Hello Would you be so kind as to give me some advice? I have a Kenwood TS 530s with the following symptoms: In RX: heater=off, Reception is correct. heater=on, Reception is lost. In TX: Selector in SSB: IP readings: reading 0 Even negative, ALC readings: reading 0 Even negative, All components of the final step plate are in good condition. Could it be a valve12BY7a problem? or the electronics of its periphery? Thank you.
Chris have a look at this site Kenwood TS520 may help your HV should be 800Volt . Have look at this site : Kenwood TS520 Part 1 of 4 Introduction and Initial Assessment Cheers mate de Dennis vk4oc. Enjoy your videos.
I had done that already but should have showed it during the clip for completeness. I'm going to change over trimmer caps on the bands that there is no RX- it's very fiddly crowded board
I've sold it on to a country based operator with ample room and a good tower. Quite a few people have watched the clip and asked for plans, photos also
I'd love one of these old work-horses ! But how do you know the exact frequency of operation ? I assume you've got kind of external counter connected ?
My TS-530S became a bit unresponsive when I try to TUNE it, what do I need to look at ? I know I replaced the tubes few years ago thank you for your help 73 de KH2ZZ
Hi Christopher, I have the same problem with my TS-430S that you show at 2:10 where the AM station stays on even when you rotate the VFO and change frequency. Did you ever find a solution? Thanks in advance. Bob
Good evening. Can you clarify what was the hot and broken IC? I followed all the videos but it goes from testing pll integrated circuits to perfect working. Thank you
It was IC2 of the PLL. I had a lot of help on Groups IO to go through and get the radio working. It's a long thread but groups.io/g/Amateur-repairs/topic/ts_430s_starting_on_a/75165438?p=Created,,,20,1,0,0 The 430S is still working well and I had it hooked up to a PS430S in the last couple of weeks- having the matching radio and power supply is very pleasing
Those electrolytic capacitors are all way past their designed life. Looking at them is of absolutely no use. Replace all electrolytic capacitors as a rule on anything over 35 years service and ideally after 15 years. No ifs or buts. Then power resistors and then all high voltage caps.
Hi Christopher I bought that radio. Its been wonderful I use it every day. I had added a FRA-7700 antenna but I use it as antenna amplifier and have fitted a bnc socket to the rear. Also a FRV-7700 VHF converter so I have air band. I live close to Archerfield airport. I have noticed that there are a few mods done. The main tuning control has a 6 to 1 reduction drive fitted makes tuning so nice but it can be a little hard work at times. I looked at another FRG-7 it was 10 turns to cover 1 mhz mine is 60. Also the fine tune control range is only maybe 2 khz I think stock is 7 or 8 khz. Did you do the mods ? Do you know if anything else has been done. Thanks. davea696@gmail.com Dave Anderson
the only physical component I had to change was an IC on PLL board - I was taking voltage measurements off the various pins but the only instrument I really needed in the end was a finger as it was very hot to touch! A little tweaking after the changeover and it was back in operation. The lack of display is caused by the PLL being out of lock. I was fortunate to have great help from fellows on Groups IO who directed me as to what to check next. I'm just starting on a TS-530S repair so more clips to come
@@daveschmidt132 I feared dry joints could be an issue as they do occur with this model. It wasn't the case for this radio, The IC and disconnected cable were the first matter to address
Check VCO 1, 2, 3 ABCD voltages are correct. Also master frequency oscillator. There are 5 or 6 clips showing stages of this project and yes I did get the PLL to lock which gave me full freq display and that was the main issue in this particular radio.
Hola cristofer....soy de argentina...tengo esta maravilla hace muy poco tiempo....podrias alludarme a encontrar su falla lo conecte al reves en su alimentacion y se me quemo no prende nada solo un ruido muy agudo por el spiker
I've had a Lafayette VTVM and I've tried to fix it, but it was impossible. The needle went to the maximum and stayed. I moved all rheostats, changed all resistors, cleaned the movement, even I changed the tubes. Nothing. It went to the trash. I still keep some of their parts, but it gained the nickname La-Fail-ette. Then I moved to a Heathkit IM-18 and it all went better.
Allen--W7GIF put me onto a winner He had found the PCB mounted trimpots to be low quality and failure prone so suggested exercise these. I went over all the easily accessible pots, some had never been moved, so I broke the seal and moved them around and back to the position they were set. problem remained. On the distribution board there was a trimmer i couldn’t get a screwdriver to, but when i touched and wriggled it, i was able to get the crackling- distortion to appear. I carefully exercised it and blasted with contact cleaner. It is the 10.5v set R114 and since then all RX crackling has gone & TX audio is distortion free with good output reports. After a few days now, no re-occurrence of the fault.
Recently I owned this meter. Unfortunately, it seems unable to work properly and I suspect it was repaired and modified. I need the wiring diagram in order to bring it back to the original condition. Can someone help me? Many thanks.
Simple, you wouldn't be able to make out the readings and small variations on the meter from a distance and I described which control was used for each step,
Having to make small adjustments from one range to another is normal for an analog meter. I hope you enjoy using the meter, they are very useful. It is my analog meters quite a lot. Sometimes a digital meter will not lock onto the same result in a circuit, but when I use my analog meter I can see what the result is and why the digital meter was unable to give me a result.
C7, C8 and L1 (the small choke at the base of the large choke) should always be replaced on these radios. The 3kv disc capacitors take a lot of heat and abuse in the PA cage. C7 should be upgraded to a mini 10kv .001 uf doorknob cap. It's a great upgrade to the PA cage. Get the single doorknob cap and avoid running several smaller caps in parallel. Available here: www.hybridrestore.com/parts/#fcrk Lots of info here as well: www.k4eaa.com Ken, K4EAA is THE go-to guru on these radios. He sells a lot of reproduction restoration parts, too. Also, check the 3kv disc caps on the load wafers of the band switch directly under the PA cage. A little contact cleaner on the PA cage band switch is always a good idea, too.
What is the purpose of the small choke I at the bottom of the larger choke? Real sing it will give additional choking at the power supply feed point; is it being used as a fuse to protect the larger (more expensive RFC)?
