Mostly about woodworking with a sliding table saw for the non-professional woodworkers. There doesn't seem to be much about sliders in the US. I will be featuring a Hammer B3 from the Felder-Group out of Austria.
I'll be exploring how to use a shaper that is part of the B3. I've never used one.
I'll cover other shop-related topics such as tools & technics.
And projects! There will be projects!
What there won't be: Grand claims of Greatest Tool, Must Have, Amazing Whatever. No click-bait here.
Please subscribe! Videos will come out occasionally.
The name of this channel comes from an expression that my Dad frequently used on wood projects: "Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut it with an ax."
Well done man , I was looking for something like that , I might use two small casters that I already have (not like the one you used ) they are wheels with ball bearing and axel bolt and the plate and make the the wood wider than the one you used , instead of 1x1 to 2x2 to holds the caster plate . Keep up the good work .
Hi,I have a machine just like yours, ( but in Argentina ) it will be possible that mine does not have the piece you took off to place the dado set ? Do you know if only the versions of machines for the United States have it? because mine apparently can't be removed...it's like a single piece..Thank you for your comments ! greetings
So, it's been a year since you got it. Would you but this again? I am ready to purchase either this on the Oneida V3000. Really need it for my Powermatic PM1500 bandsaw I just purchased recently. I prefer the Harvey form factor over the Oneida. Have you done any dust measuring in your shop with this set up?
The best thing about owning a Hammer woodworking machine? Is the day you sell it. They are vastly overpriced, vastly, poor quality, and the only thing worse than anyone, is the notion that you will, and I guarantee you will, have to get in touch with a customer service department and talk to some guy who wii immediately make childish excuses about why your machine arrived broken , (7 out if 7 that i know of personally), and who has no idea what he’s what he’s talking about . it is simple: save yourself a mountain of headaches and di NOT buy a hammer
Thanks for sharing. Minor nit, why do use a decibel meter when the unit is running but also when other machines are operating at the same time to give the test(s) real world application?
Felder clamp works best with the pad height ~4mm above the material. You can make a shim of appropriate size and it should be relatively easy to clamp and unclamp. I had these on Felder FD250 horizontal boring machine and they are fine for that but I think they are only useful on slider when you can leave them in one place, like in a dedicated factory setup. I did not like them because the handle is longer than the pad length. Meaning when I unclamp the handle hits the material. Once in a while, I would loose grip of the handle while unclamping and it would hit the material. I kept denting soft woods. Someone suggested that I flip the round puck which changed the movement - to clamp move lever down, to unclamp move lever up. This worked for me but when I made pneumatic clamps for my slider I just adapted them for the FD250.
Hi! The arbor on my B3 is what the factory ships. I wasn't given a choice at the time of my order. It's a 30mm with two locking posts. Once I found some blade manufactures, it hasn't been a problem finding something that works. For special blades, such as my dado stack, it does up the price.
Your videos are very informative regarding the B3. I would love to see more, but I noticed you haven’t produced a new since 10/2020, I hope you make more!
Hi John, the past year has been difficult in my personal life. I have only done 2 projects in the last year. Now that I think my personal life is headed in a good direction, I plan on producing videos again. Thanks for the encouragement!
I haven't been very active in my shop. I only did two projects last year. I'm currently working on putting down 300sqft of hardwood flooring. The more difficult part is I need to shrink my shop a bit. I do have videos that I want to do. Stay tuned!
Are you still satisfied with your unit? Am looking at one for my shop. I have a large grizzly unit now, just don’t like cleaning the bags and the noise. I have a 30X40 shop with duct work to many units, just like you. I have a pre separator to take the large chips so only have to clean the bag filter. Would like your comment on how satisfied you are now with your purchase. Thank you in advance,Ralph.
I'm sorry about not replying sooner. I had a death in the family. To answer your question: Yes. Dust collection used to be a hassle and something I was always fussing with. Part of it was the dust collector, part was the ducting, or lack thereof. Now I only think about having the correct blast gate open. I definitely like not having my pre-separator. Is the G-700 perfect? No. But I find the dust bags much easier to empty and replace. While it's hard to say if it was the ducting or the G-700 that is giving me the biggest advantage, I'd repeat the purchase.
I had originally decided on the Oneida V 3000. I had looked at their other offerings and had chosen that model. Part of the decision was the form factor. It fits into my shop really easily. The V 3000 took a lot of vertical space. I like the rollout bin and built-in remote. It's working really well for me, but everyone's setup and needs are different.
