User error. Its nothing wrong with the xtool. Ur 25$ scanner uses obd2 protocol scan and shows dtcs that are not cycle ready. Ecu will sometimes show dtc only on obd2 protocol and not in automatic scan, where every scan tool uses oem protocol, where only complete cycle dtcs are shown, after ecu decide to show. Dtc like egr, cat converters and others will require such complete cycle before it gets shown on manufactured software scan. Hope that makes sense for u.
Except this event caused me to purchase Multiecuscan for the Fiat and it showed the DTC immediately. The idea that you'd need to take your scanner out of vehicle specific mode and rerun as a generic obd to see a critical dtc is nonsensical. Also, XTool engineers were baffled and hoped to catch the issue in a subsequent update. They may have by now, as they update frequently and this all occured months ago.
@@KentForresti understand ur opinion, but as i said this is not a tool issue , its the way car ecus are build and programmed to work. You will notice obd2 protocol shows for ex P0402 and under car manufacure protocol after cycle is completed will give u a different dtc as P0402-00 or 03 after ecu will gather more data about the issue and help u better understand whats happening. This will happen no matter is a xtool ar launch or autel.
@@MrAladinnu but you're factually wrong about the circumstances. The XTool continued to not report any DTC when Multiecuscan was reporting the DTC. This is not a matter that can be debated. This is factually what occurred. I'll also repeat that I was in communication with the XTool engineers and they agreed the DTC should have been picked up and they were taking a fresh look at their most recent Fiat diagnostic file update to find the issue. They've likely resolved it by now. But with Multiecuscan already purchased, that's what I'll use on the Fiat going forward.
@@KentForrest ok. I programmed and developed ecus for long years now. A scanner only will show u a dtc code if ecu decide to send that info, only if the cycle is conpleted. Until then the dtc will be shown on obd2 protocol with the clear mention of pending. Search google for pending dtc and u will learn more. If scanner is not up to date will always read the dtc but will have no description code for it. Regards
The question is: should you bother trying to get rid of a lean/rich condition if there are no codes. I've tried to improve my fuel trim but I could not find a solution. So, is it worth spending the time and money to fix a "minor" issue?
Necessary? No. Factory service manual says +20/-20 is acceptable. Would I pay a shop to hunt the issue down? Also no. As a DIY I will often tinker on matters that aren't necessarily "problems" but are just "not exactly right."
Successfully "adjusted" connector wires two times. But no longer works. Hardly ever used the darn thing either. I think it was "programmed" to fail after just 5 years. (So glad I didn't buy the extended warranty.)
Before you all go this far fown the rabbit hole, please try unplugging the connector from the bottom of the control panel that leads to the upper touch panel. Clean with CRC electronic spray cleaner (both male and femsle ends) and replug it in. This connection leads to intermittent power issues with this model.
Yoo! I’ve been a technician for 5 years and have somehow never stumbled across one of these, you saved my butt today man spent way too long taking plates in the back like the other hidden elements. (I had no helper and no table today 💀)
Man, I don't wanna admit how far I had this oven taken up from back and bottom before I thought to look for the tech sheet under the top trim. 🤦🏻♂️ Glad I could help you out.
I used a cheap brand heli coil at work and the heli coils varied in size and some tapered a little. Had nothing but trouble and scrapped a bunch in the process. I then switched to name brand and no issues. With the cheap brand, as long as you have no trouble installing them, they should be fine.
There were 4 attempts made with the XTool. None of them picked up the DTC. These guys push up software updates frequently, so I trust they'll correct the glitch. But we need our scanners to work when we need our scanners to work. Pretty unfortunate to have this happen. Fortunately, I had a backup tool.
@@KentForrest I just bought an xtool d7w after I watched your video. It isn't what they said it was and didn't list things it can't do. I am kinda disappointed and if I knew what I know now I would have just got a d7. Thanks
@@petescustomcarshop I've used the D7 since 2022 on three makes; Ford, Audi and Fiat. On the Fords I've yet to run into anything the D7 can't do, that I've needed. The Audi and Fiat I've found the D7 sometimes lacking. But usually XTool eventually releases an update to patch the issue.
@KentForrest I notice you have 333 live data points. I just bought the D7 but my 2002 honda crv only has 63 data points, which are useless in diagnosing. Is this a scanner issue or those are the only data points available for that model. Thanks!
