Time to get a new dealer 🤣 Check your manual it will show what is needed. In fact, Bobcat just sent out updates to the manual (at least first my model year) to ADD in an oil change at 50 hours (it wasn't originally a requirement even though most of us do it at 50 hours anyhow).

Glad it helped!

No clue, check the measurements of the compressor and the box :)

In my case it had nothing to do with heating vs AC (cooling), in my case it is simply the condensate safety switch tripping because of clogged condensate pipe (which is more likely to happen with cooling than heating). But there could be other reasons for an E74 error as well as the thermostat is simply telling you that the power was cut off. This is just the most common reason for it.

Thank you!

Google up the manual, it explains how to change it in there. But really, save yourself the hassle and upgrade. Worth every penny :)

@@LookInto got it figured out, but seems like a poor design

Sorry, not sure if you're asking a question or saying this worked for you or what, but hope this video helps!

@@LookInto sorry I was not clear. I got Nest 3 gen thermostat which is throwing error E74 intermittently. I checked Ac drain line which is open and going to basement concrete floor. Checked wiring is all good. Issue fix once I restart furnace, not sure what could be the issue. Furnace # Lennox G61MPV. It works once I restart furnace. Any help would be appreciated! 🙏🏽

If you're talking about the condensate (drip) line, just find where it exits your house and put a wet vac on the end. You want to suck out the clog essentially. It should not end in your crawlspace, it should exit the side of your house outside somewhere. Hope that helps!

@@LookInto thank you, im going to check right now

Thank you so much for that, I love when somebody "gets it" like that. Exactly what I was going for!

Thank you!

We've been there too and after almost a year with the T35 I can say it's no longer an issue. It's a worthwhile upgrade!

@@LookInto I ordered it a few minutes after seeing your video. Thanks for sharing.

The most likely guesses would be condensation as the pipe you are insulating gets very cold when AC is running. It's like having a cold drink on a warm/humid day where condensation forms on the outside of the glass, same things happens on the pipe. Or, if it rains (or you have sprinklers) water can get in there as well, they're not air or watertight tight at all. So those reasons would be normal. A refrigerant leak could cause that as well I suppose, but seems less likely. During your annual checkup your HVAC service person would be able to find out if it was a leak.

It's usually called HVAC Pipe Insulation, often comes in 6ft lengths, you can find it here as well: amzn.to/3XGrO0L (affiliate link)

@@LookInto Hi, thanks for the reply. I believe you are referring to the copper pipe insulation. My HVAC pipe is fine. I'm referring to covering the control wire or whatever the small wire is called. What is the size of that flex loom?

7/8 flex loom at home depot or lowes

Very nice!

The mill was $5,595.00 then I added the feet so you can level it on solid ground, loading ramps, and a 10 pack of blades which brough it to $6386 plus $150 in shipping and then tax for a total of $7k delivered.

I use it on all sort of tires including ATVs as well as my Bobcat Tractor without any problems. Works great.

Yes it did. No more jamming issues at all.

Good luck, hope it all goes smoothly!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful, thank you!

I got it from Lowes (Home Depot has it as does Amazon if you prefer amzn.to/3JmUKTe). Usually comes in a 6 foot length, mine was the 1/2" diameter (of the inside hole) but it sometimes comes in 3/4" and 1" interior hole sizes as well. Hope that helps!

It's really the same as a corded compressor of this size/style. I've used a corded pancake compressor like this for spraying before and had no issues. If it's a big job running out of battery would be your only concern but as long as you have a second or third battery you could keep 1 charging while you use the others and would be good to go. Now if you're painting a car I'd get a bigger compressor, but for smaller jobs I imagine it would work well.

That system uses trans/diff fluid. If you have the same tractor as I do then you'll want 6 gallons of Bobcat trans/diff fluid (Bobcat Part 6988098). Hope that helps!

Back bencher? Sorry, you lost me :)

0:20 0:20 0:20 0:20

😅

Sorry, not sure what that means.

