So you’re saying we have to come up with a concept create said concept within a small period of time while losing our sanity and sleep?! You get free food …. you son of a bitch.I’m in
watched this video after it was reccomended to me by youtube... only to realise that it didn't come from a channel with 1M subscribers, but rather one with 363! amazing production quality man!
Thank you! It’s def been done before since I used them as references, but def very few since it’s VERY TERRIBLE to solder all those points hahaha. Though for something like a macro board, I’d do it again
There are plenty of ways to go about this, for custom minutes and hour hands I would ask the discord, but for a background I would follow the steps on the video. If you meant designing a custom watchface background with corresponding numbers I’m sure there is a website for that, else you can just use a photo editor and import a template from google images. On a different photo layer, you can place numbers of your own font following the placement of the template or just use a template that looks nice to you. Lmk if this helps
GREAT VIDEO! you gotta be nuts to do this by hand WITH LEDS!! omg .. i hand built a 73 key custom layout with no LEDS and it was hell. But I'm happy with it ! I def should have used copper wire and the electrical tape method.
SO YOU KNOW THE PAIN TOO 😭 and cheers to building your keyboard too! A little update, mine got corrupted a few months ago (probably due to static) but was able to reflash it so it’s all good now (the hell never ends LOL)
@@MichaelButlerC yes! If you used QMK, its pretty simple but a last resort: if you can’t get to the microcontroller to press the reset button to flash (as mine was burried under a lot of stuff) you can plug the keyboard in while holding the esc key, I think… this will ultimately wipe the microcontroller putting it into flash mode
Hey! I researched your mosfet and noticed the same Vgs(th) as you did, usually logic level is small for the min (between 0 and 1v), which is great for when you have values close to 0, very low voltage, it’s off; but when you have some significant amount of voltage, it’s on (in your case, you might find that they device will be off at voltages below 2v). This is fine if you only want the lights to come on and off (where it will send 0v for off since it’s less than 2v, and 5v for on since it’s greater than 4v). PWM brightness control should work as well since that works on how frequent a signal is on and off rather than the voltage level, but am unsure of this. The area of uncertainty is how it will behave if a voltage between 2v and 4v will read since this is where it’s kind of on and kind of off. Also interested in how the circuit will react with how QMK is programmed (magic is scary). This is just theory from my level of understanding, so ofc the best way of finding out is to test it out on a breadboard. See if you can program an arduino/teensy to light up 2-3 LED’s with your mosfet and if you can control their brightness via PWM. Lmk how it turns out or if you have any other questions! Break a board… Ima coin that
Long review coming up: TL;DR yes they sound pretty good BUT... Okay, I'll be honest, I had to spend an hr re-listening to these headphones because I haven't used them in so long. I am also not an audiophile so my ears are not the most trained. My opinions of the ws990bt are compared to the M50xBT, both hooked up via aux cable so their BT audio may sound a little different (though it shouldn't be much). I'll refer to the ws990's as the Miku's. Miku's headphones sound great and excel with vocals, especially the higher pitches from female vocals but male vocals sounds decent too. There is a trade-off, there seems to be an absence of bass from miku's, but considering that I'm accustomed to the m50x's, which is pretty bassy already, the miku's might actually be neutral sounding with amplified high's, if not than slightly low in bass. I wouldn't say one is better than the other as the miku's and the m50x's seems to fulfill different genres. I would use the m50x's for rock, hip hop, rap, jazz, and anything with male vocals and heavy focus on the instrumentals. Miku's I would use for edm, pop, jpop, female vocals, or just to focus on the vocals in general. Im not sure what artists you'd listen to but given milet (bassier female vocalist) and Ayase/ikura (a higher ranged vocalist), I would use my m50x to listen to milet and the miku's to listen to Ayase. After that's all said and done though, the miku's provide pretty good beeps and boops, and right now are cheaper than the m50xbt (surprisingly, it used to be like $250). Personally I prefer the m50x because of the extra bass and the balance between instrumentals and vocals, but the ws990's are pretty solid. miku's might not have been popular because of the high price tag when it released, and there were other headphones that sounded better for cheaper. The price on amazon as of writing this is about 180 which is more fair but not the price I would put on this pair (especially if it isn't blue). Hopefully my answer met satisfaction, lmk if you have any other questions about these.
