Home workshop here doing multiple repairs or fabrication. Hoping to get involved with learning to make helpful and/or fun videos for tools, repairs and equipment. Mostly repairs and machining here. Trying to learn more about the video and audio to make this better. Thanks for watching and any helpful comments are appreciated. Easy on me. LOL, I'm camera shy nomally.
Looks good. Just wondering about team name and logo trademark liability. Also, Looks to me when you're folding the top, or grill piece, the angle iron should clamp to the bottom side instead of the top. You wouldn't have to worry about using a shorter length of angle either.
I said I would release a part 2 but I haven't really decided what would be in part 2, please comment if you have questions of what settings you want to see, I know there are folks that struggle with mysterious things it's doing.
I haven't messed with Plasma cutting in a couple yrs or more, email me at larrytech54@gmail.com and I'll try to send you something that might work for you. I would suggest you use SVG files instead if you can, they usually work better.
Thanks, I don't see anything except 1 like on my end, but yes I only make videos if I see a need to possibly help someone out actually. Thanks for taking a look, I will try to look into doing one soon for the game controller if you're interested.
@@larryrobinson7492 I could really use a gamepad controller video. Your instructions work great on the keyboard but not so on the gamepad, thanks Larry, bob
@@bobblackfly I did install the game controller last night but I didn't think it worked as well, I explained that on messenger to you. It was a little more complicated to figure out but it does work. Weekend is a good time for me if you would like a Zoom conference where I can show that.
Hello Larry, just came across your 3 part series. I'm new the CNC world and videos like this are greatly appreciated. I'm still deciding which software for a beginner to start with. Then upgrade once I get a feel for it. I'm using 1.2 gsender, is there need download a newer version? Thanks Mike
I'm still using Gsender Edge 1.3.8 kinda scares me to change since it works so well for me but I have the Super Long Board coming this week so I've heard it works best with the latest Version, Heck I ain't Skeered I'll just work through it and if I don't like it I can go back to the one that works. I just do this stuff for fun in my shop but do CNC machining 50 hrs/week at work so it's relaxing here.
Really just to show how the clearing tool works in this example. Maybe not really necessary here. It just clears some material out of the way so the Vcarve tool can make less passes. If the letters were really Big it would be a huge time saver and get better quality of cut this way.
Maybe Adam Booth could do with watching a bit of this and learn to write, or at least understand and manage to alter the program's G code to get the results you want or indeed to figure things out when it's not doing what you want as you indeed mention. If I comment too much over there, I will only get blasted, and his current mentor @MechanicalAdvantage sees no need or value in him learning the G code. For a 'fundamentals' machinist , what an incredible method of going about things. I moved on from the CNC industry 20 yrs ago, and have no experience of conversational, but not to learn the G code anyways seems a pretty fucked up approach to me.
@james-ew7kl Yes sir: I completely agree, I have used some conversational controls like Haas and Mazak and it's ok but it really makes you dumb when your starting out because you don't truly understand what the code is doing and how it works. Gcode is very simple once you start looking at it and editing on it as needed. I edit and sometimes write code for both lathes and mills at work and it really helps you stay fresh with it. It aggravates me terribly to see so many mainstream RU-vid creaters in the CNC world with CNC routers, laser engraving, etc that literally tell people that they do not need to understand Gcode, yet I'm constantly seeing people ask questions and confused about why their machine is doing something they didn't want and they don't have a clue to go look at the code to see what is being commanded and go from there. Most of the time I can look at the Gcode and see exactly what I did wrong in the CAM software just by seeing the code, If it isn't too much code I usually just go ahead and edit the code and roll on. Adam has had numerous training sessions with John Saunders and others, I've never had that priveledge, John is great at what he does. I've learned by watching RU-vid and learned the CNC Plasma then went full time as CNC machinist several yrs ago which has really made it so easy doing it everyday around a bunch of great people that know it well and are always willing to tell me anything I want to know. I am now about as good or better at it that most of the shop. I really enjoy CNC. Thanks for the comment, wish there were more people like us out there but I guess everyone has been pursuaded by the crazy way of thinking that Gcode isn't necessary to understand. Good Day. Larry Robinson.
