@@JeromeBrown-i5k more info! What’s the problem? Because up and down is pretty much self explanatory.

Thanks for the comment, Let me know if you need any help. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the bell!

Thanks for the encouragement, it means a lot especially from someone with lots of experience! I know the beeping is a little annoying but I always use it on a new aircraft so I can hear the movements on the sticks to make sure they match the feeling and what I’m seeing the craft do… I usually turn them off after the first few flights. Once again thanks for your comment and please Subscribe. I haven’t posted much lately I’ve been extremely busy but will be posting more when I get the chance. It’s always nice to get real feedback instead of all the idiots who never touched an RC but feel like they know something. Again, Thanks! All the best!

@@Whyusemyname Hanging out with my kids playing with RC vehicles is the whole point… maybe you shouldn’t be on RU-vid either! Then you can be all alone!

Thanks! I’m glad this helped and you got back into it. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

Honestly, I’m not sure… I mostly use Spektrum. But if you are moving up to a 450 size heli I would suggest upgrading your TX to a hobby grade radio… the X6 is good for what it is but lacking a bit and not quite a hobby grade radio.

@@DaddysRCAddiction thanks..i actually have a v450do3 with devo7 tx, but theres a problem i think with the rx because the elevator servo continues to move upward when i throttle up so the heli wont stop moving forward..i tried different servo and tx settings already..thats why im looking for a rx thats compatible with the x6

@@DaddysRCAddiction i just found the Corona GR7SF reciever, it says its compatible with futaba s-fhss tx..i'll give it a try

That’s what I would have suggested, TX settings… I have an old Devo7 too but I don’t use it. Best of luck with the receiver you found!

Thanks for the comment. I don’t believe the RX of the e120 and the e6 radio are compatible. I believe the e120 runs on an older version of Futaba FHSS protocol but the e6 radio runs on a newer version of Futaba S-FHSS. I’ve tried… the two units speak a similar but different language. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

Cool… Thanks for the comment! Let me know your thoughts after trying them out. Please Subscribe, Like and Drop by the 🔔!

I heard them called drag rudders as well… whatever the real name is I’m not sure but they do help with control of the plane… I have several others without the drag rudders and you can definitely feel the difference. Thanks for the comment and Happy flying!

Have you ever operated a drone? How many drones do you have and do you have a “LICENSE”?

@@DaddysRCAddictionworked 10 years with comercial drones and 6-7 years of building and flying fpv drones, got my license 10 years ago. license and experience aside, its just common sense to not to fly such a powerfull drone at places like this, look up drone cuts footages and get an idea of how dangerous it can be.

LOL… do you have any RCs? Sound like you don’t! You must be bored!

LoL 😆 at you,he'll, I got 78 RC from A to Z more than anyone need, should open a store 😅

@@georgiahertzler9403 LOL… I’m the same… I think I have around 200 + RCs… almost every kind imaginable… I’m not a fan boy of any one brand, some are better than others and it all come down to $$ at the end of the day… you get what you pay for. So calm down and find the good in all brands.

Explain your comment

Yes the 160 can be switched while flying and you have to land to switch back… the XK can not be switched while flying, you have to choose 6G or 3D before takeoff! As far as I know there is no way around that with the X6 or E6, which are essentially the same TX. For some reason the 160 has more negative pitch in 6G mode, This needs to be fix or you will have very hard landings in 6G mode… check out my review on the e160… also check out my tutorial on the e160 and it’sTX… Also you should soften the parameters around mid stick so landings are more controllable no matter which mode you’re in. Alternatively, if you don’t mind a little investment you can install a Spektrum satellite receiver and have complete control in the air and on the ground… this will only work with the e160 not the XK… it will also work with e150 (I have done that with mine)… the e180… I plan to do that with mine, the trex 150… I’ve done that with mine and any other RX that has a port for a satellite receiver. This can be done with Futaba as well. Let me know if you plan to switch because there is a bit of a procedure to activate the satellite receivers.

@@DaddysRCAddiction Thanks you! I own a e160 already, should’ve clarified. Good to know neither have a safe “bail out” mode. I was contemplating the xk110 assuming it has such a feature. Thank you!!

