To help those people looking for a solution. Jack up your car, put coolant (or water) in your radiator and wait a few seconds. Look below your car towards the front and see if it’s a hose or the actual radiator. If it’s a hose, take a picture and go to an auto store. You take two clamps off the hose section to remove it. You only need pliers. Replace the old one and you’re ready to rip. My replacement hose cost $30
#2 Torque Converter issues is not a torque converter problem, it's a sport mode issue. Sure replacing the torque converter will solve the problem, but using sport mode will always keep causing it. #4 Clutch failure by friction disc wear is a transmission problem universally, not just ZF. Funny you don't even show the friction disc. But people don't seem to realize the only reason why transmission work is because of basically sand paper and liquid flow in the torque converter. Clutches lock up and spin together because of friction discs that hold them together after being compressed. Torque converters move the vehicle because of how fluid flows through its internal fans. Low fluid or low pressure and that sand paper dries up and will burn up from the spinning discs. Burnt out clutch. Low fluid and the torque converter isn't full so it's internal fan blades aren't spinning right, most of the time there is no direct connection between transmission and engine via metal on metal lock up.
My gf’s Ford Edge runs really good. But whenever I went onto the highway I kinda got in it a little bit. The car kind of paused and then didn’t want to take off and then the check engine light started flashing. But after about 30 seconds it went back off completely
Any A/c system home or car..if the filter is too dirty clogged up the evap coil.freezes up due to lack of air flow spreading out the freon..so it stays stuck to the coil.and goes nowhere so it starts freezing up and making your compressor working hard in high pressure busting up seals and gaskets .the higher the temperature the higher the pressure the lower the temperature the lower the pressure
i have a problem my blower motor is on speed 5 but after a while slows down to 3 by itself. Then after a min speeds back up to 5. would this be the resistor or blower?
I need your help. I had a 2015 Ford Explorer XLT about two weeks ago, I've been having a car issue with my car won't start but will crank up for a long time. Now before this got started, my dashboard on the touch screen popped up saying saving mode and I had to turn my car off and then restart my car but won't start. I tried to turn it over to get it started my fuel gauge gave me different mile numbers for example my current miles are 60 miles left but started to give me 80 miles which is not accurate. I thought maybe it could be the battery or the alternator. It's not. So I got my fiance to come by my workplace to jump-start my car for me, and he started my car for the first time and it started back up again then it messed with my fuel gauge giving me 100 miles instead of the current miles I have in my car. It's weird. Now when my gas gets very low nothing pops up on my screen and says Fuel is low every time my gas is low to 30 miles every time it pops up, but it hasn't popped anymore since the whole car won't start. I took it to the mechanic guy and he couldn't figure it out, but he guessed it could be the gas pump that needed to be replaced. Now I don't want to get fuck and screw because I need your opinion on it. many mechanics can tell me something different. I have a warranty for this vehicle and can't take it to the Ford dealership until June 14th. What's your thought? As of right now my vehicle is fine running pretty good crank and starts pretty well but the gas indicator signal hasn't shown it anymore since the whole issue two weeks ago.
Unfortunately, the average DIY Battery recondition ends up being waste of time. If they could be easily restored to even get a few more yrs usage. More people would do it. But, people try and fail and learn it is just less headache to pay for new one.
I test drove a new one. I have never driven such a low-powered, gutless car! I had to floor it everywhere just to get going. It seems they only have tiny engines now. Between the hamster wheel engine and the CVT that will certainly not last long, I couldn't buy a Subaru.
So, you may remember from chemistry that water has the highest specific heat of any liquid due to its hydrogen bonds. You don't need a perfect antifreeze water mixture. In addition to changing the boiling and freezing points of the coolant, antifreeze contains cleaning agents to keep your system from clogging up. So, an incorrect mixture will not be your problem. Also, if the vehicle overheats at slower speeds but does fine when going faster, then it's most likely your fan. It could also be your water pump ( which he didn't mention). If the water pump is going bad, it may or may not leak or make noise. I had one seize, and my first warning was the belt slipping and making a lot of noise just before it snapped. The big takeaway here is that it most of these parts are cheap. If you do the work yourself, it could be as cheap as $14 and 30 minutes of work.
