The hose that loops the heater core lines doesn't matter if it kinks. You don't need to circulate coolant through it. It's there just to provide heat for the interior of the car. You could block both ends and nothing would happen.
Correct. I wasn’t concerned with the heater core lines being kinked i was concerned with the new hose I added going from the head to the thermostat housing not being kinked!
For those encountering the same issue with reading "0.xx" from their S300 - that's the air/fuel ratio in LAMBDA! You gotta change the readout in the sensor settings, because the stock config is Lambda, NOT AFR! Both are technically the same thing, but use different ways to describe the air/fuel mixture. For example AFR is dependent on fuel type (e.g. E85 or plain E10 are either a bit more rich or lean *at the same AFR* ), while Lambda is not.
those bov's are a pain in the ass!! they suck to put it simply. that bov should not move much at all. the snap rinng doesnt look seated. i hate em with a passion. ebay 50mm bov work a ton better and sound better too! upgrade when you can!
it could be as simple as the radiator cap not working as it should. ur radiator cap will release/draw coolant as needed.orrrrr combustion pressure getting into the cooling system from ur head gasket.
I really hope its not a headgasket haha i have zero coolant loss and the overflow doesn’t bubble at all… switched rad cap and it seems to be better also think i overfilled coolant a little it was right up to the brim of the neck on the rad and kept spilling over when i took rad cap off while running…
Oh… u didn’t get much +camber. I was contemplating these for a few days but after seeing this video, I prob won’t lol. They definitely look well built, but aside that I think it’s safe to their camber adjustments are pretty standard to other kits.
@@fullthrottle4814 Yeah bro this is not a kit for stance at all you dont get a lot of camber out of it. More of a track/street kit to maximize cornering
how was ur tune with nabil i have a break in tune atm where my limiter is set at 5k to figure out issues which only ones so far is oil leaks but car seems to be running srong
You should the valve cover or the block to release pressure and also 4 bar map sensor is an overkill, also dyno tune is better. Good content been watching u from the earlier stages u doing great👍
Yeah I’ll get it on the dyno one day here but I have full faith in the nabil street tune, hes a wicked tuner! Ive got a Level7 oil cap breather I’ll have to install again. Thanks bro I appreciate it!
Those are really good spark plugs, however I've been told the best plug for boosted Hondas is a regular ngk, part number 4554. Be super careful not to chip the iridium tip. Good build though so far
Thanks bro I appreciate the feedback, i was thinking the same thing about the plugs… These were just the plugs my tuner wanted in the car so I figured id better just go with them! We’ll see how they do might make the switch back as i was running 4554’s before hand!
Yessir im going to replace it to be safe but it clicks and tested okay from what I can tell but thats the only thing that hasn’t been replaced yet so ill grab a new one and try 👍
if you’re running a jumper harness from car to ecu check the pins in every wire, had a similar ect issue , replaced both sensors only to find one of the pins fell out like a week before. Ik you said wirings fine but worth a shot maybe
use a DMM to test the radiator fan circuit passenger compartment under the dash is fuse 13 which should have a 7.5a. should be around source voltage. 12V under the hood fuse/relay box you need to check fuse 33 which has a 15a fuse, (12v) and tests the fans relay.(keep in mind just cus it clicks doesn't mean the relay is good) this will help you eliminate where your short, open, or high resistance may be. my best guess would be the fan motor GROUND wire needs repair if the relay/fuses check out. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay. 2. Connect ohmmeter between relay terminals A and B, Fig. 10. 3. Meter should indicate no continuity. 4. Connect battery voltage across terminals C and D. 5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals A and B.
Don't put thread sealant on sensors that use the block as a ground, you are going to get a bad signal. But since u did do that, and in order to not take it apart again, try and touch a wire from the back of the sensor to either the block or the chassis. See if that does anything. Also are you sure u are bleeding the system correctly? if there is an air pocket behind the sensor, then it wont work. Take the sensor you took out plug it to the wiring and heat it up with either boiled water or a heatgun to see if anything happens. If the fans kick in then there is air behind the sensor and you need to bleed the system again.
That happened on my cd5 Accord, car all hooked up for a dyno session and fan wont turn on. All it took was turn the heater all the way to hot to let water circulate and open the water bleed port and tuner was happy and tuning sessuon got started.
Sounds good ill look into that thanks man. Side note, wouldn’t that green wire be okay if the fans turn on when you jump the thermostat switch? Because as soon as I jump the connector for the thermo switch my fan turns on instantly…??
Hondata you can just command fan on or set number really low no need to run engine if Hondata doesn't have control on fan there a wiring issue fuse/short/bad connector
Wiring is fine. When you jump the thermostat plug fans turn on. Both fuses and the relay are good. And I just replaced thermostat switch so what else could it be. I was running the engine to bleed the coolant and to see if it would finally turn on once at temp which it didn’t.
You need to check the hose routing from the head. The thermostat switch doesnt see any hot coolant until the thermostat opens. And from what ive noticed on mine. It switches the fans on when the coolant temperature coming from the radiator is 196 F. The head (Where ECT sensor is) may get a bit hotter than that if the thermostat isnt open yet.
Both upper and lower hoses are super hot to the touch. New thermostat I installed opens at 170° F. Both hoses hot to touch and hondata telling me ect is at 200° F and the fans still dont kick on…. Ive check both fuses and the relay and replaced all 3 of those as well as all 3 coolant sensors/switches and it still doesn’t turn on even when its about to overheat. When I jump the connector that plugs into the thermostat switch the fans turn on instantly… im so confused bro😅
@kriskan8019 the fan works just fine i showed me testing it and i literally showed in this video me setting the temp for the fans to turn on in hondata still doesnt work bro idk
@@brashgarage I didn't catch it in the video but make sure the fanC output from your ecu is wired into your harness or else Hondata won't be able to turn the fans on.
I spray painted and touched up a scratch of my car.. but then later I see lot of overspray on my car door,when I touch it I can feel it..can I wetsand with 2000 grit to remove the overspray from the door?? And the touched up part ,I have not applied a clear coat,only a top coat
I woild really recommend taping up corners you dont want to sand and panels. I first sanded my roof and accidentally sanded the side panels next to the roof
really nice..thank you...I have 72..& used my car to bring my wife to hospital every week...I am in Argentina..but I think I will save Money..thank you bomba and belt...good idea..
Hey, I had a similar issue that my fan wasn't turning on with oem connector even though it was before. I did a little research and looked at a schematic and I found out that I was missing fuse number 17 under the steering wheel dash. I somehow took it out and didnt realize. Popped one in there and sure enough it turned on. I dont know if this will help but doesn't hurt to check. The circuit might be incomplete or Maybe the fuse is blown who knows. Hope this helps in some way.
Havent touched the 2 temp switches all OEM and yes dash temp gauge works I believe it never goes about half though even when hondata says ect is at 200-210f. Only gotten that hot once but dash gauge was still at half
@brashgarage ok, so the 1 on the thermostat housing is your fan switch, mishimoto makes one that'll turn on at 170°, I'd try to change that out, the tiny 1 on the head is for your gauge sounds like that may not be working correctly, there's also a second temp sensor right beside that 1 on the head. I'd change all those, and maybe change the thermostat out to a mishimoto 170° as well since your turbo charged.
That's not the intake temp sensor, that's the white plug with the sensor on the intake runner by the alternator. That is some emissions sensor, it's also used for cruise control. Nice build. I used that vacuum source for my b20 turbo I had, you should be good
