If you look closely around 2:15, when I pull the spindle out, the rear caliper becomes loose. The brake caliper is held in place by the spindle and a pin that slots into the swing arm, and is tightened in place when the nut is screwed onto the spindle. You can see the configuration of the rear brake caliper clearly if you pause at 3:42. Hope this helps!
Excellent video and awesome camera angles! I am trying to find out from Delkevick. If this exhaust in the full system will fit my '24 RS moto2 edition. I don't have the exhaust heat shield because there is a belly pan. So I think the brackets being unused that are welded on to the header will be my only thing to figure out. Great video!
Just wanted to post a thank you. I'm newish to motorcycles and had my first dead tire. Followed your other video to remove and this one to reinstall. Hope to see more content from you in the future. Also... Damn that's a lot of grease! Jk 😂♥️
Careful tightening that spindle nut with grease on the threads, that will give you a false torque value when tightening making you go over the value and overtightening, always clean the threads to get an accuracy value, other than that great video
easiest way to get the axle in, is to sit down and cradle the tire with your feet. that way you can raise and lower it as needed and slide the axle right in there easy peasy. what size is the socket???
I didn't read the service manual regarding grease, but I think it's good practice to grease moving parts. I'm just transferring my knowledge from the bicycle world, the grease helps to reduce friction, prevent corrosion, and waterproofs the area. The only downside I can think of is if you over-grease (which I may have done), then it becomes a magnet for dust and dirt. I'm not sure if you can paste links in the comments, but can you lead me in the right direction to find the service manual?
@@jeff_rides The spindle to wheel contact point is not moving, spindle contacts the inner race of bearing which does not move relative to spindle, also the spacers left/right side of wheel dont move. I think it might be useful to put just a little on the bearing race to prevent sticking and help assembly but everything else is just collecting dust imo. I have the service manual but dont know how send it to you.
@@pete_mitchell I completely agree that the inner bearing race, the spacer, and the spindle do not spin with the wheel, and on paper they should function as a single unit once clamped to the swing-arm. However I don't believe that's the case in real world applications with vibrations and bad tolerances. I don't have any supporting materials to back this up, but I think the faint score lines that goes around the spacers should be proof that there is some movement in that assembly. Besides the friction, I will still grease those up for corrosion resistance (definitely not to the extent I did in the video). After seeing the corrosion that some of my road bikes have gone through, I'm not leaving any metal-to-metal interfaces dry.
@@jeff_rides Your bike, do what you want. Any marks on these parts are just a result of assembly, they will absolutely not move during operation. Anyway, have the link for the service manual but won't be posting as your comment shows you won't be doing what it says anyway 😜
@@pete_mitchell I was treating this as a casual conversation on whether or not we should grease the parts since in your original comment you just stated that the service manual did not mention grease (implying that it is unknown whether grease is a bad thing or not). I wasn't stating things to oppose your ideas, I was merely typing out my observations and theories. If the service manual explicitly says that we should not grease those parts at all, then yes, the manual should be followed. And if I inadvertently offended you, then yes I don't deserve that service manual link 😢
Can you please explain to me why you have a single exhaust and not the dual exhausts? I found a nice 2010 model i really wanna buy but it has a single low exhaust and im not sure if thats a customized design or what. Also can i change the single low exhaust system to the classic dual exhausts?
I'm not too familiar with the other years of street triples, but the 2019 street triple is single exhaust from the factory. You may be confused with the 2019 speed triple, which is dual exhaust. As for switching to dual exhaust, I have no idea, but I'd assume you'd have to switch out the entire exhaust system. Best to consult a proper mechanic since changes that big probably require a retune.
You make that look easy. I was cursing Triumph and everyone else my first attempt. There's like six things that can go wrong, and one almost always does. BTW, I'm pretty sure I could hear parts falling off the Panigale. Maybe it was something breaking. Not really sure. LOL
I made it look easy through editing. I did everything at least twice, first (or few) times to figure out what is a good process, then a final time to get it on film. I still managed to struggle even after figuring out what I thought was a good method. I've been putting off recording more "maintenance" videos because every time I want to, I remember how much work the other videos took.
I will need to look this up, I'm just learning as I go. My thought process for tightening the bolts was to secure the position of the slip-on first, then secure the rest of the pipes. If I did it the other way around, it's possible that I may be introducing torsional and/or bending stresses to the pipes as I tighten the slip-on while the rest of the pipes are already tight. Maybe this doesn't matter at all, or maybe my theory is completely wrong. Hopefully someone with experience can chime in!
