Wonderful video about my favorite CAD program! There is one feature that I NEVER see anyone talking about or using in tutorial videos, and it would be VERY useful for these videos, and for every user in general. This might be the MOST useful feature of this wonderful program. Put your cursor just to the right of any digit, press and hold ALT and then press up arrow to increase that digit or down arrow to decrease. Previews will update instantly, and it makes fine adjustment SOOOO simple. If you need more precision, ALT-right will add decimal places to the number, and you will then adjust THAT digit up or down instead. ALT-left works just the way you'd think it would. This would make doing those adjustments you had to do to match up the edges MUCH easier and faster. Try it, you'll soon come to depend on it!
@@iqless I have another cool tip which can save a LOT of typing too if you want to hear about it. The instructions for this one are quite a bit longer, so I could send you an email if you give me an address, or try to post it here. It's to do with the right-click pop-up menu 'Insert Template' function, and how to create your own blocks of code to use as templates. You can use it to insert anything you want, including something like translate() rotate() cube() all in one go.
You can tweak it in OpenScad I made a video answering your question ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ignow3kcpKg.htmlsi=aw-dGW-aia9LGQUU And if you just want a pot with no drain I uploaded a version here www.printables.com/model/942200-square-pot-no-drain
The fluke is only more accurate if you have the emissivity set correctly for what you are trying to measure and the same is probably true of the generic, so I can't conclude anything much based on your video for failing to do this, except to conclude that out of the box, the fluke seems more accurate at translucent cold things. ;)
They get "beat up a little bit"? What on earth are you doing with them? The main thing is will they survive battery changes, and will the ones with the printing on the rubber buttons, have that printing wear off. I don't beat my equipment up per se, but I admit that i may not always wash my hands and/or wear soft gloves, so eventually printed-on rubber buttons do have their markings wear off which is really, REALLY annoying because it didn't have to happen, would have been so simple for them to mold that into the plastic next to the button too or just just use hard plastic buttons with that molded in (not still printed on, or else there was no point).
Yeah it can speed things up a bit. Also I have found the nightly builds render much much faster So I imagine once they release the next version of OpenScad it won't be much of a help except in very complex designs.
It Fusion 360 a great 3D cad program from Autodesk It can be used for free for educational purposes see www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal And thanks for the compliment. I thought it was a good closing line :) Seeing how I am IQ Less :)
While this doesn't really apply here, did you know that you can set a lower preview resolution than when you render? $fn = $preview ? 6 : 128; linear_extrude(4){ circle(d=10); } Also, with the nightly builds they added measure distance and measure angle. This is under Design on the menu and the scene has to be rendered.
Awesome work man ive been looking for a good place to learn more about openscad and i finally found your channel. Cant wait to see what you work on next.
@@Eng586 You're welcome! I was struggling with this too, it's surprising that this issue isn't well documented on the internet. Glad my comment helped!
I havent done any maintainence on my Prusa Mk2 since 2018 and it prints beautifully every day. I tell a lie, I greased the linear bearings last week. Thats it though.
This Prusa company plays dirty. It's interesting to hear about what setting problems your account had. I bought a new board because my mk3 printer quit printing after about 10 pieces. The new board introduced a new set of problems. I'm fed up with prusa.
Wish I could locate an actual Peruvian Elongated Skull stl file… Not one of the Fake ones or a “Board Binding” Victim, but one based on /Rendered from Actual Back room, Elongated Skulls..
laser thermos are a sham. fluctuates all the time. can't get steady accurate readings because it's hitting different air particles on top of hitting surface particles with gloss deviations at different regions all the time. even the fluke branded ones made in the states are useless. also, how do you know the fluke is the more accurate one? maybe the chinese one is more accurate since you didn't test with a full contact third party thermometer
I appreciate your work, but your measurements are not really accurate. You have to adjust the emissivity settings when measuring shiny surfaces like a stainless steel pot. And even then it is pretty much hit or miss.
Great informative video. My daughter picked up a couple of sample bottles this weekend at SMRRF in Oxford. I couldn't see any directions so I wanted to check how to apply it. Now I know that it works and how to apply it. In fact the only downside is that I no longer need to make a video while seeing if it works 😂. I would have like to have seen the test twisted but imagine it would still hold. Top job fella
Your absolute min. layer heights for a 0.25mm nozzle should be 0.06mm. You should not cross a certain ratio between nozzle size e.g. 0.4mm or 0.25mm and layer height. The smaller the nozzle the smaller layer you can print and vise versa. You also get stringing because you remelt the previous layer, lower your temps, increase cooling, increase travel speed, turn off z-hop, increase retraction, turn on wipe while retract and tune it. Those should help with stringing a lot.
Wow.. This is good.. As a software programmer, i have always felt bored spending hours making a single model in blender and other mouse based CAD software...models not easily reused, moving the mouse, shortcuts, hidden menus...... OpenScad is like my way out
Very cool idea, I've been looking for a pumpkin for a while that can be printed in segments and therefore larger than the printing area. The only thing missing here would be a scary face. If the individual segments were even closer together it would certainly look very cool, what do you think?