LOL… The RC Hunt😂… Never thought about it that way. My son and I have such a good time making theses videos! Thanks so much for the comment!!! Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

2s 350-600 mah is recommended… obviously different batteries will require a slightly different location to get the correct CG… the esc on mine is rated for 2-3s… I think in the video I used a 3s 500mah. Have fun!

i’ve owned the piaget II for a year and it can run 3s i run mine at 600 and it changes the performance a lot compared to the 2s batts the esc can handle 3s

@@leadlean yes, that’s why I just went straight to 3s for more power. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

NICE GIFT! Well if it is the same as mine it should have 2 slits on the lower fuselage in front of the wings for a velcro strap(to hold the battery)... just about center of the slits should be a good starting point to find your aircrafts CG... it's roughly 114mm back from the nose... all airplanes are slightly different so play with it a bit... This planes handles great, you will enjoy it!!!

I knew it too! LOL… but I couldn’t get the gear so I gave it a shot! Thanks for the comment. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

No… I didn’t want to limit my turn radius so I left them open

Thanks for the comment! I’m not sure if you can use the TX with accuRC 2… I have an older flight sim that I haven’t used in 5 years… I do most my learning in the air but that has high consequences:( You will love this heli! Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

@@DaddysRCAddiction I appreciate the response. I'm scouring the internet for people who have connected it to their PC. Not having much luck. Guess I'll find out when it arrives.

I never had to reset the E6 and the manual is no help… I’ll try to see if I can figure it out. This is a post to someone with the same issue… The following info is from the manual for the XK X6 which is basically the same transmitter with a slightly different body. The e6 manual does not give any instructions on restoring factory settings. Try the following… Hold down the MODE and END buttons and then turn on the TX The display should show the letters CC… once the CC appears it should take about 5 seconds to restore factory settings. NOTE: I think you have to release the mode and end button after you turn on the TX. If that doesn’t work try holding the mode and end buttons down even after you have turned on the TX. Please let me know if this works as I have never reset the X6 or the e6. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!!!

@@DaddysRCAddiction Thanks for the response. This wont work as I discovered holding down just mode and powering on goes to Mode1/Mode2 toggle mode. So holding down Mode and End and powering does nothing different. No CC letters coming its just going into Mode toggle mode. Please look out how to reset and help me. I havent got any positive responses from anyone so far :(

@@DAILYTECHLIFE What did you do that messed up your TX? Maybe I can help you correct it. Explain what you did and the effect it is having on your heli.

@@DaddysRCAddiction I purchased the RTF version, enjoyed flying 5 months. One day mid flight the tail motor started twitching and I crashed. Someone suggested tail motors going bad in the E200 is common. So I ordered new tail motor from Banggood and replaced it. Issue still persisted. Then I was told it must be the control board. So I ordered new control board and replaced it as well. Since it was a new board I had to rebind it to the stock Eachine E6 transmitter. First try to fly after that in normal 6G mode after I spooled up at around 40% throttle, standing on the ground the heli pitched forward bringing the tail up and I quickly enabled throttle cut. No damages luckily. Next I thought maybe the radio stick calibration needs to be redone. Trying to do so I realized the input bars on the radio display are continuously going up and down without me touching the sticks. And when I power up the heli with throttle cut on the swash plate keeps vibrating randomly. I wanted to do a radio reset. But the manual even though has a reset section has no instructions on how to actually reset the radio. There's nothing about it in Google or RU-vid. Even the radio stick calibration instructions are not clear and what I follow from the manual is not working. Also I doubt if I have the servo cables correctly connected to ch1 ch2 ch3 of the board cause there is no diagram or information in the manual or Google. Looking from the tail I connected 1st servo to ch1, right servo to ch2 and left servo to ch3. I am an amateur and now completely lost. I was so sure I would be flying today. Wasted 6 hours but have no solution. I had to wait months to get the new board and now this happened. I know this might be a small issue with an amateur. But I really forward if someone can help me. It's a expensive purchase for me and I don't want to get discouraged just after 7months getting into this hobby.

@@DAILYTECHLIFE That heli isn’t cheap! So let’s start with the servos… typical when servos twitch around and make the swash plate move without any stick input, it usually means the servo/servos are bad or have stripped gears. With blades off and throttle cut on try moving the servos with the sticks very very slowly, look closely at each servo and notice if the movement is smooth or jumpy/twitchy, also you can check at this point if your servos are connected to the right board plug… if the servo doesn’t move the way it should then you may have the plugs crossed. If you’ve crashed 1 time or more you could have bad servos. For the board… when it pitch forward the last time you tried to fly… did you make certain that the heli was on a flat surface when you plugged the battery in and “very important” you let the system initialize without the heli moving… usually indicated by beeps. The gyro on the board needs to know what level is and it learns this when you first plug in the battery… some boards Will remember this info but some boards need to start flat without movement every time you plug in the battery. As for the input bars moving on the radio without your input definitely sounds like the sticks need to be calibrated… but you said the instructions for calibrating didn’t work right? Try removing the batteries from the TX for a few minutes the check the sticks again… if everything looks good it’s a miracle but if not try the calibration again… I know you will have to decode the chiglish in the manual. OK looking at the manual now and I’ve decoded the chiglish, try this… 1. Hold rudder trim button to the right and turn on the TX… you will enter calibration mode… the whole display will be lit up and you will hear a few beeps play. 2. Move both sticks up and down… side to side and in complete circles then return the sticks to the center position. 3. Push the rudder trim to the right… this will exit calibration mode. 4. Move throttle stick to lowest position this will complete the calibration. Let me know if this works. It worked on my TX