Being willing to wait for items helped me save a lot. I’ve spent $800 dollars for everything and the vfd was $450 of that price. So after 18 months, I finally got everything and am in the process of making the same belt grinder.
I like the snap-on emblem on that toolbox lol.There not supposed to leak anything. Most people think the residual oil left after running a saw that drips off is it leaking oil.
Hmm, that was a long time ago, not sure what emblem you are referring to. I bought that KRL7003 toolbox from Snap On in 1997 I believe. Spent over 20 yrs working for a Ford Dealership before changing careers to CNC machinist several yrs ago. Thanks for watching, my videos are poor quality but I try to offer helpful content and I'm not monetized in any way. BTW I didn't realize ( when I bought that toolbox it had to do with Dale Earnhardt) I couldn't stand that guy back when I watched Nascar, he was a dirty Racer to say the least. Good Day.
I have one of them but I wasn't looking for a exact angle here, just matching up the corners and trying not to overbend and was not in a hurry except for trying to make video quicker, I'm sure if you did these alot you would know what angle works and be able to repeat it very close. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Update on this, after taking it apart and cleaning this about 3 times in as many months.....I finally realized the part that the grease drips on inside must be leaning away from the auger and towards the drip bucket. It don't really fit all that great but since doing that I haven't had any more problems and have used it alot.
My last job before retiring, more than 20 years ago, was the gage technician for a large manufacturer. I had access to more than two thousand micrometer calibration records, as in when they were put in service, how they calibrated over the years, and when they were discarded. That included just about any brand you could think of, and some you probably wouldn't know. For those that were in service daily, there was a definite difference between Starrett and Mitutoyo. Average life for a Starrett, in less than ideal conditions, was at least twenty years. Mitutoyo would run maybe ten years before it couldn't be calibrated any longer. Yes, I have more than a leaning toward Starrett, over 90% of my instruments are Starrett, most of them I bought new. I do have several 0-3 inch Chinese micrometers that I use here at home, as long as they're kept clean and not thrown around, they're pretty good. B&S, Lufkin, Scher Tumico are all good. And my combination square set, as you might guess, is Starrett, with hardened heads. Maybe a little more expensive, but worth it.
You pretty much are doing exactly what I do except these days I usually soak the piece in diluted hydrochloric acid, that makes it really easy and removes all mill scale. So glad to hear you say use the right side of the cup brush, I’ve tried telling this to people for years on plasma forums and been ridiculed for saying so but I know it works, it’s like they don’t get it, the wire rotates into the edge, removes dross and tends to blunt sharp edges, where rotating over it isn’t as effective and tends to sharpen the edges
Yeah I can't tell on gas flow if that's too high but I can tell for sure that the run-in is too high for whatever it is that you're welding now you're welding thicker steel than your run-in might be fine you just might have to increase your heat and that can also make it to where it'll change the sound because now it has a deeper penetration into the steel cuz it's higher voltage you were using so you might even have to increase your run-in more depending on the thickness of the steel but I'd start off with the run-in tone it down just a little bit and maybe just a hair up on your heat
Don't be an idiot, was just checking it after fixing it finally. Been welding plenty over the last 35 yrs or so, It's not the operator, this welder had a real problem for years.
Very nice. I've had my lathe for about 6 years now. Ordered my mill back in September and it just got here 2 weeks ago. I've really enjoyed mine I feel you will also enjoy yours. My wife tells family that if that was all it took to keep me in the shop we would have ordered it the week after we got married. Lol been married 25 years dang I lost a long time in the shop.
It was a great working welder once I finally found that loose wire that had caused me all those problems. I liked it better than the Lincoln but the Lincoln is a little higher amp welder.
Would you mind if I bought the dxf file from you for the one you are building on this video? I can add my own logos and all... I just like how yours folds and makes it easy to weld
What’s the overall length of this pit? Can you make this on a 4x3ft table? I don’t wanna buy this guys plans and my table be too small to even make them
Hey man: I haven't messed with this stuff in quite a while. I can look up my drawings and get you any thing you need to fit your set up if you want. I just looked up this drawing on the Ford/W pit I had and it measured 31.03"X31.03" the way I had it. You can resize it however you want very easily. I am more that happy to help you if you need me too. Just email me at larrytech54@gmail.com or contact me on facebook if you want. If anyone is in North Tx and would like to come over and have me help them somehow I am happy to do that in my shop. I enjoy this stuff but I loose motivation by myself in the shop. I will share any drawings I have if you want or show you how I draw things if that's helpful to you. Thanks for your interest in the video. I'm terrible at making videos but I just do it because some actually might learn something.