I just brought my new G700 into the basement last month. Great machine delivered on a very weak pallet. The cardboard was so good I saved it! Still working out the plan for ducting. Would love to get your thoughts on the ducting decision process.
Congrats on your new machine. Yes, the pallet is more of a suggestion that it's a pallet than an actual pallet. For the ducting, I've only done this once, so I'm not feeling qualified to say. I will give my opinions, though: Don't go to the ceiling if you don't have to; if you are trying to save some cost and don't mind moving a short length of hose, share ends so you don't need as many "Y"s and blast gates (I share one end with the saw & shaper, another with the planer, bandsaw and belt sander); keep any future purchases in mind when planning; don't use "T" connections (you want your corners to be as gentle as possible)
In order to attached the parallel fence you had to use a wrench, it doesn’t come with a Kipp lever or knob to tighten down the support table? I could have sworn I saw it with a knob at least. Thx
It would be nice, but not on my units. There is very little clearance around the bolt head. Probably about 90 degrees worth of pivot space. The bolt is 3/8" x 4". Could be 5/16". I can't remove the bolt to measure as there is a retaining washer holding it in. Perhaps the ones for the Felder line have them as the table profile is different. If I get an opportunity, I'll show it in a future video.
Are you still happy with the DRO parallel fence? Is it sometimes finicky to get the exact measurement dialed in? Looks like it could almost use a micro adjust feature. I’m shopping for a parallel fence now, just wanting to find out info on them. Thx
Hi TW, I am satisfied with the DRO on the parallel fence. My fence comes off and on fairly often, so it's easy to recalibrate. I've gotten reasonably good with getting it set to where I want it by placing my fingers on the bar against the DRO housing and slightly rolling (or squeezing) my fingers. When you tighten the setting, it may move 2-3 thousandths of an inch (1-2 hundredths of a mm in metric mode), but in woodworking, that's usually close enough. I've seen other shop made parallel fences on RU-vid. One that comes to mind was made with an Incra fence on a table extension on the slider. The downside is the price. It would make sense for a professional. For the average hobbyist, it's a bit hefty.
@@CutitwithaHammer I haven’t used my large hold down clamp supplied by Felder yet, do you ever find this causing movement of the moving material as you set the clamp down on the material? Thx
No, I have not. As another viewer pointed out, the further you make the clamp 'reach', the easier it is to apply the clamp. The clamp applies a lot of force. I will see a bit of movement with the DeWalt clamps I show in the clamp video. This is probably due to these clamps not being vertical when I'm applying pressure.
Interesting. You are the second RU-vidr to report a broken paddle. I wonder if Harvey will start a) making it more robust, and b) putting a "full" alarm on the smaller dustbox too.
Well, thanks for the demonstration, but this reminds me of what Voltaire said about the Holy Roman Empire: It's neither holy nor roman, and it's not an empire. This parallel fence is not parallel, and it is not a fence. It is an expensive stop, with an unnecessarily sensitive readout. In your video, you kept the work piece parallel to the blade by using the front miter fence (you actually stopped to check the square, and you made sure that the flip stop was engaged), and you kept the work piece in that position by using the eccentric clamp. In other words, technically you never had a parallel fence during the whole cut. Yes, you had a digital reading, but you could've used the scale on the front miter fence for the same purpose. You would be better off if you use _both_ the miter fence _and_ the rip fence that came with the sliding table saw to your advantage. In this case they complement each other to give you an edge over the traditional table saw. If you search youtube, you would find many people who went to great length to build jigs just to accomplish the first cut, yet for a slider the first cut is a most natural cut that requires no jig and no setup. The final dimension would then be set by the rip fence. This is the best of the two worlds, and I think you're trying a little too hard living in the world left to the blade. :-) Best of luck.
Hi Se! Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful comment. You made a lot of valid points. I do make a lot of use of the rip fence. It depends on the size of the piece and how much I'm taking off. The bigger part is always on the slider. One could do the some of the same things with a block of wood that comes to a point. I may not find a use for the parallel fence that can't be done almost as easily (or more easy) in another way. I have a couple table projects coming up that will require a lot of tapers, so we'll see when I start doing those. Living left of the blade is one of the goals of the channel. :)
@@CutitwithaHammer I have owned a K3 for many years and never use the rip fence unless forced to. In fact I don't have a rip fence on the saw at all just a 300mm short piece of fence which is used as a bump stop to measure the required off cut. To suggest using the rip fence is to ignore the whole concept of a slider, this is not a cabinet saw and should not be used that way. One thing I have also learned is that there is very little reason to use clamps and I rarely do.
