@giobbymenta - I think he meant at 0:42 a yellowy, "custardy" colour, as in apple pie and custard!! Although I suspect you may have made your comment tongue in cheek, no?!! 😀
Nice video but you could have added one being used - how much insulation do you bare off for instance - I have ordered some to move a plug socket. I suppose it may be obvious when I get them?
For a home office, with computer, is 4,000 K the best choice? My current home office has 3,000 k ligjts and im having a diifcult time getting my computer set (brightness) properly. Seem to have some glare or something. Im wondering if 4,000k would interact better?
I love the color temperature of a good old fashion incandescent bulb, and for me that is 3000K all day long. 2700K (or less) is too yellow (with LED's it looks fake) and anything higher than 3000K is just to cold and clinical IMO. Although some folks seem to like fluorescent lights in kitchens and elsewhere in their home. That is insane IMO, that harsh of a light is just soul sucking. Like sitting under fluorescent lights all day, no thankyou, that is only good for certain types of work for short periods.
1:43 You've got that backwards. THAT is natural daylight. The sunlight you get on earth isn't white, but slightly yellowish-orange, due to the atmosphere absorbing the blue light a bit. So the 'daylight' at 1:03 is the actual cool light, because it looks "cold" and clinical due to its bluish tint.
4000k is not cool for 1. And for 2, I think the main problem is that manufacturers are inaccurate, and NONE of them are consistent. There should be industry standards set for LEDs where they have to be calibrated to within 100k of their rated color, and there should basically only be 3 tiers of lights based on color quality AKA "CRI" 85+, 90+, and 95+, with those being accurate to within a maximum of 1 CRI below their rating. And to make things simple for the customers, it should basically be 3 colors; or 5 at the absolute max. 3000k "warm white", 4000k "neutral white", 5000k "bright white" (or cool white) and if you extend it to 5 colors, a 2000k candlelight and 6000k "cool white" (or "blue-white") depending on what you call the 5000k. My theoretical favorite is 4000k. That is if I can ever get the damn chance to see a true-to-spec calibrated light.
man you re right the 4000k is neutral but not the same as sun The sun is 5800K and the best is around that if 3 gu10 probably the best is use two 6000k and one 4000
@@CarmellaNYC That's the best practice, yes. The overheads need to match each other, and the accent/mood/task lighting should match between rooms, but the overheads and accents don't HAVE to match. IE if you have overheads at 4000k or 5000k, you can have your pendant/chandelier over your dining table be 3000k, 2700k, or 2200k, but you'll also want your reading lights in the living room to match that pendant if it's open concept.
Yeah, 5000k would be Daylight and about 6000/6500k would be cool light. Companies throwing together light packs will arbitrarily name it "cool light" at some (actually) warmer light temperature such as 4000k
i use the ideal 30-1342S have done for a good few years , im not sure where i would use these as the levers always say to me temporary but hey they make life easier thats for sure and its my mentalness not wago
Four years ago I needed to pigtail some wires in my sub panel and used the Wagos because to me they look neat and don't take a lot of space. Four years later I'm doing a panel change and those Wagos are still as snug as they were the day I put them in. As an added caveat, they're UL approved. A word of caution though, there seem to be a lot of imitations and knock-offs out there that are NOT UL approved, and they're pure chit. IMHO the REAL Wagos are the bomb.
Can I use these for a light switch cablr in the UK? I accidentally drilled in the cable which was in my wall for my light so I turned of my electricity and I am currently using them plastic blocks. The cable ran from inside my wall and into the light switch. I have currently cut the cable and was wondering if I can use these to join two ends together
@@thealien_ali3382 I know they're UL approved in the US, and CEC approved in Canada, but I'm not sure about the UK. I have used them here in the US to pigtail short wires in switch boxes and receptacles. Best I know it's not allowed anywhere to splice wires inside the wall. Most electrical codes that I know of require access to the splice. Here in the US you would have to pull a new wire or put in a J-box. If you know where the wire is damaged, I'm thinking you could buy a old work box and use that as your j-box. Cut a hole in the sheetrock just big enough for the old work box, pull the damaged wire into the old work box, and run a new wire over to the original box. You can make your splice inside the new work box and cover it with a blank or decorative wall plate. OR you could just cut a hole for a new work box, remove the old switch box, and fill the hole with a sheetrock patch.
@@timmedification I think you're correct as most suppliers are UK. Ideal is an American company and by contacting them, they can likely steer you to American suppliers.
I'm looking for them, too! It was just by accident I found out Wago even makes these. I love the 221 series, and have been dreaming of an inline. Wonder why we can't get them in the States? Hopefully not the dreaded "supply chain issues"...
Thanks for sharing our new 221-2411 Inline connector... For further information on our #WINWITHWAGO competition please visit www.promoentries.com/wago/
