My name is Ionut Fedaceag and i'm working as an IT Technician for over fifteen years and for almost ten years i've got my own firm and i'm working alone so the time is extremely limited.
I'm not a programmer, but to solve certain problems that others can't or won't solve, i learned on my own how to program atmel microcontrollers.
I always like to do projects that are practical, simple to implement and scalable, thats way this channel it's called THINK SMALL as in using the simple arduino to build the projects and BUILD BIG so we can scale up the project to suite all our needs.
Hope you like the projects on this channel and if you do, please support it by liking, sharing and subscribing.
5:13 Imagine driving around with that full red DRL animation running. Looks like your car is boot looping haha. I understand thats not how you would use it ofc.
@IonutFedaceag i try upload ur code to arduino my nano..... it keeps doing running sign (hazard) every 3 sec...... i change nothing from ur code..... where di i go wrong ???? thanks
Nice, but I did not get anything to work . __attribute__((always_inline)) inline static uint8_t adjust(register uint8_t data) { return ((data>>1) | 0x80) + ((data && (data<254)) & 0x01); }
Your project is great. It is exactly what I want to do. The only difference is that I do not want the strip to sweep. I want to tun the whole strip red,green,blue solid respectively. switching between each color with button 1. How do you modify your code to do that?
hi, this is a great project I were to watch, I have read the code and try to do it for my car. Can Please help to guide me how I can change the color of DRL for LED trip. And one more thing that your code was uploaded, the color is red instead of white color as your video. Thanks you very much
Hello, I would like to know how to contact you, I would like to do this, but in my car, but with more animations, and I would like to know the value for programming.
the issue is that the turn signals are not steady signal as you showed in your demo. the turn signal are like a square wave which will affect the leds when there is a brake or hazard with brake . have you tested this on a car?
Salut eu am un 70 Mai lite si de o perioada am observat ca nu imi mai vede modulul gps nu stiu daca modelul meu are ADAS. Camera o am cam de vreo 3 ani. trebuie sa desfac modului gps?? multumesc!
Incredible video and explanation, Thanks! My son asked me to build him this circuit for his car. I build another of your projects (an easier one) to test my abbilities and see if i can do it, it worked! Now i want to build this circuit but use 4 16 bit neopixel rings instead of stripe. It worked on the other project and the only downside was that all rings rotate in a clockwise direction. Would be cool to have the opposite side turn counter-clockwise. Do you happen to have that code you can share with me? Thanks again and a great job you do there. BTW i am very bad at coding and know almost nothing about it 🙂
Hello. DUE has I/O pins at 3.3, you will need 3.3 to 5 level shifter for the leds digital control pin. In other words, you ar complicating yourself with DUE.
Thanks for this information. After 3yrs am here to learn and i want to do this for my car. Is it ok if you can give me more help in my mailbox 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Well, the depends on car model if it has light bulb detection or not. You can use small 12v relays for control or optocouplers with dedicated resistors to trick the computer that it has a goo light bulb... Like this... www.mk-led.hr/en/shop/philips-canbus-5w-ponistivaci-greske-za-led-zarulje/
@@IonutFedaceag i also use those, resistors, same as to use when changing to led? So CAN is okay, but it seems my attiny does not like being powered on and off alle the time due to the turn signal relay. sequency runs fine for a few loops, than it is missing steps, so led's are not sequal anymore, it jumps. So on the bench it works, in the car i have the problems
That's why I said it depends on the car model... it's very tricky to get it right for all. From what you are seeing i presume that you don't have separate power for the arduino and you are powering it from the signals wires, correct ?
@@IonutFedaceag yes, i power it with the wires that normally would power the bulp. i program the attiny and than place it on a socket on the print. print also had the leds and plus into the lamp housing. In that scenario you just change the bulp to a pcb
At the beginning of each animations in the code you have comments that specify which animation and button corresponds and don't forget about settings variables from the top for wanted animation that are also commented.
This is perfect... I love it... =) There is just One other function i would love to have with this... and that is the possibillity to have the turn signals flash like warninglights... Strobe funktion so to speak.... and to be able to switch between colors and patterns on that.... Like another mode for the nightrider light..=) im gonna try this out on my motorcycle... =)
Hello Ionut! I like your project and I plan to build it, but I have a questions: Can I use SK6812 (RGBCW) neopixel led strip for this project? If yes what should be changed in the code? Can you help me out please, with the code update for SK6812? Thank you for your answer in advance!
Assuming the colour order of your LEDs is the same as the WS2812B then this should work for you. The WS2812B led colour order is GRB, not RGB. I do believe that the lights you're using are the upgraded version of WS2812b anyway. So I would guess the sketch would work for you. If not then these lines would need to be changed from FastLED.addLeds<NEOPIXEL, 13> to FastLED.addLeds<SK6812, 13>. the 13 is the GPIO pin you have the array attached to BTW.
Hey there. I think it's a very cool project have created, I'd like to hear if you could integrate the animations from this vid... ru-vid.com6UuNhroMGZs?feature=share I'm mostly thinking of the start up sequence...😊
Don't it depends on NRF24L01 library if it has delay or not, but i think that it's overkill... You can simply use some rf emitter and receiver for that, like H34A and LR45A, i think they will be more suited for battery power jacket.
I think that is because your pull down resistor are not where they should be and that is near the controller... the signal wires are picking up electrical noise, they build up in the wire and trigger the input. For small signals is best to use twisted cables...
@@IonutFedaceag I think after adding 1k series resistor on the brake activated reed switch to limit the capacitor inrush current and stop the reed switches from welding together the glitching went away. Also added some circuit with mosfet, diodes and schotky diodes to reduce the standby current to zero which automatically wakes up the USB power bank upon activating any input (using it on a bicycle).
@@IonutFedaceag For audio signal just using another reed switch with some coil with 50 turns of 0.4 mm2 wire on it as a current detector supplying 555 timer and a 50 ohm buzzer which simulates mechanical relay sound which at the same time acts as an indicator for correct operation.
And then a hero comes along With the programming strength to carry on and you cast your fears aside cause you know you can survive......... ohhhhhhhhhh so when you feel like hope is gone Come to you tube when you're strong and you'll finally see the truth THAT THE PROGRAMMING SKILLS LIES IN YOU LOL
Correct me if i'm wrong xxtea is NOT a rolling code algorithm, its an encryption , same data with same key , will give you the same encrypted data every time thus should not be used with remote controls. am i right ?
Yes you are correct, xxtea is NOT a rolling code algorithm, its an encryption ! But if you add a number, which increments in the data before the encryption with every button press and you store that number in the eeprom, you have yourself a rolling code with encryption... And with unsigned long data type you have 4,294,967,295.