The following info is from the manual for the XK X6 which is basically the same transmitter with a slightly different body. The e6 manual does not give any instructions on restoring factory settings. Try the following… Hold down the MODE and END buttons and then turn on the TX The display should show the letters CC… once the CC appears it should take about 5 seconds to restore factory settings. NOTE: I think you have to release the mode and end button after you turn on the TX. If that doesn’t work try holding the mode and end buttons down even after you have turned on the TX. Please let me know if this works as I have never reset the X6 or the e6. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!!!

@@DaddysRCAddiction Thank you for your response! Anyway, I have a X6 transmitter and have reset it to factory settings on more than one occasion, doing like you suggested for the e6. When I tried it on the e6, it beeped a few times and changed into mode 1. I repeated the procedure and it swapped me back into mode 2......whew!! It all started when I was playing around with the trim buttons, which as you know, is a no-no for CP helis. In doing so, my E120s started spinning wildly as if the tail motor had died, which it hadn't. The only cure for that was to select a new model and redo the T and P curves to my liking. Oh well such is life. Thanks again.

@@ccbusa05 it was worth a try… there has to be a way… I have put all my models(XK and Eachine) on the XK Radios, they are bigger and feel better in my hands. Thanks for the sub

Thanks! when I bought mine it was 200 or 250, I can’t remember now but I think the Huina is all metal so in that respect it is better… and if the price is just about the same I would choose the Huina. Have Fun… Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

Hey Steve, Thanks for the comment. So, that is a tricky question. You mentioned that you have already tamed yours down a bit so I’m assuming you are look to do basic flying or mild sport/3D flying. You can set your dual rates so that you can switch from mild to more aggressive flying with a flip of a switch(best of both worlds). Check out these vids where I go over my settings with the X6 and the e6… ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6wA008mfDRQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kMf72lFo__M.html Everyone has their own flying style so you will want to tweak the settings to match your own tendencies. For example, in most situations a like very little expo so this may be something you want to tweak. Best of luck! Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

It seems obvious that you didn’t watch the video… please watch before making comments.

Quad FPV in the video is how it comes out of the box… no props in view.

@@DaddysRCAddiction thanks!!!

Nice… did you grease the metal gears? I’m assuming you installed the high speed motor as well… if not that is a must do!

@@DaddysRCAddiction …hi...yes, I greased them up. I am running the Power Wagon as a crawler, so no need for the high speed motor :-)

I’m assuming you changed the plastic gears to metal… if so, some of the gears need to be ground down a little so that they don’t bind… did you watch the whole vid… I explain this and show where you need to grind the gears down. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

@@DaddysRCAddiction admittedly I was listening at work so that's on me.. I'll get out my calipers out and have a look appreciate that you replied mate it's been driving me mental

Ok thanks heaps mate I've made progress finally . So I have the steering the right direction haha. the hi speeds working neutral working and low... However I have one or two small things going on... In reverse I have waaay more torque and it cuts the power.. which is making me think low wasn't skipping it was cutting out aswell which it was... It came with the c2052 battery they recommend for the hi speed. I'm wondering if it's an ESC issue on my end as it only cuts it in low and at full speed in reverse

@Daddy's RC Addiction it was slightly wider/higher then the original gears but turning over the top gear with no notching had a slightly flat side and the other was slightly rounded so that was making a difference aswell 👍

@@daniel-is6zf sounds like you’re moving in the right direction… maybe you should reach out to the manufacturer if you think you may an esc issue… they should send you a new esc.

The V2 TX has some cool features but I like the original. It will still be fun in any case!!! Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!!!

Well I’m not exactly sure what version I have at this point . My transmitter does not have the thumb button that could be used for shifting the 2 speed. And the receiver doesn’t have any additional plug ins for another servo for rear steering or even additional lights.