Usually on a dado stack, the outside blades have two different types of teeth: flattop and angled. The angled tooth is to reduce chipout when the stack exits the board or panel. For that to be effective, those teeth have to be just a little bit longer than the flattop teeth. In most cases, only you will see this (most people won't). Especially in larger projects. In small projects, it may be more apparent. If you want to eliminate the bat wings, you can: use a blade with all flattop teeth and make multiple cuts; use a router; or clean up after the dado stack with a router plane. Some manufacturers also create Box Joint stacks which don't have angled teeth. I also get bat wings on my groover heads for my shaper.
I have a G700 and modified to cleanout ports for much easier cleaning. I used two POWERTEC 70105 4" elbows and pushed them into the ports by hearing the ports with a heat gun to allow them to fit, taped around the connection and then used hose clamps since the elbows would only go in the ports about an inch. From there I used two short pieces of 4" hose to a POWERTEC 70275 3-Way Dust Collection Fitting. I capped the bottom of the Y using the Harvey 4" to 2" reducer that came with the G700. I used a Rockler Dust Right 4" Tool Port on top and capped with a 4" EPDM cap I bought at a big green box store. The toughest part, after installing a wood spacer to the Y fitting with a clamp, was feeding a couple of bolts to nuts behind the perforated metal. I have a long needle nose pliers that was just long enough to reach the bolts. Taking the G700 apart to access the inside of the perforated side looked like way too much work. Now, all I have to do is connect one of my 4" hoses from the G700 intake to the one connection on the clean outs. No more crawling around on my hands and knees.
Thank you very much for sharing. I thought about something similar, but where my unit needed to go started to encroach upon a doorway. The extra 6 or so inches would have been a problem. Perhaps if I ever move to a new shop I can do this. Thanks again!
@@CutitwithaHammer This mod will definitely be a benefit since I'm not as nimble as I used to be! I think Harvey should offer this type of setup as an add-on. Kind of an awkward cleanout procedure the way it is. Being an easier option now, I'll clean the filters more often and hopefully extend the filters life as it looks long and difficult to change out them out plus the expense. I couldn't find a 4" splitter for dust collectors that was symmetrical, so although the POWERTEC 70275 has an unnecessary extra port, it serves it's purpose, cheap, and it's easy to find. Using two pieces of flex hose certainly made the angled connections easier than with hard pipe. I moved from a Jet 1.5 HP dust collector to the G700 and the difference in suction seems to be a lot more than the extra 1/2HP. I primarily bought the Harvey for the HEPA filters and less noise and I'm very happy so far.
Hi Mikhail! I have an 8" Laguna Parallelogram (discontinued) that I purchased about 6 years ago. It's been replaced by their new JX|8. It was my first 'big' machine in that it came on a pallet and required me to install 220v in my garage.
@@CutitwithaHammer 40 years a cabinet maker. I have my industrial glues i have depended on for a long time. I buy it in 20 liter pails. Have a damp cloth ready. if your not wiping up glue your not using enough.
Hi Coffee, I don't think you can get a new arbor as this is specified when the machine is ordered. If you can get Felder to sell you one, it would be a major undertaking to replace it.
Thank you for putting this video together. Do you plan to make a follow on video in a few months? I’m asking as I’m slowly building my own shop and slowly acquiring tools. I’ve been looking around to see what the best options are for dust collection and its seems to be steering me towards the Harvey for a few factors such as its semi-compact profile, proclaimed silence, an ease of use to emptying the bin. I’ll have to agree with the other comments that the site seems to undercut the dealers and other websites. But finding this video and honest feedback seems to be quite helpful. Before I close this out there is another RU-vid video where the guy tied the two cleaning ports to a Y contraption he concocted to clean the system. But not sure how much better that works or not. But I appreciate any analytical feedback as you have done here just helps to make the best decisions the first tile and cry once, hopefully.
