeably appart in the direction as if one door were not fully closed. Adjusting the feet does not solve this. Fit of the door is ok in terms of the gap. Could be better but well within what i can live with.
@@gjbmunc i managed to solve this for one of the three pieces yesterday by moving a few of the hinges slightly ( plugged the screw holes and carved out a bit more wood for the hinge mortice) and by adjusting the height of the feet. Not the cleanest, but it does at least close propperly now. Will see about the other ones now.
You picked up the spokeshave-like tool and said it was still available - but what is it called? Is it also known as a chamfer plane? Very interesting episode, sir. Thank you for sharing.
Really interesting indeed! Thanks for another lesson, Graham! 😃 I have 2 wooden spokeshaves I bought from China... I'm going to try to modify the curved soul one to put wings! 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I found your ‘Woodworking in Action’ DVD Series interesting. I got most of them from Popular Woodworking, but by the time I could afford them, some were no longer available. Any chance you might have, or obtain the rights to them, so I can complete my collection? Gary Katz, a finish carpenter who used to sell dvds, eventually uploaded his videos on youtube.
Hammer handles have the same characteristic, and both screwdrivers and hammers share another useful feature that arises from the same bulge. That is, you can pick up the tool, allow gravity to pull the heavy end down, and you can stop the tool in the position needed for use. A hammer without the bulge will fall to the floor, but with a bulge you can catch it at just the right spot. This is important when you make a mallet as well--shape the handle and you will be much happier with the tool.
I have inherited the intact tool box of a late 19th early 20th century jointer/carpenter/cabinet maker. The tools are all what you might expect including hollows and rounds etc. A walk right through your book. There is only a tung and groove plane for 1/2 in. panels and only a grooving plane for 3/8 dados. I would have expected 3/4 panels and at least 1/2 or 5/8 dados. Or were framed panels thinner in earlier days? Where would he use 3/8 dados enough to have only this dedicated plane size? Do his choices give you a clue of what work he might have routinely been doing? Thank you for your thoughts and very informative books and videos. Sincerely, Dick Sutliff
I wish you had specified what you meant by “a scrap piece of metal” you can’t just use any piece of metal laying around like a galvanized sheet steel for duct work, or aluminum. This needs to be a carbon steel of adequate thickness.
Hi Graham....thank you..l really enjoy your tutorials, now reaching for my wooden planes with there enjoyable sound of a swish when sharp. I have planes...some going back to 1870. A real privilage to own them, thinking of all those before me. Can l ask please how I get back to your first videos and be able to follow on numerically. Thank you once again... Regards John ...78
That my friend is short of genius !!!. I have to make one now. Love that 45 degree piece that has the dowel pins and presses directly into the shooting board.
A man or woman can only be as good as the knowledge they have from experience of such things as well as others. You sir, have just expanded my knowledge base and for that I want to say " Thank You"! I haven't heard of this before but I can think of some useful places to use this and I will implement them at some point. Stay safe and Happy Building 💯😁
To be honest, I am a learner sir, loved watching your video, ur good tutor sr I tried making one working bench, it's height had came up to Hip level, ,too high to High for planning wood planks, can you suggest 😅 some ideas
I love using hand tools. Quiet, soothing, and very satisfying to use. It gives one more of the feeling of creation and art than power tools. I even used handsaws rip an 8’x3” live edge slab once. Took almost 2 hours ( and a sharpening during it) to get it done. Haha. Now I use power tools for that kind of bulk work.
Yup this is 100% true! Short pieces are scary as heck on a jointer or planer. Just the other day I saw a guy on RU-vid whose whole hand went into a modified jointer trying to run a short piece through. Got to leave them long then cut short or do it by hand
I was lucky enough to acquire a set of wooden planes. At the time I knew very little about them except that I had to have them 😁 watching your videos has answered most of my questions about them, including, what to look for, reconditioning old planes, and the correct use. Thank you.
I must second the use of a scratch stock. I have made and used a scratch stock on projects, and it is surprising how effective it is. The blade is easily made from an old saw blade, cut with a dremel or hacksaw, shaped with files, and sharpened with sandpaper or whatever. And fun to use, not without a slight learning curve. To be frank, it can replace or surpass all those mounding planes behind Mr. Blackburn!
After the algorithm spoon fed me just one random video of yours I bought ‘woodworking techniques’. It should arrive in a week and I hope to find more of this in there. Thanks!
Dear Graham, I just wanted to say greetings from the Netherlands. I'll keep an eye out for wooden planes in my local second hand shops. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge!
Thank you sir for all you do. You truly are a national treasure of the art/craft, sharing your skills, wisdom and experience in the trade. Thanks to you and others, the tradition is very clearly in good hands. Even if not into woodworking, others will still find your videos interesting, just learning how trades people were able to make such fine furniture centuries ago, without all the power tools.
The Ultimatum Brace is the most beautiful tool in the world and I so want one! I've considered making one, although it will never be as beautiful as your brace.
After watching this I just ordered two carpenter mortise chisels an 8mm and a 14mm. I need to cut a few good mortises for my bench build. Thanks for the lesson.
@@gjbmunc Your welcome sir. I have just completed chopping 4 mortises that are 1.25”x5”x2” depth and they came out square and snug. These are for the short and long stretches connecting to the legs of my work bench build. I really enjoyed that. Now, on to the through mortises for the legs wedged tenons to connect to the bench top.
Thanks Graham, you just reinforced my aversion to electric routers and costly bits. This is a marvelous tool that I can make to get the edge features I’m looking for. Also, as a tip for source material to make the blade I suggest old saw hack blades they are my go to metal to make small parts.
It is amazing how people so quickly sell their intellectual birthright to the "backscratchers", rather than find much greater (AND more economical) pleasures in their own cleverness! With so very much within our reach, thank you for extolling the virtues of an all-too-ready simplicity of 'kit'!
