Really great video and I have gone for the MX Vertical. I have developed some severe arm problems and after a short time of using, I am optimistic that it will help. However, On Mac Mail, with the Magic Mouse, I am so used to scrolling an unwanted message to the left to expose the red "Delete" button. Is there any way of programming a button to do the same thing? Incidentally, scrolling to right on the Magic Mouse gives an option for "Unread" or "Remind Me" which might also be useful.
Hi. When duplicating films or slides, the emulsion side must always be facing the camera. You should never photograph an image through the plastic base of the film. you will just need to invert the image horizontally after during batch processing.
Thanks for this review Jay. I found myself looking for an ergo mouse since I started some heavy developer work. Between the lift and the MX Ergo (trackball), which is better for one's wrist in the long term in your opinion? Thanks in advance.
I am not an ergo expert by any means, but I think it comes down to your desire or lack of, for a trackball. The MX Ergo keeps your wrist from moving so much and your thumb does all the cursor positioning. For me, I found that my thumb fatigues after an hour or so. You might want to try it from a place that has a return policy.
I really like that you have to press a button to wake up the computer... It is frustrating to me that i can sleep my computer and then I would accidently bumb the mouse and it wakes the computer. This is more of a problem for me because I use my mouse in bed and on the couch. Often I don't even touch the mouse, but just movement around the mouse on the couch or bed will wake the computer. So for me a button click is a feature, not a negative.
Is there an ergo mouse that can be used with both hands without buying 2 mice? I have bad DQ in the right thumb since start of 2024 (technically lefty but mouse mainly right) and am awaiting corti-shots and have been in PT since diagnosis, but as soon as i moved mouse to left hand had started same pain in left, as now left taking all the work.
A Nikon LS5000 Coolscan produces a 4000 dpi image of a 35mm slide measuring 4000 x 6000 pixels at around 21 mbs. A camera scan with the ES2 and D850 produces a 8256 x 5504 pixel file at 45 mbs. Does this mean the camera scan image is better than the scanner file?
I haven't seen a scientific test on this, but from my experience I suspect this is the case. I owned an older Nikon Coolscan that produced unremarkable results (by today's standards) and took 38 seconds to scan each slide. Compare that to several seconds per slide with the ES-1and excellent quality with a modern camera, and most people would be hard pressed to search out a dedicated film scanner unless you have very specific needs.
No, you calibrate once and you are good to go. Also, you are calibrating the camera body, so you can change lenses and you are still calibrated. Note, the dot sights do not work with close up objects (hence not useful for wide angles, macros, etc).
Thanks for sharing! It is super helpful! I do have a question and hope you may help me understand. When tracking a birds in flight, should I place my eye right in front of the red dot sight? If so, how do I monitor the autofocus in viewfinder/backscreen then? I suppose if my eye is super close to the sight I won't be able to check viewfinder/backscreen at the same time.
You will need to experiment a little, so that you can see the dot clearly but you can also see with both eyes the location and which way the bird could move. I find my face is back from the camera about 5 to 6 inches. The dot sight is designed to be farther away from your eye and not like the camera's eye viewfinder.
Clicking a button to wake it up (instead of just touching the mouse) is useful if you move a lot. Less chance for accidental wakeups when it is inside your backpack. Yes, there is a swich off button, but let be honest, how often do you remember to switch it off?
Hmmm.. a $25 mouse, no complaints ergo that needs a click to wake up. But there's also Logitech's take on the popular "might not be for you" shape, minus a click, plus 75$ without p&p at minimum. It's a tough one. How does one even come up with this? How about that 25$ mouse, but it also comes with an 85$ Master 3s for when stuff needs to be done? Free shipping, of course. Straight from the country of manufacturing! Could you compare this to vertical?
Hola Jay muchas gracias por tus videos, realmente me ayudaron mucho en mi elección. Quisiera si es posible me indicaras qué estuche comprar para la Versión Largue puesto que por su tamaño no es facil conseguir uno adecuado. De antemano muchas gracias por tu respuesta
I have used amzn.to/42Oenwk the Hermit Shell Medium case. The large Evoluent mouse fits tightly but you can close the zipper. Not perfect but I haven't found anything better.
Hi I'm a left handed & I tried to find the logitech lift for left handed but i couldn't find the page... (loved the video sir btw its very interesting)
I facepalmed when you said the Eirix has a dedicated NON-PROGRAMMABLE button just for toggling rgbs lights. Sad, I was exited by the mouse and button layouts. Thanks for the review!
I have one. I have had some success. What I don't like about using it, is that it only seems to be accurate for the distance range you set it to. For instance, if I calibarate it to a post 100 feet away. If a bird flies in and around 100 feet, works great! But, the more it gets away from that distance, the more inaccurate the site becomes. Again, there are some situation where I knew exactly where the bird was going to be flying, which worked great for that, maybe I'm hoping for too much. Kind of bitter sweet. Or am I missing something, maybe I'm not using it right
I'm not sure what the issue could be. There can be lots of variables including autofocus speed and accuracy, and still not every shot comes out perfect. If I calibrate at 100ft, mine works well from about 30ft to Infinity. You might set up a test with non-moving objects to see what results you are getting, and maybe calibrate on a closer object. I am assuming a lens of 300 - 600mm at f/8 or so.
