Good go man! You got all the hard stuff. On the deploy bag, consider (if u can pack the chute short enough) cutting off the flap and just folding the bag in half when u pack it in (with the fold crease towards the hot stuff)
Placed an order with Featherweight almost a week ago and have gotten no information on when it will be shipped. Emails have gone unanswered. Drop $400 for a product I expect an answer in a timely manner. Going to cancel the order after two weeks and let the bank go after the purchase amount on my credit card. Paid for 2 day shipping and needed it for a launch in 2 weeks. Doesn’t seem like a solid company…
Toward the end of the video, you mentioned there are other model rocket cameras available. Could you please include some links to other options that you would recommend. Thanks in advance!
Hello, I am new to 3D printing and I wanted to know if with only the 2023-car-model.stp model it is only necessary because I want to send it to be printed by a company online, thank you very much in advance
I didn't know it was this flooded now I'm in the last session and it's sad every year see it flood more and more 😢. Thanks for publishing awesome content like this.
Just bought the tracker and the capsule. I am thinking that adding a JST connector right at the battery would be useful, allowing the battery to be disconnected without opening the tracker part of the capsule. Admittedly, with the new switch slot, this might be redundant. I will also probably put a piece of tape over the switch slot during flight to keep ejection gasses out of the capsule.
can you show how you connect the rrc3 with pc? i used the comm pins for connect rrc3 to pc with usb-ttl. I can't see the rrc3 connection on mDACS. So, i can't programm it.
Is it recommended to just use a flux infused solder or could you use a tube of flux to help handle the heat and have better flow when soldering the more sensitive pads, like the RF module and the radio?
Just my opinion here... The camera rocks, the mount is janky and simply doest hold up to midpower thrust. You can permenently mount it with stronger tape but still pretty dubious. Pros with mid power is your rocket doesn’t spin with it installed. Flying it on Estes Star Orbiter. 😊
Great work! Looking to build something like this for our new club. I’d like to see a follow up video of this in use with things you’d change, things you love, etc.
Not bad. You will learn tho, that the devil is in the details. Measurements matter, detail matters, especially if you want a good looking rocket. Yes, I definitely want to see you build this out. I hope it turns out great and that you fly it often. I want to get my lvl 1 and 2 certification this year and am about to start the builds for both. Yes. It is my plan to have a bigger rocket for each lvl.
Great video! I agree about the cellulose fiber. I use it regardless of my other protection being used. Cheap and lightweight insurance!!! I had never seen the deployment bag before. Thanks for showing that one. I’ve been testing an electronic chute release unit called the ACE that currently fits in BT-60 rockets, but hopefully will offer different sizes as well. It releases the chute mechanically as opposed to a combustion charge saving it from potential burns. Great tutorial and thanks for producing this video!
This is my first time trying to print an Open RC Car, so with the files you listed the 2023 ones seem just cosmetic correct to the car shown in the video. The Other Files listed (2017) are the ones needed to operate the actual car correct? (Without electronics motor etc..) Which parts would I print out? Should I print all of the Original Noree Parts then go to the IPL 2023 Parts list and go from there? Any information would be helpful!
great video :) i am lvl 2 as well. For my L3, its gonna be stupid simple, a basic cardboard airframe with lots of drag. No need for it to go super high. If it hits a mile, im happy. Im willing to bet we could get a 3 inch cardboard airframe, lvl 3 rocket, to hit 20,000 feet no issue. actually, let me think about this... Maybe the cardboard wont work for an L3. the inside paper that holds the motor mount, might tear, even with good epoxy. Unless i put some wood screws into it from the side.... But then that might weaken it by introducing a hole and then could zipper the rocket... oh man. now im up for the challenge to do a L3 with a cardboard tube.
I recently had a late ejection and the rocket was in "nose over" configuration. The chute deployed "forward" and opened, but trailing body tube drove right into it causing it to collapse and let to the demise of my rocket. I prefer "At Apogee", as it helps separate the parts and no on-coming wind to drive the parts back towards one another. Great video and it gets the mind juices flowing!
Surprised you would recommend a scratch build fiberglass rocket for lvl 1 cert. I could see maybe for your level 2, but I'd point people to a 3 or 4" kit rocket. 🚀🌳
Great content. I was having a very difficult time with the beeper programming. Turns out a friend had the dongle that I could use. Thanks for such an informative and helpful video. You made my NASA Student launch payload deployer work.
Just now saw this video...why not take an Estes or other camera's 'guts' and put it in a tube that just 'plugs into' a standard rocket tube (BT-60, etc) with access to the SD card when you take this small tube out....but for now why not print your existing covers in orange and not grey.
Understand about the gray color, but no one will paint over it. We loose cameras all the time because they're painted black....how ridiculous. Again, why not make a complete camera kit that fits into a tube that doesn't stick out and produce drag...and who needs WiFi or touch screens....just an SD card is enough. The market is there for it.
I was wondering if the small lip made on the side that is direct to the build plate affecting the roll at all. I saw some people print them on removable platforms that may make a more accurate dice but I'm not sure.
