Was all excited when I found this video as I have sash windows, some three storeys high. Then realised my Victorian ash windows have no side screws! So not as simple. Back to drawing board! ☹️
any recommendations what to use as primer/undercoat and paint? my window paint is flaking off badly after they were done with water based paint 6 years ago...
More like an extended advertisement than a How To (as I was looking for). Not enough detail for a How To, on top of which there are often non-narrated subtitles speeding across the bottom of the screen at the same time that there is not one, but two or more demonstrative video clips running. How to watch two+ videos AND read subtitles at the same time, I don't know! ...if I were that much of a genius, I'd be making enough money to be able to afford to pay someone to fix my windows for me! LOL
Bit of a rough job by the looks of it, filling & sanding isn't going to give you a decent finish on inspection. I came to the site thinking it would be about renovating & double glazing an old window, this was just bodging.
5:30 Always use the worst, oldest brush in your kit & over brush, brushing the material until dry so the finished surface looks combed & stranded. omg & wtf from Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
Hi! Is that the hinge that keeps the window at a certain height? Or the little screw that that keeps the side bead secured? I just moved to a flat in Edinburgh and the sash windows are really nice, albeit single glazed. Do you know if single glazed windows are replaced with double glazed ones in Edinburgh without messing about with the casing?
Live up in Edinburgh and needed to refurbish my sash and case windows. This video was just brilliant, thank you for making it. I’d love to see more.. perhaps how you go about making new sashes and the joints you use.. I see some use dovetail which is no doubt great for strength but requires much more kit than a tenon. Other thoughts would be re-roping vid, routing out sashes to take double glazed panels, restoring warped shutters, making new shutters.. the list is endless and this vid is so clear I’m sure you’d nail the other videos too!
The lower sash of some of my windows are wobbly and I was thinking, while I realized that these can be easily removed, is it safe for me to reinstall them a litte bit further, so to stop the wobble and consequently reduce the air bleeding gap? I would then put a line of sealant just to make sure there arent any further leaks from the bead and the frame.
No. You need to work out why they are loose. Has the central parting bead deteriorated? Has someone replaced the staff beads with the incorrect size? Sash windows are not complicated and are well worth repairing. Have a look at this guide : www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/publication/?publicationId=9ea41caf-aa32-4827-ba08-a59100fea1a3 You can buy what you need from Reddiseals etc.
Im a carpenter and can build these sash windows from scratch. Yes you can move the staff beads closer to the sash to reduce the clearance, just make sure you dont move it so far over that the sash is stiff to move.
What about security if these type of windows are on the ground floor..... I reckon a burglar could just push them as the wood for the sliders is just doweled in.
I love this job when everything is going fine but on the most of the cases it don't :P I also use this black 1pound snippers they are the best You can buy like 5 instead of one which gonna wreck sooner than this five anyway :) I also suggest to use rubber mallet for bead's job. Nice movie and good job, regards.
I have a window that is rotten 5 inches up the sides so I had a whole new sash made and 2 pieces about 18 inches long jointed for the corners. I don't know if that makes sense but basically, I'm trying to replace the lower fourth of the window and I'm not sure the best method to join it to the upper 3/4ths of the window.
Super awesome! I second the question about source for the clips and brushes. Also, what were you using for the wood repair? I've used a two part wood epoxy, but it is a pain to work with and not as fluid.
I think is two part wood filler. It's not the best solution for cracking wood becouse You should glued and screw it first but You can repair small holes and gaps. Of course remove the rotten wood first.
You are quite right that glazing points are important for safety and for glass stability. This video focuses on sash window restoration as opposed to the more specific topic of glazing. Could be that these fellows glazed properly with points and oil based primer or linseed oil, but thought those matters to be off-topic. Greetings from an amateur in the USA.
Hi Gary. Great video, thank you! What is the name of the drill attachment used at 4.31 please? My replacement parting bead is too large for the groove I have.p and that looks perfect to help widen the groove.
Have a look at Dremel bits - you can use any old drill as they are doing. Dremel have various routing bits that are suitable for this kind of job. Or you could use a router with with a 9mm - 3/8" bit - though you would have to make a jig for it to run in - Good luck with your restoration
Matthew Smith your spot on there all that accelerated rot from filler and silicone trapping moisture. The lights will fall to bits before long as they fill the gapping joints. I bet they charge the same money or more than I do and they do nothing for the preservation of these windows!
