Just got one, can get it to crank but not start , neutral light and oil light comes on when trying to start it, replaced oil, spark plugs, fuses.Gonna keep working with it. Thanks for the vids
Thanks for commenting. Hopefully something I blundered through this video actually helps you out!! My no start situation ended up being the cdi box that I forgot to plug back in. Complete idiot move, what can I say?!
Got the XJ550 going, all I did was clean out the gas tank, carbs, and throw in some new spark plugs. Haven't messed with the other one, have too many other projects to deal with.
Nope. I was missing spark because I’d unplugged the cdi box and forgot to plug it back in. Turns out the only thing the bike needed was some maintenance, tires and a chain. Oh- had to rebuild the carbs too.
Soft top is the canvas top used on a 2004 mazdaspeed miata. Fit the NA frame without any mods. I believe the NA and NB frames are identical but I can't remember.
Hey! So I just bought one as well, 1981. Took the carbs off and about to do a rebuild. Never done a rebuild at all but I’m sure I’ll figure it out. . Anyways, I have no spark as well. What exactly did you swap out on this episode?? Thank you!
So I didn't end up having to change anything out. Turns out, I unplugged the CDI box to get it and the airbox out of that way so the carbs would come out. After plugged everything back in, it fired right up thankfully. Parts for these older bikes are getting harder to find and more expensive, unfortunately..
This would probably need a really worn or badly made lock to have enough play to just unhook the shackle like that, considering it seems the force of the lock moving and the shackle not is what unlocks it
Go buy a brand new lock and try it. This isn't some remarkable breaking news. There's hundreds of videos on RU-vid of locksport pickers opening these shitty locks like this.
This is the actual latch getting briefly pushed out of the way. That's why he has to pull on it for it to work, otherwise the latch would just return to its locked position
Funny story. Was at a car meet one evening back in spring 2016 (it's one of my videos doing 2 step) about fifteen minutes later a ton of cops flood the old Kmart parking lot we were in cause someone called reporting gun shots. Oops!
I've been pretty busy with work lately and haven't had much of a chance to do anything with the bike. Short list is down to tires and a battery, then we should be ready for a first ride!
ECU is a Megasquirt MS1 running the megasquirt-and-spark code that i built from a kit about fifteen years ago. Tuning is pretty easy using an AEM UEGO wideband controller and your basic laptop. Car made 280whp/225wtq on roughly 10psi from an ebay Chinese T04E t3/r4 turbo that was like $99. Turbo has roughly 70k miles on it and has managed to kill 2 stock motors because I, for some reason, never put my forged rods in any of them. Never made it to the track, but my best estimate, that car would've easily run a mod 11 second quarter mile pass given the right launch and traction. I had no problems beating a 2007 z06 vette in multiple quarter mile runs (in Mexico, of course...) by about a car length.
@@Lammydrifts1996 Didn't mention, motor is a 1999 1.8, so it has the better flowing cylinder head and I wired the VICS shut on the intake manifold. Injectors are Ford Motorsport GT500 EV14 550cc/min. 400 with a forged motor? Hell yah I think that's possible. You'll want a 99+ cylinder head, billet oil pump, and MUCH bigger injectors. At 43psi static fuel pressure, running 700cc/min injectors on gasoline will support roughly 400hp. Bump up the fuel pressure and you can lower the duty cycle, but to be safe, I'd go with some DW 1000's personally. Some other things to keep in mind, that I'm sure you're aware of. A built motor can handle that kind of power, but the stock differential most certainly won't for very long under any kind of abusive acceleration. The 6 speed trans *might* handle that, but I don't know for how long. 400whp was actually my goal for this car, until I blew up the very last motor (broke rods, again...) and my brother planted the stupid seed of putting an LS6 v8 in the thing. He agreed to help me build the front subframe to support and locate the engine, so I proceeded to spend about $8500 on an LS6, brand new T56, Ford 8.8 rear end, axles, headers, oil pan, oil pump/pickup, ecu, accessories etc etc etc... and 5 years later, he still hasn't even started on the subframe. I had also stripped the entire car down to a rolling chassis, stripped out all of the 4 cylinder engine control wiring, interior, then also discovered the "minor" rust I had was actually pretty severe and lost interest in the entire project. Its shell of a former car remains dormant in my garage to this day, though I've decided to put it back together and throw another 1.8 in with stock pistons and forged rods, then the lightest wastegate spring I can find just so I can drive and enjoy the car. My hunt for a big power miata has sadly come to an end. Hope this helps. If you're bored and want to read a little about this build, I have a crappy thread on miataturbo.net: www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/elesjuans-mediocre-95-miata-adventure-google-fiber-edition-85919/
@@elesjuan so you've blown 2 engines while boosted. I already planned out my build for turbss. My goal is 220-230whp. Would that be reliable or will I have to replace 1 or two engines???
@@DylGon_K24 My personal recommendation based on my personal experience? I'd bite the bullet and spend the money for some forged rods regardless of your power level. Guarantee that I'd have not blown those two if I'd just installed the damn rods I had sitting in my box of parts. Stock rods are the weak link, while they'll handle about 250 foot pounds of torque, stuff can still happen. Double check everything in whatever ECU you're using to ensure you've got overboost protection. Finally, enjoy, man. A 220whp miata is a TON of fun!