It's better to leave the two sides separated with a gap in the middle instead of squeezing them together - it leaves room for the tool to make a nice tight clamp and provides a spot for the wire ends to neatly fold down into after you cut off the excess. Also, don't do this with copper wire - hose clamps need to be strong not soft.
I had the first CT125 in NM. I've owned two CT90s and four CT110 and I really missed the hi/lo range on the new CT125. And isn't that just the hardest seat you ever sat on? I kept it for 1500 miles and sold it to a guy in Poland. I've got a 2021 Honda Monkey now that I like a lot more (along with my 2018 Vespa GTS300 Touring model, 2021 Moto Guzzi V7 Stone Centenario, CT70 and my Versys X 300)
I'm using a Akaso V50. For this video I was testing a new clamp. Still working on different features .. like the light setting which I got wrong. My Canon Rebel T8i is what I need to use more. I saw a video (?) on the NMBDR where they used more stills <- what I need to more of. Can't afford a GoPro. Instruction on using the V50 would be helpful.
@@mitchappleby9166 I have an old GoPro 5 but GoPros have their problems. Almost everyone complains of sudden shut-downs and if you don't notice it, you go on talking and think you're filming, then you have to do it all over again. I tried my iPhone on my handlebar but even with its built-in ability to stop the "jiggle" it was too bouncy to keep the video. We used to live in Janesville, WI. It was my wife's hometown. We both grew up in Wisconsin but been in NM for about 40 years. Still waiting for you to email me (I left my email address in my last reply to you on my site). I hope you are still considering coming down here for the NMBDR.
Just gotta say - while I acknowledge the detail, your methodology is wayyy overly precise. From the complex equation for the wire length that only a mathematician could appreciate, to threading each individual leg of wire through the loop before clamping. Nobody except you & I remember what Pi is, or Phi, or Kaprekar's Constant for that matter! And you took nearly five minutes to simply wrap the wire! It was painful to watch. Listen - your guitar playing and your tool are beautiful, but you really need to simplify this procedure. Please, watch the video I've linked to here. (Edit where appropriate.) youtube[DOT]com/watch?v=of9p70H7gdg
I just received my new Lee Auto Drum powder dispenser. I've seen many videos talking about the disconnect and various ways people dealt with the clicking etc. My Auto Drum did NOT come with the disconnected at all. A screw was installed at the actuation arm to make sure the arm doesn't slip and cause partial rotation. Mind does not click sìńnd is very consistent.
Hi Mitch, thanks for the instructive video. I'm in the UK and have just bought a Shellback that was imported here from the States. I have been admiring your extra side benches and would like to add some myself. Have you any recommendations on how to go about it? Cheers from Wales.
Greetings to my Wales friend. A lot of what I've learned about sailing and wood turning has come from your country. (Roger Barnes, etc) So some hints: I made a cardboard pattern to fit the starboard/port 'seats' in. Using a compass to trace the curve of the sides to the pattern. I have a surface planer which helped match the thickness of stern and midship seats. The later seats were removed and tabs were glued and screwed to the bottoms for the side seats to rest on. (My seats are not cut back to make them look thinner as Noel White described). Hope this helps. If you want more detail on making the bent type seat I'll try to give more info. I can't get the dinghy now with the weather as it is. I envy your place to sail. I'm on the Mississippi so I have to travel to get to a lake, etc.
Thank you@@mitchappleby9166, I appreciate the quick reply. I will get the cardboard out today! I'd love to hear more about how you made your bent slatted seat - they look really fine. It's only Day 2 of my ownership of the boat and I haven't yet sailed her, but the weekend's coming and, as you said, there are plenty of options here in Wales. I love the Shellback's simplicity and character.
I have a shell back dinghy that I purchased from a wonderful boatbuilder in Maine. I've always had trouble with how to rig the sail. This answers so many questions. Did you sell your boat?
I shot a Bear Montana years ago have wanted one since. However, this seems to be just a accurate and as smooth. It is light enough to hunt all day with and dead quiet with what came with it. Rated 25 pounds at 28 inches; I pull 29 to 30 inches and it doesn't stack, no shock. Once I weighted the arrows they fly straight and consistent. I find it very easy to site an arc. For half the price of the bow I can get 35# limbs so that may be in future for me. I now have no desire to get a Montana. Also I had my son try the bow and he hit the small Teddy Bear on the first shot.
Just answer some comment on using H110 .. I don't use H110 in the Lee's Drum Auto Loader. I Trickle H110 for 357 mag. The drum is spot on for Win 231 which I use for 9mm.
Really hard to hear ya. Fine ball WILL work its way down towards the gears. It just takes one granual to wedge the drum slightly and the rest flow like ants. If Lee would have made this a Double funnel like a Yo Yo that problem would have been mitigated. I've been through 6 of these and each one leaks fine ball. Graphite and or lapping the drum helps slightly but not for fine ball. This drum is the best for stick powders though! Lee Auto Disc with Adjustable charge bar or a Uniflow and Hornady Case Activator for the fine Ball on a progressive
The sound is very dull and low like you got microphone is covered with something, I had hard time hearing. Regardless the problem you're describing you just need to screw the riser die in a little deeper and you'll get a full cycle that's all! As far as accuracy goes the problem I found that you get those 0.2 grain off target throws that are more common than drum type measures like RCBS. I haven't tested the powder you mention but here's a challenge for you, do 20 throws and record each one and see what kind of spread you get. I can guarantee you you're not going to get each and everyone at 5.1, you'll have some that are 5.0 and some that are 5.2 and occasionally you might even get one that's .2 grain off target, that's my experience. I've seen where it would throw nearly perfect 4 times in a row but than next one would jump quite a bit.
I have good luck with H110, BL-C(2) , titegroup and IMR 4064. It does a fair job with Unique. It does drive me crazy sometimes about not fully cycling, I'll give this a try!