Hello! What silicon sealant have You used? I was thinking about buying 1200 C degrees from my shop, because we sell that kind o stuff. Should be enough? :P
Hi there! If you are buying the same exhaust slip-on kit, then there is a tube of silicon sealant already included. Their sealant is for temperatures ranging from -65 to 750F (-54 to 371C). Another high temp sealant that I've seen other people use is Permatex Ultra Copper High Temperature Gasket Maker. If your shop's silicon sealant isn't marketed for motorcycle exhaust use, I can't say if it will work. If you do use it, just keep checking for leaks every so often.
@@jeff_rides I went for Scorpion :) Exhaust & decat pipe fits very tight, but then I have to connect entire exhaust with exhaust manifold ( so pipe which goes to the engine ) and I feel like silicone would help in that place a little bit. 1200 C looks very high, question is it only for marketing use or it's really quality product, it's cheap that's for sure.
@@triumph765rlow2 Oh nice! Wish I had more expertise to answer your questions, but seems like it might require some testing on your end. Would love to know the end results. Good luck with your build!
Well done video. I have a 2019 Triumph bobber black and I got a flat tire with only 2000km on the tire so I was trying to find a video that would show how to remove the tire. The axel set up on your bike is a very similar set up so the video worked well for me. Probably saved me a $100 at the dealership not having them take it off.
Hey bud. Got my pipe, it's damn loud so glad I didn't get the full open 200mm version. I'm noticing an extreme amount of popping on de-acceleration.. really is too much.. might need a tune for me to keep running this pipe. Do you experience the same? Maybe I just need to chuck the baffle back in..
That's unfortunate that you didn't end up liking it. I never removed the baffle since I live in a very quiet neighbourhood, and even with it on it was plenty loud for me. I didn't experience much popping, but the burbles are amplified at lower RPMs. I get popping from time to time if I am deccelerating very aggressively. Yea, perhaps the baffle might help quell the noise a bit. I heard the Delkevic is already on quiet end out of the other manufacturers. Can't imagine what a Yoshi or an SC Project would sound like.
@@jeff_rides I like the pipe, I think it may just need a tune. Wasn't expecting so much popping! Definitely going to put the baffle back in, too loud for my liking without it. Thanks for the feedback 👌
Nice clip mate. Pipe sounds really good, quite subtle at low RPMs but sounds great when you open it up a bit! I've got a ST 660, but I've noticed most of the triples sound the same, so I imagine it will be very simlar. Going to order one of these next week! Thanks for posting 👍 I feel for you guys in Canada not being able to lane filter, hope they fix that law for you soon. Also couldn't help but notice you have the same habit as me where you are always tapping your indicator cancel 🤣
There's been quite a few petitions for lane filtering, but nothing ever came of it. I hope one day I can filter too to get out of traffic! Glad my video helped you make your purchase decision, we're gonna get another STDelkevic on the road :D Yea, it's been ingrained into my mind by my riding instructor to cancel my indicators. I'm quite forgetful and even after 6 years of riding I still forget to turn them off sometimes (e.g. at 8:52). Luckily the triumph auto-cancel feature came to the rescue haha.
don't get surprised when you see your stand bobbin melting over time ;) I'm surprised you put sealant on the header side, I thought the carbon crush gasket is enough on its own. keep an eye on the link pipe - header connection. mine keeps getting lose for some reason. I've already re tightened it some 4 times 😒
Huh, good point, I never thought about the exhaust coming out directly at my bobbin. I didn't reuse the factory carbon crush gasket, I used the pipe clamp that Delkevic supplied. Did you somehow used the factory gasket with the link pipe? Yea, I've been checking after every ride, I heard about the bolts getting lose, but so far mine seems fine.
@@jeff_rides I also used the one provided with the kit (that sleeve is actually called carbon crush gasket). I just didn't think it was necessary to use the sealant with it, maybe my mistake? In my case the clamp itself doesn't get lose but the crush gasket seems to migrate deeper toward the link pipe and make the whole thing start wobbling a bit. I didn't think the pipe would melt the bobbin, I carry my bike a lot in a van and at first I thought it was just rubbing against something. When it melted some more after a while it became obvious to me ;)
@@plllot9713 My guess (I'm no expert) is if your kit came with carbon crush gaskets, it's probably enough. Mine however came with two stainless steel pipe clamps. If you google "Clamps - Delkevic US Accessories" and click on the official website link, that is what I have. And if you google "Carbon Crush Gasket - Delkevic" and click on the official website link, that's what I don't have. I will contact Delkevic and see if this is something that is missing from my kit. Regarding the bobbins, I will have to keep an eye on them. I'm going to have to readjust the angle of my exhaust, or install the bobbins only when I need them.
