For nearly 20 years, Points Unknown has been our hub for sharing do-it-yourself how-to's, maps, recommendations, tips, and ideas, all compiled to help you get outside and explore your backyard, your region, and the world. Capturing the knowledge, research, and wisdom we've come across through our own projects in the points unknown garage and our adventures throughout the world.
Points Unknown is about being practical, functional, and budget friendly. We're documenting the steps we've taken, tools and gear we've used, and tricks we've learned from building out our sprinter camper van, maintaining our motorcycles, and traveling throughout North America and abroad.
Our mission is to inspire adventure by making it accessible. We cover the gear we really like, cool places we've seen, and routes we've taken. We're excited to share the knowledge, experience, and challenges we've come across while pursuing the hobbies we love.
Very cool! My wife and I just completed this tour yesterday. It was a great adventure. A little challenging 2up on a bigger adventure bike, especially in the mud! But a great experience with Ecuador Freedom. Thanks for sharing your vid.
We had very good weather. One main day of rain - it poured on our hike to the falls! Salinas is also top of our list. Amazing town. We got the chance to go up to a special lookout to watch the sunset above the clouds.
Hi. Yesterday I had a low speed rear ending collision. Ending my front fairings almost all damaged. Also the glass of the headlight. Any advise on that part? Is is possible to just replace the glass?
I bought those same levels and the left clutch had too much friction in the housing causing the lever to not release the clutch when letting go. Perhaps a manufacture defect?
@@PointsUnknownTV right side went in like butter. left side could barely get the lever into position. Lots of friction at the pivoting points of contact. The lever felt like it was too wide to fit into place... I saw you recommended the same lever I ordered and thought to give it a second try.
Ah. I see. Friction at the pivot. That is no good. Does sound like a manufacturer issue. I had that issue with some foot pegs I ordered on eBay. Would not fit at all. I took a grinder to them and now they are great! But I wouldn't recommend that approach for something as important as the clutch.
Get rid of the black box and side bags. Move to a giant loop style bag. You want to ride like a pro? All that bulk and weight adds up and does make a difference. Go as light as possible plus you wont hit a tree or vehicle with that crap hanging off the side.
Many thanks for your video, I've done these before but this is the first time utilising Oxford EL690's, I've always used R&G here in the UK as they are good quality and half the price but unfortunately don't do Adventure specific grips which are a bit longer. Thank You.
when removing the clutch lever you have to screw the silver part all the way in to get slack and line up the slot so that you can remove the cable leaving the silver adjuster in place. then do the opposite when installing the new lever. what you are doing at 3:10 is wrong
Sure. If you say so. But my method worked just fine. And I'm not sure how you would remove the cable end from the slot with the adjuster in place. But I appreciate the feedback and can try that next time.
I didn't initially (first year). And it was okay. A little bit less leaned over, but still stable. But I recently purchased a lowered kickstand from Camel ADV, and that is a bit nicer.
Too light in my opinion, you have to make an extruded band of at least 5mm (Bartubeless type) otherwise during tire assembly-disassembly there is the risk of ruining everything.
Even though i really like the less weight of a T7, considering i ride 90% on road i cant let the comfort, power and wind/rain protection of the AT go. Thanks for making this great video!
Thanks. I often find myself looking for the shortest videos for these types of things (and watching them at double speed). So figured I could put that to practice.
I use the WETOLS ( and I like it ) and with my handles extended, I measure .700 for the plusnut/bulbed crossnut, rivnut, etc. tool and I may have to use your trick to make it work. With your handles extended, what depth do you get when you say your 1/4" nut won't hit the threads? I will be using the same 1/4" nuts. Sorry I'm so late to the party
How tall is Beth? You didn't mention anything about seat to ground distance and I'm wondering if this might be a good option for a person who has shorter legs.
Beth is 5'-5" (165cm) tall. The UBCO seat height doesn't seem that low (32") - but Beth has no issues with a 29" inseam. Furthermore, the frame is step through at the center, given it's scooter-like configuration. So even if the seat felt a little high, you can move over the center and have plenty of clearance, even with shorter inseams. So - yes, I think it would be great for shorter legged folks.
I really don't see the point in using the tape over big globs of sealant. The tape is almost definitely going to leak. Sealing the individual spokes should be adequate if prepped well. Also, it's much easier to clean off if you have to adjust the spokes. You can use a rotary wire wheel then just reapply the sealant.
Yeah measuring with a caliper... 😁😁😁😂 Just fully lock the handblebar left and right and make sure you have a little free play left in each position. That caliper is bullshit method.
Nice. I just spent about an hour looking for longer mandrels. There may be such a thing but not for my tool. I don't understand why they just can't add another quarter inch. Must be worried about interference but that could be easily remedied by adjusting the nose piece out. Well there is certainly a void in the market here someone could monetize on. Good tip thanks. 👍
Wondering what's the purpose of the rubber rim strips on top of everything. I put one on my tubeless conversion (3m 5200 quick set only with no 4411n tape) and it broke and made my wheel unbalanced at random speeds. Found out after replacing tire for a new one - no issues with it since. Rear, started leaking so slightly after 1 1/2 years so I removed the tire to look at things and I don't think I spent enough time cleaning, roughing up rim etc. So now in the process of redoing rear with more attention and the added protection of the 4411n tape. Hoping for the best. Thanks a lot for the video!
That's a really good point on the rim strip. I put it back in "because I had it". But it really is extraneous with the sealant and tape. Even if I did bend the rim and need to put a tube in, I don't think I'd need a rim strip. And it's a good anecdote that sometimes the extraneous stuff causes more problems than benefits.
I did the rear only on my 2018 AT, lost 0 air for 90,000kms then rode 3 long days in 100 plus degree heat to a flat tire morning of the 4th day. Tape looked like tissue paper when removed. Just bought a 2023 Transalp, I’ll do the rear only again.
Just out of interest, in the 90,000kms, did you ever get a flat in your front wheel with the tube? I ask as I also have a Transalp and am deciding if I can leave thr front wheel alone like you have done
Thanks… I’m at this point right now…. A little bit afraid to get it together again 😅…. Some peanut has connected the TomTom wire behind all this with my bike instead of going simple to the saddle with a thunderbox wire system…