@@kevincasey6876 It’s a bit frustrating when manufacturers start changing things to maximize profit or because of available resources… does the manual clear up these details?

The manual and transmitter says V2 .

I don’t understand your comment… please explain

Hey Mart, The suspension from the SCX24 do NOT directly fit the CR24. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the BELL!

I use welders foam safe glue or Beacon foam tac glue… Sometimes the instructions will suggest a thin or medium CA and an activator but I like the flexibility and versatility of an all foam safe glue like the ones I mentioned above. However you do have to wait for it to dry. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!!!

On the X6 tx which is basically the same as the E6 you can switch back to factory settings… I have the process written down at home but I’m not home at the moment. I’ll try to send it to you later. Alternatively, there are 10 different models you can set on the E6 TX… sometimes the manufacturer programs the same factory settings on some of the other model memory’s. Please Subscribe, Like And Ding the 🔔!

@@DaddysRCAddiction Thank you.

@@michaelhawkinson4532 Starting with the TX off hold down the MODE and BACK button then turn on the TX while holding those buttons down for about 5 seconds... the display should read CC... then the display should switch to the normal view and your TX should have the factory settings restored. Hope this helps!

I’m assuming your using the E6 or X6 TX… I don’t have an OMP so I’m not sure how to set it up… I assume it’s much like the Eachine direct drive… the Eachine and XK helis don’t have a “rescue mode” but if you flip the 6G switch they might flip back to stability mode… I’m not sure I have never tried it. But this can be tested on the bench… make sure to take your blades off. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

It’s a really nice first RC! It’s pretty good out of the box but can be better with some upgrades. You will have lots of fun with it no matter what you decide to do with it. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!

Thanks! Sooo much more fun with the upgrades!!! Yes the grinding down did the trick… thanks for the heads up on that one!!! I was thinking about ordering the Metal Y shape Front/Rear Axle Connecting Rod but it looks like it comes with a plastic connector, I feel like that will be a major weak point and defeat the purpose… so I think I’m going to just get the metal shafts and leave the rest plastic… hopefully the flex of the plastic holds up. Now my son and I have to build a mini Monster truck course… Any ideas for it?

Nice video with lots of good tips! Thanks!

@@QuinnsRC Hey Quinn, Thanks for the comment! I was thinking about getting the Rock Van… I have a couple of older CR18s… the van body is pretty unique and the portals a great change… how has it preformed for you? Seems like it will be very similar to the FMS crawler… the portals look almost the same as on the FMS.

@@DaddysRCAddiction I think the plastic parts on the Max Smasher are generally pretty forgiving, so no need to go with any metal rods or links unless you're planning to change out a lot more to metal as well - starting with aluminum axle housings. But the metal drive shafts should be okay. Get the motor heat sink too if it's in stock. For the course, you can always use cardboard to make more jumps and obstacles. :)

@@DaddysRCAddiction It's more top-heavy than the FMS Power Wagon, actually! It's also not as fast. But it's still a cool truck. I'm not a competitive crawler, so my standards aren't too high. I've added metal transmission gears and drive shafts; I have brass hexes waiting to go on; that'll be my next video, and hopefully will help with the tipsies. Oh, oil filled shocks are going on, too which should also help. I totally recommend!

I’ve only bond XK and Eachine models to the X6 tx… the FC(flight controller) on most of their helis are very similar so they work well together… I’m not sure how well the X6 will work with other brands with S-SHSS… in theory it should work with no issues and I don’t believe you can reassign the channels on the X6! The FC is where the 6G and the 3D functions are controlled, the x6 tx switches only act as toggles for the onboard settings in the FC… so if the heli you buy does not have 6G built into the FC you will not have 6G just by binding to the X6… you may have already known this! The 6G(self leveling) and 3D(ACRO) is usually built into the FC in most models now and the radio is more to control the parameters of the onboard FC. The X6 is a great beginner radio but lacks the programming parameters that you will want and need down the road as you get better. If you like the hobby and plan to buy more helis in the future I would suggest you figure out what protocol, S-FHSS, Spektrum etc is going to align with your future purchases… I personally have Spectrum TX, S-FHSS, FHSS of all sorts and a Jumper(Mutli-Protocol TX)… With the Jumper and other Multi protocol radios you can bind almost any protocol to it… you may need to buy a module along with the radio to have access to all protocols. I guess what I’m saying is… upgrading to a better radio with more options to adjust parameters is the best thing to do… just do your research first so you buy a radio that works for you far into the future. Please Subscribe, Like and Ding the 🔔!!!