Rick's Motorsport Electrics is the leading manufacturer of high quality aftermarket replacement electrical parts in the Motorsport Industry. We created our RU-vid channel to help customers with testing electrical components, how-to's, and tutorials. These videos will help owners and technicians learn the ins and outs of electrical charging & starting components on motorcycles, ATVs, dirt bikes, UTVs, snow mobiles and personal watercraft.
Mines shows 12.8 resting, goes up to 13.5 when turned on but when i rev it up it won’t go higher than that. 2 brand new stators and 2 brand new rectifiers and a brand new battery. What could it be?
My new spring did not have an open ended clamp. When I cut the retaining wire, the hook was past the slot. While moving the hook around to the slot, SPROING!! A bird nest. Now I'm watching vids on rewinding the spring, lol.
Thanks, very helpful. Maybe a dumb question, but does the order/placement of the three wires matter when installing them into the connector? You appear to say it does - I've heard it doesn't. Can you clarify? Also, the stock connector fried on my bike after installing your stator - can you recommend a connector that can endure the heat and output? I'm tempted to go the direct connection route, but prefer the flexibility of having a connector.
On a three-phase stator like the one in the photo, it doesn't matter which AC output line from the stator goes to which AC input on the rec/reg; it just matters that all three are connected. Regarding the overheating connector issue, please email the specifics of year/make/model of your vehicle to info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com and we can look up your connectors and alternative options for them.
Why can they post a video for one of the most uncommon types of bikes instead of posting ALL of their rectifiers or at least some sports bikes and the 5 plug that comes with the connector?
On my 1982 Suzuki GS650G the volts were over 16.5 v. Not wanting to fry my harness, I ordered Rick’s r/r, and we’re now running 13.5 v to 14 v. That was five years ago and we’re still running great. There’s a lot of chatter about instead of OEM spec (like Rick’s), people modify a SH775 Series regulator/rectifier, but so far I’m happy with Rick’s.
Found this video looking for help I have a beta 300 rr racing enduro testing across the battery i am having voltage spikes of 15~16 found this out as the bike was wrecking batteries. in the attempt to repair I have replaced the regulator , stator , Cdi , complete wiring harness , battery , ground , battery leads , multimeter tool and still no joy and having the same issues ! dose anyone have any ideas what could be causing this please ? Thank you.
Great video. Very informative. What would happen if you connect a regulator/ rec for say a CB750 with exited field coils to say a KZ900? Would it work if you just use the 3 stator wires and pos and neg and just terminate the field coil wires? Just curious as I have a new RM100-100 in its box and my CB750 K4 is long gone. Thanks for the help.
My 2007 Triumph Speed Triple has an issue trying to start. I thought it was the battery so I purchased a new one but that doesn't seem to be the problem. The issue: When trying to start the bike the starter will turn over for just a second or two and then nothing and the dash lights and headlight all go black. I tested the battery when off the bike and it says 12.95 volts but after installed and this issue arises and the dash goes black the battery, while still installed shows 1.25 volts or thereabouts, I don't remember exactly but the reading goes really low. Then I disconnect the battery and it reads just fine, 12.9 volts. When I reconnect the same sequence happens again...Headlight and dash will come on and when I push the starter button the starter will only turn over for a second or two then stop and the lights all go black. I pulled the alternator rectifier and tested the diodes and they all read fine, about .542 or so on all three and reversing polarity same results. Do you think if the regulator is bad it will cause this shutting off of system and then the low volt reading when the battery is still connected? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you
I own Mid Atlantic Cycle here in southern PA and have dealt with Rick's for over 20 years now. Wonderful guys...impressive service...some of the finest electrical items on the planet. Just a great crew to deal with.
Hey rick got a question i have a 08 r6s and when the bike is running im only getting a reading of 12.5 when the bike is running but i was told it should be reading 14volts
We have a universal for the single phase Harleys - our part# 14-511H ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Universal-Hot-Shot-Rectifier-Regulator-Lithium-Compatible-14_511H
This is better but it's not a complete test. Stators can fail at high RPM and they can fail when they are hot. The best way to test is to install a voltmeter on the bike and then just ride the thing out on the highway and in traffic for an hour and if you see charging voltage drop below 14.5 or so at speed then assume either the stator or regulator has failed and replace both of them. I've owned a Kawasaki, several Hondas and now a Yamaha and the Honda and Yamaha both have had charging problems like this. With the Yamaha it's voltage would go crazy jumping all over the map from 8v to 13v after an hour of riding going 70Mph on the highway but it never did it any other time. If you REALLY want to make your stator bulletproof then rewind it yourself and use Polyimide coated magnet wire which is high temperature rated, instead of regular enamel wire and it will probably outlast the bike.
Thanks for the video, you showed me how to fix my 1984vt700c overcharging problem. However the bike stays running until I pull the jumper wire, how do I fix that?