@@plllot9713 My mistake, I found out the carbon crush gasket is included and on the inside of the link pipe and not outside like the factory one. According to Delkevic, there is no need for silicon sealant at the inlet of the link pipe. Time to update my video description... Update: video description and captions updated!
@@jeff_rides 👍🏻 I was debating with myself for a while when installing mine whether I should use the sealant there or not. The instructions are very generic and not model specific so they don't help much. regarding the bobbins, mine keeps melting but it's still usable after some 1500 miles with the exhaust. I'll see how it gets on further 😁
Thanks for making this video dude. I'll be ordering a Delkavic pipe for my ST soon, but still choosing which one. What do you think of the sound of the tri oval? Any chance you could put up a vid of some ride time on the open road?
I'm glad you enjoyed my video! I chose the slip-on largely based on aesthetics and price, but I did refer to Delkevic's resources to choose something that can be subtle as well. I'm not sure if posting links works in YT comments, but if you google "Silencer Specs - Delkevic exhausts" they have a table of all the exhausts they sell with a short description of the sound it produces. Mine says, "Subtle at low rpm, loud if you want it", and I'd say it's pretty accurate. The tri oval definitely made the exhaust note a lot deeper and brought out the burble and pops. I just recorded a ride yesterday, but I don't have the best audio equipment to capture the exhaust note perfectly. Might post sometime this week!
@@jeff_rides thanks for the info! I've seen the Delkavic videos where they post the bike on a Dyno, but they just rev it out to redline so it's hard to hear what it would be like in a normal riding scenario. I didn't realise they have a sound description on each of the pipes. I am most likely going to order the tri oval titanium as it appears to be a good all rounder. Would be great to see a video if you have the time. Thanks again 👍👍
@@elobus369 I've finally had the time to edit and upload a short city ride video, it's scheduled to be uploaded 5AM PST tomorrow to allow the HD processing to do it's job.
Nice video. The spindle was difficult to completely send home because you installed the chain prior to installing the spindle. In addition, you had the rear wheel chocked in a fixed position which exacerbated the problem. To avoid having to hammer next time (I would use a rubber mallet or at least a dead blow) you want to remove the wood chocks temporarily, support the wheel with your arm, and shake (jimmy) the wheel while pushing the spindle in with your hand or bumping it with your palm.
I guess leaving the chain adjusters untouched wasn't as time-saving as I thought, since I wasn't able to install the chain after the spindle was installed. Updating my description with your advice, thanks! I will have to refilm that section the next time I take my wheel off again.
@@jeff_rides Maybe the STR765 design is different, but for most bikes when you loosen the rear axle nut, you can slide the wheel forward and back without losing your chain adjustment. You can then slip on and off the chain, then pull the wheel back firmly and evenly, then tighten the nut. I'll have to look at my striple. Given my chain adjustment and wheel alignment was spot on to begin with, I would take a mental note of the adjustment markings to make sure I hit my target when it goes back on. I also use a motion pro alignment tool mostly out of curiosity.
@@jeff_rides I looked at mine, yeah it looks like you'd have to lose your adjustment in order to have the wheel "loose". I think chain on doesn't matter as much as I thought, I think the wood chocks prevent you from jimmying the spindle in I wouldn't worry about the chain being on, sorry about that.
@@GreenBeats11 No worries, I still think you gave some valid tips. Upon review of my own video again, I think I had actually removed my wheel chocks after I pushed the spindle as far as I could. At around the 4:50 mark, you can see that the wheel is able to spin freely. I think next time I do this again, I will screw in the chain adjusters to give the spindle more room to jiggle, and maybe that will do the trick! Another good test I can probably do is to put the spindle through various parts of the rear wheel assembly independently (wheel, spacers, swingarm) to see if it's catching anywhere.
@Joe Garfield Thanks man! I definitely will have to re-edit this video with new footage the next time I have to change my tire again. Glad I was able to help you out a bit!
