Thanks for this knowledge article - very timely, given my current challenge. Some questions: are self-drilling screws "one shot" affairs, namely once drilled in, they should not be backed out in order to add something to the screws (like a hook or piece of wood or metal) to then re-attach into the original drill hole? In the same vein, when attaching metal pieces to metal, do both layers of metal have to be self-drilled and thus both tapped, or can the first piece be pre-drilled slightly larger in screw diameter (using an ordinary metal drill), then held in place by self-drilling into the holding piece? I'll be working at height in confined quarters so any advance work I can do in the workshop before tackling the final install on-site would be very beneficial. Thanks in advance... Tom
Hello, Thank you for your interest in our products. Yes, self-drilling screws are "one shot" affairs, namely once drilled in, they should not be backed out in order to add something to the screws (like a hook or piece of wood or metal). When attaching metal pieces to metal, there are two options: both layers of metal have to be self-drilled and thus both tapped - the total thickness of both pieces MUST not exceed the drill capacity of the screw. the first piece can be pre-drilled slightly larger in screw diameter (using an ordinary metal drill), then held in place by self-drilling into the holding piece. In this case, the drill capacity of the screw will only be for the second (base/holding) metal piece. Advice: Choosing the length and size of the screw is very important. The correct length of the screws for the job is = Total thickness of both metal pieces + 3 thread lengths + the drill point. e.g. If you would be using a #12-14, #3 point screw, the total thickness of the two plates is 3 mm + 3 thread lengths (5.5 mm) + drill point (6.5 mm) then the length of the screw should be at least (3 + 5.5 + 6.5) = 15mm…UCAN sells a 5/8 length screw for this. Please note that #3 screws can drill MAX 1/4".
Can this product be used to secure a deck ledger. Wall is a 4 inch Block /4 inch brick wall sitting on. 10 inch block foundation wall. 1952 Block/brick home.
Hello, Thank you for your interest in our products. This application requires engineering design to evaluate what product would be suitable to support the ledger board to the brick/block wall.
What if I need to bolt a sill plate into the top of a cinderblock where the voids are? Essentially the adhesive will be stuck to the wood’s wall and in the void of the cinder block? Will this work?
The inside is completely hollow. What is holding the bolt in place? Is it just the connection near the outside where it first enters in doing all the work?
Hello, Thank you for your interest in our products. The mesh screen prevents the epoxy from filling the void (inside). This prevents wastage. The bond/connection is formed only between the screen/epoxy and the “wall” of the block where the two are in contact.
5 лет назад
All that time just to say he glued a threaded rod in a block....
Dear Customer: Thank you for your interest in our products. Training in the safe use of all powder actuated (PAT) tools, such as the LV470K, is essential. Furthermore, the user must obtain a license, specific to UCAN tools, to operate the LV470K. Unfortunately, a video alone is not sufficient. Please contact your local UCAN distributor for details about training and licensing.