I use a 600mm for birds and would be really interested in one of these. One thing I am wondering about is if you always have to use the focus point that the sight is calibrated with? Essentially always set it to center point autofocus, or on a “zone” but there is no switching of the focus area once it is calibrated, does that make sense?
The dot sight is calibrated for 50 -100 yards, but it isn't actually controlling your camera, it is just a visual reference. You can always switch to using the camera's viewfinder at any time and change whatever settings you want.
the dit sight is an interesting piece of kit, but using my 500 f4 lens, I always keep my left eye open - that gives me a better field of view but also allows my right eye to take in the viewfinder info and keeps my head close to the camera where it needs to be for stability when and holding. It takes practice but works. The dot sight is great fro astro photography.
The LED screen will only show what the lens sees. So if you have a 400mm lens on your camera, the field of view is magnified but very narrow, making it hard to track the direction of a moving subject. The dot sight allows you to keep both eyes open while using the dot overlay and allows you to use your eyes' 180 degree field of vision to help track movement. The dot sight gives no indication of the field of view of your photo so you do need to check the viewfinder.
Merci beaucoup pour l'excellente qualité de cette vidéo. Y a-t-il d'autres marques qui font l'adaptateur avec le même principe le même mécanisme que PGD Tracker ? Il n'y a que sur l'Amazon Israélien qu'on peut le trouver. L'Amazon français ne l'a pas et AliExpress non plus.
Thanks man!. I have CTS and just got to know these mice. I saw the Logitech in Mediamarkt shop and almost bought it. My gaming mouse was a Razer, and had plenty of buttons. I noticed that my CTS gets worse after some minutes of playing, could even be the cause of it. But the thumb-buttons on the Logitech seemed just off. Then I started searching the web for the vertical mouse and that could be used in gaming. The Evoluent popped right up. Sunday I bought it on the web and today it came in. Weird looking, but what a rest for the hand and CTS. Now I am programming the buttons to work in COD.
I have a bit of interest in both firearms and photography. Something you might be interested in are pistol red dot sights. They're much smaller and are becoming more popular especially since both pistols and red dots are ideal for shorter ranges. Might be good for a lighter, more compact camera setup, and the reduced weight may be easier on the hot shoe.
@@JayPierstorff Also, I have no experience purchasing red dots, but if you find a review of one where the main complaint is that recoil knocks it out of zero but the rest of it is good, that's not going to be nearly as much of a problem on a camera. So what a shooter might consider cheap amazon shit might be fine for photos.
I just discovered your wonderful video today. So, even though my response is two years late, I thought maybe my experience might be interesting. My old Velbon tripod, which I bought in 1998, has always had this vertical mounting solution available. Cool, huh? I've just started switching over to Falcam F38 quick release bases and mounts to my small cameras. My main camera is a Sony ZV-1 Mark II, encased in a SmallRig cage. I just made a RU-vid video that describes it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--rHUnyHqO1M.html&ab_channel=kathymatsushita
This reminds me why I switched to a Single Lens Reflex camera in the first place: parallax. I know that the triangle made by the centre of the lens, the dot-sight and the bird is very small, but still. Not looking through the viewfinder is not done for me. It takes away a part of the control I need over my photographs and it's never fast enough. Instead of this, I look with both eyes open and exercise on static objects about the distance flying birds will be and centre that object in the viewfinder (right eye). While looking with both eyes open, I can imagine the object (seen with my left eye) in the viewfinder. It's there about just a little to the right and down of the centre focus point. My (Nikon D750) viewfinder also has some markers that I can use to find the bird's approximate location. Once I have it in the right place in my viewfinder, I can eventually close my left eye to shoot, but when more than one bird is flying, I often keep both my eyes open. It takes practice, but that's what it takes to learn a skill. I'm not sure if what I described here, is clear, but it's the best method I could find without taking away the camera from my eye. That's what this is all about: never take away the camera while you spot birds. They are very much faster than a Jet-fighter. I know because when I first got to photograph those air-planes with my 150-600 mm, I have practised hours on birds flying over my house. That was not effortless and I also found that smaller birds are way more unpredictable than big birds who do not abruptly change direction (especially Swallows are acrobats).
I plan to buy one and test. My problem is not with flying birds. I can usually locate them in the view finder quickly enough. My problem is finding the birds nestled in foliage. I can spot them with my naked eyes but when I bring the camera to my eye, it takes an unreasonable amount of time to locate the bird in the view finder. I’m wondering if the dot sight will help me with this.
Yes, because you can have both eyes open and are not limited to the smaller angle of view through your viewfinder. They can still be hard to see in some lighting conditons, but at least once you know where they are you can more easily aim the camera. 😀
Thanks for this, Jay. However, you don't think need to recalibrate every time; if you push the sight to the side of the hot shoe mount before clamping it up, it should return to the same alignment each time. I always push it to the left, but don't think it will make much difference.
Thanks for the nice review, especially as I was unfamiliar with the idea. But with modern mirrorless cameras, doesn't the rear LCD screen reduce the utility of the dot sight? Or do you find tracking easier than the TTL view?
It doesn't really matter which camera you are using. The difficulty is viewing the screen with a greatly reduced field of view because of the zoom or telephoto lens. So the dot sight allows you to keep both eyes open and track the bird using just the reticle (crosshairs). This way you don't look through the camera viewfinder or the LCD screen at all, except to check your zoom range. It takes some practice, but the technique can yield some excellent results.😀