Love that you weighed all the parts. That minor extra weight on the trailer is nothing. The weight you save by using a goose ball instead of that 5th wheel hitch more than makes up for it. Total weight is less with this setup it seems.
Yes it's been a while I don't remember the details but I do remember it's about the same weight as what I removed from the trailer and I don't have to put that big goofy, bulky heavy 5th wheel hitch in the way in my truck.
That was nearly 5 yrs ago, sorry I don't remember every detail but I'm sure like any rings as a general rule just try to turn them so the gaps oppose each other and any dots or markings usually go up. If yours are different than what you removed you may need to refer to manufacturer and make sure the piston isn't updated. It seems mine was a perfect fit and match. I just use the model number, etc and go on granger website and figure it all out. It's been a long time and she's been running great with no problems. Thanks for watching and responding.
@@larryrobinson7492 my original ones gapless and new ones are not and no dots for up. They have step on the od as well. Never seen that. Going to call them tomorrow
I use AutoCad .. I can do what you did so much faster. but like you said, Its what program your use to using . all the noobs think its a turn key system, buy a file and cut it out and make a million dollars ... then they dont want to spend money on cad software .
Yep, I'm out of practice and I was going slow trying to show a friend a little about how easy this software is for his race car building business where he sends parts to be laser cut. Autocad is a ridiculous amount of money for something that most people don't need.
@@metalworksmachineshop I had LT it was at least that much per year, I even talked to them about it and told them I wasn't interested in paying more than once. My son is a draftsman using Autocad every day, he;s good but I can't seem to use it very well since I don't do it daily. I'm a machinist 50 hrs a week running lots of CNC machines and don't really have time right now to learn stuff I don't need. This Cut2d software is amazing for what I do at my hobby shop and will do much more than I ever need. I enjoy your videos. Get er done.
I don't care for that look or feel of Leather at all but that's me and obviously you do so that's great for YOUR truck. I'm obviously much older so we won't have the same taste for sure. Gas on it Man.
AArrrghhh! Thank you for helping regain my sanity. Not sure why they sell this with that pulley issue. I'll just grind it off since it doesn't have to be precise.
Hey Larry, thanks for the video. I actually appreciate the added commentary.. You mentioned that in your opinion the trans fluid should be changed every 50,000 miles, and engine oil no more than every 5,000 miles. Like you said, the owners manual specifies 150,000 miles for the trans fluid and I believe they advertise up to 10,000 miles for the engine oil. Are there any other fluids that you recommend changing prior to when the owners manual suggests you should?
There's not alot to do on todays trucks, I don't remember what I said but, when you change the oil just look everything over very close, (preferably on a two post lift) check tires for wear, brakes, air filter, fill washer fluid, don't add brake fluid (that's dumb) rotate tires if front to rear tread depth differs by 2/32 or more. Check differential fluid level occasionally but if you don't see any leaks it should be fine anyway. Change differential oil with only the correct type at around 60-100k miles. Check for any slack in your ball joints, steering linkage, etc. Check driveline ujoints for slack or tightness. There is no fuel filter on gas engines. I will probably go ahead and change my air filter at the next oil change 25k miles. Don't blow air filters out, just replace if you drop it and dirt flies out. Thanks for your input. I still haven't had any trouble with my truck @ 24k miles now. Good Day. Larry
A very good upgrade for the sander is to replace the pulley behind the sanding disk. 3" pulley with a 1/2" bore hole (tractor supply). Drill out the bore hole to 9/32 (shaft sizes might very). Replace the 1/2" V belt with one that's 24" long. I cut down the key for the keyway ( pulley doesn't have a keyway) and just tightened the screw into the slot. Assemble, align the pulleys and test how it runs. Performance is better, but the reduction in vibration and the resonating noise was reduced drastically. But, I mostly sand metal on it.
