I have an Ifootage Wildcat III coming Monday....I hated my Ronin...it had a mind of its own....the word I like about Steadicam-Glidcam is the word "control"...I am looking forward to getting going on this
I just starting using my 500D EOS again after it has been sitting in a bag for years. I grabbed a cheap Amazon tripod. Thanks for the video I'm still trying to work out how to use it.
Generally speaking, Canon's naming convention is confusing because it's not as simple as "the higher the number, the more features the camera has". The fewer the digits in the number, the higher-end the camera is. For the single-digit Canons, the lower the number, the higher end the camera is. The 1D line is the flagship - top of the line. Then you have the 5D, 6D, and 7D series. In the single-digit series, upgraded models are given the same number, but add a Mk # to it. For example, the camera that replaced the 5D was the 5D Mk II. Then the 5D Mk III, and the most recent model in this line, the 5D Mk IV. These are professional-grade cameras. One step down, and you have the xxD model cameras. Professional/enthusiast models. Starting with the 10D. In this line, they do not have a 10D Mk II or a 10D Mk III. The 20D is the successor to the 10D. The 30D is the successor to the 20D and so on. The current model in this line is the 90D, and is very likely the last in the line. Then it gets a little confusing. Pretty much everywhere but the United States, Canon continues their naming convention, and the next step down is named xxxD (three digit number). 100D, 150D, 200D, 250D, and so on. The three-digit numbers are all in the same "line". The 150D replaces the 100D. The 200D replaces the 150D, and so on. In the United States, they aren't named this way; they are called Rebels. The three-digit models are the higher-end Rebels - - and they are named T#i (T3i, T5i, and so on). Then you have the 4-digit numbers (xxxxD). These are entry-level DSLRs and again, there is one "line". Each higher number replaces the lower number model before it. And again, this is everywhere but the U.S. In the U.S. these are also called Rebels, but without the "i". So you have the T3, T5, T7, and so on. So, in a nutshell, you have : Professional : 1D series - successors are 1D MkII, MkIII, etc. 5D series - successors are 5D MkII, MkIII, etc. 7D series - successors are 7D MkII, (discontinued after Mk II) Enthusiast : XXD series - successors are XXD adding to the first digit (10D, 20D, 30D, 40D.......and current 90D) Amateur : XXXD series - successors are just higher digit XXXD models - each replacing the last. (Rebel T#i in the U.S.) Entry-Level : XXXXD series - successors are again higher numbers - each replacing the last. (Rebel T# in the U.S.) Canon very recently started releasing mirrorless cameras, and they are named RX, RXX, and RXXX. It seems to be the same sort of naming convention - except it's an R instead of a D (for "reimagined") and the letter precedes the number rather than following it (RXX instead of XXR like the "D" models). And as it was in the "D" models, it appears that the single digit models are lines of their own, as there is already an R6 Mk II. I suspect it will work like the D models. The single digit replacements will be Mk II, Mk III, etc. - while all others will just be an increase in the number. R10 is the first mirrorless in the two-digit line - I suspect it's replacement will be the R20, then R30, etc. Then there is the R### line, etc where replacement models will just increase the number rather than keep the number and add a Mk II. I realize how convoluted and confusing this is! Sorry. The bottom line is that generally speaking, the way Canon's numbering system works, the fewer the digits, the higher-end the line. For single digit models, the lower the number, the higher-end the camera. Iterations of these models are thru using the same number, but adding a Mk # to it. For all other models, two-digit numbers are all in the same line, three-digit numbers are all in the same line, and four-digit numbers are all in the same line - with the higher numbers representing later iterations in that line. One replaces the last. They aren't separate lines.
I just lost my eos 450d and I have a few lenses that I want to keep using but I have no clue what cameras can use that lenses and I want a camera with good video capabilities with high quality photos too but I’ve only got a price range of around £500-£750
So the rebel line is the American branding for the XXXD line of cameras I believe. I think they start at T1i for the 500D, and up in 50s. So T2i = 550D and so on.
Quick question: I recently bought the T Flight Stick X version of this, and the little plastic "faceplate" that sits on the joystick grip facing you, breaking the plastic seam, seems to be slightly loose. If I press on the left and right side of the platic piece it slightly wiggles left and right and it's kinda annoying. Does yours wiggle aswell?
What I am not understanding, is how are you focusing on the image, while holding it and then taking the picture more or less all at the same time? Unless you are not alone when you do it?
had windows 8 phone and couldn't upgrade... just bought a windows 10 phone and cant install the app and using this method doesn't work.. allows me to sign in to alexa.amazon but not access to the app or any app settings. This video is edited right at the point of signing in. Then jumps to the app screen. I think this is fake.
If you have an extending barrel zoom you may have to, depending on the weight shift of the lens. However for me it is only a couple turns of the adjustment nob.
Hi mate, thx for this video :) Did u get in trouble when u shooting portrait with the 50mm 1.8 open a 1.8? something the 6d focus behind the eyes and something before? Its really random on my body and would like to know if this come on my gear or all the 6d ii are like that? Thank you :)
Hi! Can't say I've had any issues with my 50mm on the 6dmk2. I don't know what autofocus settings you're using. I have it on single point. So I focus on the eyes in the middle, then tilt down to get the framing I want.
@@TripleTech ok, thx for your answer, i got to single point but 50% of the shoot arent in eyes focus at 1.8..i have to shoot at 2.8 if i want 90% shoot not blur
@@fauconpelerinvagabond3169 1.8 is a very shallow depth of field especially if you're pretty close. All I can say is make sure you're point is on the eyes. Its possible the back focus on your 50mm is slightly off, if there is an issue still
hello! just wondering how you store yours? i heard some arctis white owners are experiencing some kind of discoloration/yellow stains on their headsets. thanks :)
Hi! Mine is either laying on the desk or on a headphone stand. It doesn't really spend any time in direct sunlight. I wonder if that contributes if people are having that problem. Had it for years now, no discoloration yet.
very intresting. But what I don't understand is, if the higher the number in the xxxxD range the better the camera, why is the 4000d considered very bottom line?