I think Honda's generally have fewer data points. Global OBD might be helpful especially Mode 6 data. It was explained to me that if it relates to emissions, Global OBD has the required info.
Hey how are you I’m having the same issue with my fiat abarth changed spark plugs checked the coils and nothing seems to be the problem did you end up figuring out what was wrong with yours ? Can’t find a 4th video lmk if you could help
Ik heb me deze ook aangeschaft. Maar in zou een licentie moeten aankopen om deze te kunnen gebruiken. Is dit de manier hoe je ermee kan enkel met werken?
Amazon tool quality is most of the time really bad and bevor I get that from amazon and it brakes in the engine I get the better one with no Problems. So we in Germany "say if you buy cheap you buy twice".
So I had an oem m12 drain plug on my victory I was able to extract it removing the threads. For a temporary fix I put in a m12.1 x 1.5 x 15mm what size time sert do I need now that the drain hole is .10 bigger then it was. Can I still drill it out with the m12 kit or do I have to go to an m13
Yall gunna chew me apart in comments... well yea cause you didn't let the company do what they need to verify you didn't put the wrong oil on it. Between my wife and our friends we have over 50 shoei helmets. Never had this issue with proper chemicals only being used on it. Let me guess you use a cleaner that has alcohol in it? That dries the rubber. Compare it to others in the market- do just what you said. Crash the helmet and then crash a different 200 helmet. Let us know how badly the second one goes. Invest more I. Your head stop buying the base helmets an complaining. 😂
The GT Air 2 is not a base helmet for one thing, it’s one of Shoei’s top selling helmets right now, but the truth is that the visor part of the helmet is low quality, feels janky, and isn’t made to spec from factory when paying 650+ for a helmet you can believe some people will be rightfully upset when they spend all that money for a helmet that isn’t perfect when you buy it. I’ve had better functionality out if helmets that cost half the GT Air 2 so it’s disappointing. Other than that the rest of the helmet seems to be relatively good. If you can sacrifice comfort for reliability and easy use then i would recommend an HJC i70, older helmet but still really nice, easy to do everything, has a nice secondary sun visor and easily switchable visors you don’t have to mess with to get a nice fit
I'm a professional test rider, my gt air has over 200,000 miles in less than 2 years. I ride 6 days a week, 400 to 500 miles a day. You just got a lemon of the bunch. Shoei has a 5 year warranty.
Good video. When looking at these live data stream values like your fuel trims for example, how does one know if the values are good or too high or low?
It is a very commun issue on Fiat, Alfa Romeo, Peugeot, Citroen, and othe Stellantis brand…. if the drain stops when you remove the F36 fuse under the dasboard… It is your Bluetooth (blue&me) module that is dead and does no more go to sleep mode…. the quick solution unplug this module…. it is under the glove box for LHD cars (~5mn of work) or in the left quarter panel for RHD (~2h of work😢) An associated symptom is this dead module is the blinking odometer which mean one of the module is no more seen by the can bus… disconnecting the plug will not solve the blinking odometer…
@@user-zl3ng5tx9f Just a temporary fix unfortunately. But, if possible, you may want to unplug dishwashed and plug back in. Or turn the circuit breaker off then back on after a minute or so. (That worked one time.)
If the manual says replace the main... probably a good idea. At least warn the customer if you are going to try not to so that if you end up doing it later... they don't get too angry.
Interesting. I’m here because mine began working intermittently and a tech came out and replaced the board you mentioned at the end. Asshat over tightened the panel screws too so now I can’t get back in there. Thing worked for 6 months before returning to intermittent functionality. Thanks for the video.😊
I have this issue with a 99 Nissan altima. My xtool D7 won't read it, and neither will my Snap-on read the factory dtc's. But when I switch over to Global OBD2, my Snap-on will read it. I don't think the X tool supports the global OBD even though it probably relies on some of its information. However, I do have a cheap little 25.00 job like yours, and it will talk to my nissan , b😮ecause I think all they can do is read OBD2.
Thank you for this video. After watching many other videos but did not fixed. I almost bought control board then i removed low voltage connector and wagged and put it back then light came on. It was simple wire connector issue save 100$ +!