I have mics ranging from 1"-4" - Mitu, Starrett, B&S. All, other than one of the Mitu, are analog. It's not a matter of which is best; it's a matter of which is best for the way you use the tool. Whether the mic is digital or analog, the accuracy of its readings will hinge on how the operator uses the tool. It's all based on feel. My suggestion, FWIW, is to get some gage blocks/pins and practice with your chosen micrometer until your muscle memory can utilize the tool effectively. Good luck.
Just a tip. On a good milling machine those T slots are machined parallel to the table sides as well as those chamfers on the top edge. They can be used to center round stock. Take that vise off and that shaft will set right on that table inside the slot and run parallel to your machine.
Cut a flat on the shaft the width of the keyway. That sets up your chord as your calling it. then plunge the depth of your keyway basically 1/2 the thickness plus a few thou. Or what Adam did was most likely used a piece of stock that was 1/2 as tall as the keyway he was cutting was wide. Thus when you feel just a bit of edge over the "half key" your at the right depth. Well all said and done you'll never forget now.
Yeah, That was nearly two yrs ago, I have learned alot since then, running CNC machines daily now at Air Tractor so I'm kinda spoiled now to how dumb manual machining really is...LOL I still do it at home and a little at work but it really is pretty senseless in a manufacturing plant.
@@larryrobinson7492 Well alot of shops cannot afford big cnc machines so manual machines will be around for awhile. you almost need to be an electrician to keep a cnc running. Those repair techs time are not cheap.
@@Sam-ix9gd Very True, we don't have much trouble in our shop but alot of us especially my boss are pretty good with electrical stuff so we manage to keep about 25 CNC machines rolling. We have alot of old Mori Seiki and others, as well as quite a few newer Mazak, Haas, Hyundai, etc. pretty interesting building hundreds of different types of parts in pretty small quantities of a few dozen or so and doing alot of setups, then every month pretty much starting over and building them all over again. Making about 180 airplanes per year over there.
@@bossmedic6051 Thanks, I don't remember everything I said but I probably have built less than 10 of these and my current opinion on that is 10 ga is plenty thick in most cases as long as it's a weld together type up to about 24". I think currently 10ga material here in North Tx is close to $200/sheet so I have no interest in buying any for these type of projects until prices are back to normal. Thanks, for viewing and kind comment.
I think it's called Spark Robotics, I believe the owner is Frank Johnson ?? Search for that and call him. I like the setup and how the TruCut works as is better personally but some seem to like the simplicity Frank has set up for them. You can follow Trucut Cnc owners group on Facebook and get alot more info, sorry I'm not much help. If you have a XT model I may can help on some technical info if you need it. Thanks.www.sparkrobotic.com/products/retrofit-control-package
Hey Larry, thanks for the video. New to owning a truck. I basically got the same truck. Just a different trim model. I have read a couple things about oil separators. Is it worth it? Is a good thing to add to your truck/car? Does it help or hurt it? Or is it just a gimic?
No, that's a silly thing all these wanna be guys are talking about in groups, I had to unfollow all that it's foolishness, You could catch junk like that on any engine ever built but it's simply none sense. If it needed to be on there it would be there from the factory. Thanks for viewing. I now have 14000 mile on mine with no problems, changing the oil every 4000 miles with 5w-30 Motorcraft (the only recommended oil by FMC)
Oz, by oil separators I assume you're taking about catch cans (probably interchangeable). In either case, they are useful for vehicles that solely utilize gasoline direct injection (GDI). It's a lot to go into here, but if you're interested, look up RU-vid videos on the downsides of GDI engines and the carbon build up that they cause on the backside of your air intake valves. It's an inevitable problem that catch cans can help to mitigate, but not eliminate. It's a big reason I shied away from purchasing a truck with strictly GDI fuel delivery. However, they are not necessary for the F-150s because they utilize a combination port and direct injection, they call it PFDI. The port injection aspect injects fuel over the backside of the air intake valves (the "traditional" way) which prevents carbon build up. I know this is true for the 5.0 and I assume the same is true for the 2.7 and 3.5, but you may want to confirm. I will vehemently disagree with anyone who says catch cans are useless on a purely GDI engine.
