@@maverickcheston8874 it’s a manual but it’s built by JM Imports so it has a lot more power, not too many shifts needed on Curborough as it’s a tight circuit and each gear carries higher speeds now. Thanks, until the end. 😂
The 718 GTS 4.0 Cayman and Boxster are absolute future classics. With that perfect flat 6 4.0 liter engine and manual transmission all in mid-engine platform. Just perfect at 100-110 US. Nowhere to go but up! Great car.
@@jenniferharris7633 I didn’t know that but I called Porsche as soon as I saw this comment. Officially there hasn’t been any communication from Porsche to the dealers about continued production but it is rumoured. The problem is the GTS allocations were cut ages ago, I think they have a separate (or separated) production line. I’ve asked to be told if they do have any new allocations but I can’t imagine they’ll add them back again. Fingers crossed!
@@KingandTitanRacing The 2025 models and options are on the Porsche North America website, and my SA confirmed it last week, but he doesn't know about allocation numbers. What caught my attention was the new addition of the color option Vanadium Gray Metallic. Beyond gorgeous.
@@KingandTitanRacing Perhaps different in other parts of the world but I just ordered 2025 BGTS 4.0 2 weeks ago and got an allocation (October 2024 build) a day later (Canada).
@@YungEBT you could use chopped fiber but that would definitely be more expensive than fibreglass mats. I’m not sure if it would be stronger or not over a big flat area as the weave in the mat gives a lot of extra strength.
Nice work. Not into those wheel spacers though - especially at 1 and 2 inches. I know four bolt wheels are limited in availability, but maybe a wider wheel instead of a spacer??
Absolutely, and this one has been built by JM Imports up to 350 BHP so it’s very quick for a chunky thing. Thankfully the car survived and will be seen back at another track soon!
get some proper tyres on it, ive used those proxies on a few cars before and theyre crap. plus by the looks of it they are the old style ones u have so wouldnt be suprised if theyre not at their optimal anyways. some semi slicks will makes a huge difference. the zestino gredge are a good budget option which i found are very good for the money
Agreed, I only had the proxies on there as they were practically brand new and wanted to burn through them. I had Michelin PS4s in the rear though and that’s the end that slipped out. Thanks for the recommendation, I’ve thought about semi slicks but haven’t had the budget for them yet, also the tyres need to be road legal as I drive to and from the track.
If you're looking for hints on improving your technique, I can show you how to end up backwards on the grass pretty much every track day in my MR2! Gets the blood pumping, exciting though don't you think?!
Agreed, but in this case I was so far away from the track it felt safe. By the time the car stopped I was already across the next piece of run off and effectively on the service road. My main goal then was just check if the car could drive back to the pits or not. I had to bend two brackets I’d made back and then it ran okay back thankfully.
To be honest I couldn’t blame it on the car, the steering felt very stable and didn’t have any wobbles. I managed to unsettle the car by lifting at the wrong time.
First off, glad you're alright. Second, I'm glad the car didn't suffer a hard impact into anything. Very cool seeing some track day footage of the MR2 👍🏽😎 looking forward to the rebuild mate, thank you for sharing.
Thanks mate. The car stopped about 20 foot shy of a wall, so got very lucky there. I'm also glad to say the bumper has now been fixed and I've made it much better. I'm back out on track agin in 2 weeks too so I can test some new stuff and get some more footage. Think it's worth me putting a video together of the best parts of this track day before that? Some good action from that day as I was on track for about 2 hours.
@@KingandTitanRacing Lucky missing that wall. Track day highlights would definitely be a fun watch. I reckon you'll have plenty of good clips from 2hrs of recording. Glad the cars fixed up right as well. I'm sure the front ends going to be solid now 😎👍🏽
I’m going to start providing it. How much do you need? Have you made a measurement? I’m also going to do a long form video doing the start to finish including templating with MDF.
You’re not a fan? One of the things I love the most for a fast GT car, doesn’t get hot in the sun and you get so much more grip from the seats and wheel.
@@blinkachu5275 these are a great cost effective option. I got them in gold and white to get the sizes I wanted for the body kit and then had them powder coated in a custom colour.
I know.. such a face palm moment when I was editing that and realised. Can I put it down to sun stroke? 😂 I definitely should have known better having the full sales pack for the GTS in my coffee table since its release. Thanks for the support though! 👍
Hi Mark, I got them from ECPS group. I’ve had their carbon all over the car for a few years now and it’s top notch. Lots of miles on the car now, road and track with no issues at all. This is their RU-vid channel but best to find them on the FB owners group. Michal Pastryk is the guy you want to talk to on there. youtube.com/@ECPSGroup?si=lbVKscMtk9gWbZED
@@KingandTitanRacing I know them - I have their carbon door sills/kick plates already. Was just looking to explore other options (if quality is similar) as the import duty to get their stuff from Poland just bumps the prices up a bit too much now. I have a front splitter from Divinatech (UK based) so I'm going to have a look at their mirror caps
@@markstewart8232 can you let me know what that’s like? I’m thinking of setting up a supply and install service and an auk supplier would be much easier to deal with at first. I’ve messaged you on IG, could you share some feedback when you get them?
I really wish I did. 😂 I think a big part of the problem was the ambient temperature. I was using heaters but it was still very cold winter days outside the garage door. I was actually thinking for my next attempt I would rent a very expensive bit of kit for about £200 for a week and do everything in 1 go. If yours goes well can you tell me what you used?