@@PeTr01 thanks man, good info there, They’re like $150 where I am, had the wired version ages ago(ws1100is) and I liked it a bunch so Im debating between rebuying that one or getting the bt ones this time but there’s basically no info on them and they’re discontinued af so I gotta decide soon, and yeh miku best girl, author did her dirty lmao
@@ragecandy I’ve never tried the ws110’s so am unsure what to recommend, plus the ws990 might not necessarily sound better. But prob recommended for $150 if you’re looking for a Bluetooth device with the capability of using an aux, and for listening to pop/treble-vocal heavy music. It’s especially recommended if you plan to modding it a specific way 😉
Its some pretty cheap vinyl that I got from my local Joanne Fabrics, but if you’re willing to put the effort in, I suggest getting some pleather, the vinyl worked well but the texture felt stiffer than the original band, so a higher quality pleather might work best, I’d try a search on Amazon and if all else fails just head to your local fabric store and give it a feel before purchase (mainly texture and thickness, if it’s too hard or thick it might wrinkle) best of luck! El Psy Kongroo
LOL, I have the files free for download, if you don’t have a 3D printer, send it to a service and make sure they print it in PETG or similarly flexible material (in black too cause that’s what they wore in the final eps)
Haha, I appreciate that you think it warrants commission, unfortunately I’m not confident enough in my skills to “do this on the side”. I’d say if you feel comfortable enough in taking things apart and sewing, you can at the very least take the plastic off and make the blue head band, then you can send the plastic to be professionally painted (not spray painted like me lol). I will say it was a fun project to make and even better to wear to anime conventions and the movie last weekend!
Yeah, at the time of recording, there was something wrong with the potentiometer on my mixer, so the output was low and I didn’t have time to redo the recording (and I found out the problem a year after lol), if you have a pair of headphones it should be much better
Many thanks! I usually only have time for 1-2 big projects during the year Bcs of school, recently I made a toy-like microphone/speaker for the anime podcast TrashTaste and am hoping to make more for them for charity if they want to go that route (if not I’ll go a different route lol) stay tuned for more projects!
Sorry for commenting month after release, isn't the formula for current 2V/2000ohm*104? Since diodes forward voltage is close to 3V thet leaves 2V to resistor. Btw gret video im buying the components rn
Always love a good comment and this is amazing! True I didn’t think about the forward voltage of the diode while doing the calculations but either way most diodes have a forward voltage of 0.6v; 3v might be for some zener diodes?. Either way, for the 1N4148 diode used in the video, it has a forward voltage of 0.4-1.2v so it doesn’t really change the calculation much (Bcs we’re engineers and we like to make mathematicians mad… e=3=pi). Good catch though and good luck on your build! (If you’re 3D printing make sure you carefully read the 3D modeler’s description for proper print settings to save you some… headaches lol)
@@PeTr01 Sorry for the misunderstanding i was not talking about normal diods to prevent ghosting.I was talking abot backlight part blue and white lds normally have Vf of 3v-3.5v and on your current limiting resistors in your calculation you put 5v (5v/1.8kohm*104 led's=288.88889mA) (10:31time in video) It should probably be 2v/1.8kohm*104 led's=155.55555mA and original formula for backlight current wold be 2V/2k ohm =1mA (per led) instead od 5V/2kohm= 2.5mA (per led) (3:55 time in video) Tldr: formula for backlit current :(V(source) - Vf( led) )/R(current limiting resistor)* N( number of led's)= I (backlight) If you wanna talk about this my discord is: "Punomsni Džem#1688"
The hinge just broke on the right ear side of mine. I know that the ones you have there are beat up but mine are mint condition and well cared for. Should have realized why they were on sale at Lond..drugs for $99. I think you’re right about the rage quit because you can’t keep wearing them after one side breaks.
Interesting, they must’ve seen a hairline crack starting and after a while it must’ve went. Yeah just give the ABS glue trick a try and it should be fine, you wanna have it mixed to the consistency of normal glue, you can find ABS from most older electronics, I sourced mine from an old printer tray, it should say ABS and melt pretty quick (or buy some small couplings from a hardware store) you don’t even need to take it apart that much depending on where the crack is, best of luck!