Hello, the brake discs in my car are constantly warping. I have changed 3 sets of brake discs and they are all the same. Could this be due to the ABS module?
2006 Toyota corolla ( 240,000 miles ) No air conditioner , no heater core ( bypassed with little 1/4 " glass lab tube. enjoy the beautiful color of added tracer ) , no thermostat , NO PROBLEM whatsoever , live in Florida and run 20 miles a day ! Direct switch to radiator to prevent overheating ! Many thanks for video , okay ?
My 2002 bmw 325i act like it doesn’t wanna stop sometimes. I did a diagnostic at auto zone and it said it was this but I’m not seen the symptoms that’s stated in the video
The alternator on my truck will sometimes stop charging on start up. I'll disconnect it and reconnect it and it'll work fine. Then a few days go by and I have to go through the same process. Everything is new, even cables and fuses. Could the regulator just be bad? 2010 gm 6.2l..
I have a 2021 & I'm buying out my lease. I've noticed that the cabin temp setting doesn't seem to be working as well. Today was 90 degrees F and I had to crank it. Anyone know if that's some form of sensor issue with the temp sensor or an A/C recharge required?
Sounds like a total pos ford does make one good engine but you can’t get it in a F150 . The 7.3 liter Godzilla now I can get behind that! No over head cams 2 valves per cylinder no turbo other than that I wouldn’t waste my money on on a Ford
I have 2014 GLI ( very similar) with the 2.0T and 6 speed DSG trans. Driven 100k since 2020. I have 130k miles and the car was modified since 40k miles. original water pump/ thermostat. Timing and carbon cleaning done around 90k. Transmission is tuned(no issues). Control arms went after lowering the car around 50k. no check engine lights on the dash. Car is daily driven. It’s no Toyota Corolla but the vehicle is far from unreliable. Under normal driving habits a lot less parts would’ve been changed and some issues arose from tuning/ modifying…. That being said , if you buy a neglected car you’ll get hit with a hefty bill 😅
Blows a fuse of EFI system, disconnect pump, fuse doesn’t blow, found it-dude when it’s apart will double check if it’s the sender, my light low fuel came on at near full a few days before the fuse went. LC80; been sitting around with water in fuel from a dodgy servo.
2018 SE, none of those issue applied to our vehicle. Also, being a lower trim, means less shit. Seats are manual adjustment. No useless moonroof. Manual lifgate, etc. And isnt that the case with every manufacturer? There will always be a few units that will have something.
The "eCVT" found in the Prius & Toyota hybrids is NOTHING like the belt/chain CVT transmissions found in all the regular ICE vehicle out there. Completely different designs. eCVT is pretty good. Belt/Chain CVT not very good, especially if you do not service the transmission fluid every 20K-25K miles.
My car does shake when accelerating but when it all happened my car smelled like rotten eggs so we punched out catty and don’t smell rotten eggs anymore but the car still shakes when accelerating and has a misfire to in cylinder one and when you run codes it comes up as a MAF sensor which I completely replaced but won’t go away and we replaced spark plugs as well and nothing changed so we plan to replace coils but idk if that will fix it at all. I have a Nissan and the transmission is sealed and was checked and there were no issues wrong with my transmission. Only a misfire and those two codes. The place couldn’t tell me because Nissan you have to remove manifold and crap
My 2007 Tacoma fuel gauge won't pass the one quarter mark. I have to refill when it drops to the one quarter mark. Definitely marks up full when i fill up, but cant tell how much fuel i have left once it reaches the one quarter mark.
So many people talking about the tranny they have now. Why does noone compare them to the high mileage trannys from way back when? I've owned over 100 cars over 60 years, and have never had a problem except for shifting linkage in the 60s and 70s.