Thanks! I ordered the kit from china, found it on eBay and then had to do the import etc that I mentioned. The kit had a lot of issues, but nothing I couldn’t fix as a first timer. I’d rather have to cut off a mounting tabs going in the wrong direction and remake my own than pay an extra £1000 or more.
Best guess based on the options and colour/ materials combo would be £83,250 in the UK. This car was sold in Dubai though so couldn’t make a guess at what it would cost there without VAT on it.
@@KingandTitanRacing I’m from Dubai, do you have any experience with the Porsche agency in Dubai? If I used their online configuration which shows prices in UAE Dirhams will they charge the same price or add a huge markup?
@@ddxxbb1 I don’t know I’m afraid but if you see one you like and agree a price, get it in writing that’s what you’re agreeing and the total list of fees and transaction costs. That’s always a good start at least.
You got the engine configuration completly wrong, its a flat six Not a straight six engine. A straight six Zylinder engine wouldnt fit in a cayman at all…
Yes I noticed that afterwards, slip of tongue on site and not much I can do after it goes live sadly as you can’t make edits. Very good spot though and thanks for pointing it out.
17”x7.5” in the front and 17”x9” in the rear, offset you’ll need to know what your kit width is though and measure that distance from the original edge. Using the fitting site I mentioned is great for working out offset.
@KingandTitanRacing thanks the information the wide body kit is from luxurycarpart is called lp super wareento its 7 inches wider from the back and 5 inches on the front
@@juanmireles9850 that’s a lovely kit! Once you get the body kit on you still have a lot of work to go and plenty of time to order some new wheels. You could get away with a thinner wheel if you get the offset right. I’m using 50mm billeted bolt in spacers at the front.
I assume you don’t mean on my Miami Blue spec? That would be a bit much I think having blue, yellow and red. But on this car it’s been optioned very nicely, certainly suits the silver very well.
That Miami Blue is gorgeous, to the extent that if my car were that colour I think it would take over my entire life and from that point forward every accessory I own would need to follow the colour scheme... watch, phone case, laptop, clothes, would all need to be that blue. And then I would drive around listening to Eiffel 65 - Blue (Da Ba Dee).
When you use marine plywood it will be fine, you should also paint and protect it if you’re doing one in wood. Mine will be ACM and carbon though which is why I’ve just used MDF for this.
Good eye! I’m actually making mine rout of ACM & carbon fibre so I just got the cheapest wood I could for this first stage. But if someone was running a wooden splitter they would definitely want plywood not MDF.
Thanks! I did hit Croft recently for a few hours and had a great session, until he spin. 😂 That caused a delay as I had to rebuild the front bumper and repay that but it’s looking fresh again. Got a video going live next weekend of a Porsche and then I’ve got a few more to edit, track session included.
If you have a stock road car that can be a good solution. But if you’re out on track they have to be hard mounted. Also if you’re creating a custom interior you can use this method and create something that looks great.
Hi, my fuel neck is quite far away from the widebody qp cutout. I cant get my gas cap on since it is supposed to stick out further. Have you ran into this issue?
I did have that issue yeah. I didn’t need to adjust the fuel neck but it does sit a little bit recessed in. Doesn’t cause any issues though. If you need to trim back the opening slightly so it fits then just do that. And I trimmed the metal ring off the original panel to provide a brace for the cap bracket. If you drop me a message on IG I can share some of the photos with you. @kingandtitanracing
You sure do! It’s worth it in the end but I even had to cut off one of the tabs to blot on the front left quarter panned as it was at 90 degrees to where it should have been. One tip I’d give, don’t worry about scuffing the bodywork when getting the alignment right, you’ll be filling and fibreglassing all over it anyway. Just make sure every panel lines up together, if you have a gap at the edge of a bonnet of boot lid then you can use fibreglass to fill that before paint. Good luck mate, happy to answer any questions you have through out.
Also, when you have everything lined up I would 100% take a mould of the front and the rear bumpers, just incase you lose one in a track session or get rear ended. Happy to come help with that so we can both get spares. 👍
wait, why would you put sealant over all the panels? doesn't that defeat the purpose of the MR-S having un-boltable panels 360 degrees around the car for ultimate serviceability when you need to scrape rust off the frame or tend to repairs easier than any other monocoque in existence?
Yeah that’s a great benefit of the MR2 but when you widebody the reality is the production of the kit just isn’t as good as factory. I just used the sealant to fill the slight gaps to the edges of the panels I wouldn’t want to remove. Skirts and 3/4 panels. Bonnets and bumpers are on/off all the time. Thankfully mine hasn’t got any rust on it and then I did the under seal anyway as an extra precaution.
@@KingandTitanRacing i feel that normalizes the car a bit. One deciding factor for me to purchase an ZZW30 over the SW20 was the removable rear panels that are otherwise permanent/ common rust spot on japanese cars. at least it's still virtually possible when you get crashed into/ struck by grandma's door at market. even if you must remove extra sealant.
I got a sheet of 6mm stainless then created a mounting bracket out of it. I then relocated that to sit on the cross brace. If you message me in IG I can share a picture of it with you.
I got a sheet of 6mm stainless then created a mounting bracket out of it. I then relocated that to sit on the cross brace with some tall bolts to keep it level. If you message me on IG I can share a picture of it with you.
@@christophergittos699 yeah it’s a real problem for any kind of vent, but the solution I did don’t even need to cut or add any hoses. Just a few cable ties to keep the hoses in place after the mount I made.