Not at all, super wet actually. But it IS very rotted out, so it was just a junk log for testing the mill on.

Thank you for that, glad it helped!

Thank you, glad it helped. And thanks for the suggestion!

@@LookInto ​​⁠no problem, that was more of a request than a suggestion 🙃… I know you said in the video exactly how many pieces and of what, but it would be a big help for myself if you could restate how many pieces of 2x3 and cut into what lengths

​@@alex94293 Sorry about that :) So, I was mostly making this video as a guide for the general concept of these shelves. My thinking was that others would not need the exact size of what I needed and they would just cut to fit their space. I used 8 foot 2x3s (2x4s are fine too, I just got a deal on a LOT of 2x3s). I just chopped the ends off to clean them up, you could skip that step and use size they come in. I think my 8 foot 2x3s ended up around 95in long after I cleaned up the edges. Again, I just did that for looks as the ends on my lumber was pretty rough so a quick miter cut to clean them up seemed worth it to lose 1in of shelf width. This will make more sense in just a bit... Since I was using MDF sheets which come in a 4x8 foot sheet (which actually measures 49 in x 97 in I simply cut those MDF sheets in half which leaves TWO pieces that are both 45.5in x 97in with zero waste. I then cut some 2x3s down to 21.5in and you'll want 3-5 of these PER shelf (the math here is that if my shelf depth is 24.5 you take that and subtract 3in (the thickness of the 8 foot 2x3s)). You're basically making tiny stud walls that become the shelf base. Depending on the spacing you want between shelves you'll cut the vertical supports to fit. In my case I think I did 16in spacing between shelves so I cut several 16in 2x3s. Each shelf then rests ON these 16in spacers. This makes it super strong. Note that the MDF does end up an inch or so longer than the 8 foot 2x3 (I mentioned this up above, more like 2in in my case because I trimmed up the 2x3 ends and lost a little material there) so I let that over hang on ONE side because I was screwing two units together and if the MDF overhangs on both sides you can't screw them directly together. So on the left unit all the MDF over hangs a bit on the left and on the right it all overhangs on the right. Hope that makes some sense. Towards the end of the video you can see how I have TWO 8 foot wife units together (they're screwed together) and how the MDF overhangs looks. Basically, there is no right or wrong here, it's really about how you want it to fit your space. For example, if you want 8 foot wide shelving units but only 12" deep you can get four shelves out of 1 piece of 4x8 foot MDF and then you just cut all of your other pieces as needed. One side note, I ALSO screwed these units into the wall behind them. Find the studs (concrete block in my case) and pop several long screws (etc) into them, especially at the top, so you're locking the vertical 2x3s into the wall. This adds safety so the shelves are less likely to tip over. If you're putting really heavy stuff I would use 2x4s over 2x3s and you could even add a middle vertical support to each unit (giving it 6 vertical legs/supports instead of 4).

Agreed, like most DeWalt products, it's a great tool overall but it often feels like they didn't test it very well and missed some of the obvious issues.

Thanks for that Andrew, I appreciate it! I figured if even 1 person found the video helpful or helped them realize the 50 hour service is DIY friendly it was worth it to make.

Where are the other seven!? @@LookInto

The we is my crew. So me, her, the other one, and the other one, and sometimes there is another older one. You know, "we" :) Ah, maybe someday we'll do proper introductions on a video :)

@@LookInto didn’t mean any offense

@@LookInto she looks familiar I swear I’ve seen her online before-not RU-vid

@@patriotwoodworker6092 oh now worries, none taken at all :)

Thanks, we appreciate it :)

In theory the device doesn't know what it's plugged into, so as long as your solar is outputting normal 120v AC (which it is if you can even plug your miter into) then this should slow the amp draw down and MIGHT fix your problem. That assumes your solar can generate enough power to run the miter when fully powered up though. I would first checked the watt or amp output of the solar and then the watt or amp of the miter to make sure it can provide what the miter wants. Assuming it provides enough this may work, but you could also message the guy who makes this product, his site is: www.raymondinnovations.com/products/gs10