Hi JB, I will probably do a follow up review. But it probably won't be for a while. I haven't been in the shop much recently and we're fast approaching winter when there'll be a few months where it's too cold to be out in the shop. I did see the video of the Y-adaptor. I thought about doing the same, but that would add extra length to the unit and it's already partially blocking a doorway. I do have some ideas for fixing the clean-out ports, but I'm wanting to use it stock for a while. If I do, there will certainly be a video about it. Thanks for your comment!
I have this same machine and a few things I will say. 1) you should not be getting that large of chips in the last dust collection area with the red knobs. My first bin is very large chips and then primarily thick dust after that and super fine dust in the last ports on the ground. 2) When the overfill alarm goes off...you can simply open the area with the dust bins and it will turn the alarm off and reset itself...no need to turn the power off in the back and reset it. 3) I see a lot of videos of people who buy this machine using straps and all kinds of contraptions to get it off the pallet. The machine is actually not that heavy and can be picked up on one side...lifted off the pallet and then same for the other side. I am 50 years old and did this myself but I also lifted my powermatic jointer head onto the stand myself. I would say to at least attempt this without hurting yourself prior to going through all the contraptions so lift it off. At least worth a try. I would agree that this unit is just as loud as my previous 2hp harbor freight/onidea combination. Lastly, the thing I hate the most about this machine is how the price fluctuates upwards of $1000 on any given day. I bought mine when they had a sale and literally an hour after the sale was over...they lowered the price $300 and would not compensate me even though I had just bought the machine 2 hours earlier...during the sale! They also sell it anywhere from $2100 to $3100 on their site but then allow woodcraft and other places to sale it for almost 5k. They undercut their distributors and make it look like woodcraft and other places are ripping us of...because they are. That whole business model of selling their equipment literally makes no sense and leaves a bad taste in your mouth and I'm not the only one to voice this opinion. They also had a shaper listed on sale for $2500 on their site but every time I added it to the cart to pay...it went to $2,990 and then back again to $2500 when I removed it. I contacted them and they told me I missed the sale....even though I took a screen shot of the price listed on their site. One hand doesn't know what the other hand is doing at Harvey. I see them as a fairly shady business that makes some pretty good equipment. If there is this many issues with them selling a product...it just makes me wonder what kind of issues there will be when I have a serious warranty issue beyond a $5 prop that you had. Maybe none..who knows. But in my opinion...this is just another dust collector. Looks cool...but it collects dust no better and no worse than others in this same price range. I was going to buy a 3hp bandsaw from them but just elected to buy somewhere else do to the buying hassle and them playing the price manipulation game with their customers. Just a few thoughts when dealing with Harvey as a whole. Most of the shinning reviews on youtube are almost ALL from people who got a machine for free so were basically paid $2500 to do a review - take that for what we all know it is. As stated, I already have this machine but I still appreciate and respect the HONEST "paid with my own money" review.
Hi Garry, Thanks for the comment. I agree about 1), I was overloading the chip separator. As for 2), I don't remember the details at this point. The second time I filled it, the alarm sounded when the last of the chips came in. I will be following up on that. I certainly could be wrong. That happens a lot. :) The primary reason for getting an engine hoist was to get over the part of the pallet that was built up to attach the unit to the pallet. I did get my Laguna 8" jointer off its pallet by myself. The engine hoist itself is heavy. If I hadn't already had experience using the hoist for my planer and table saw, I might have strong-armed it. I would definitely agree that the price moves more than the stock market. If I had a sales relationship with Harvey, I'd probably be a bit annoyed at the pricing. If I had to pay much more than I did, I probably would have gone with my first choice.
@@CutitwithaHammer same here...all good points and again...great review. Very few reviews anymore of people who paid with their own money. People try and pass off to us that when they are given upwards of a $50,000 in free equipment (April Wilkinson) and quickly change every piece of equipment you own from your last sponsor to your new...that your reviews are anything but biased. They are nothing more than paid advertisement. Keep up the great channel.
I read that if you set the blower speed too high when say planing, the amount of material coming into the G700 is too fast and larger chips can get by the first bin and into the second with finer debris getting into the filters. It was suggested to set the speed at 50-55 for planing but it depends on the air draw at your planer port. Will need to play around some to see what works best for a particular setup.
I'm pretty much recovered. My recovery was fairly fast, according to my PT guy. Still a bit limited reaching up my back, but I'd say 97% recovered. Thanks for asking!
I have a Dust Right 600CFM unit with a 4" super dust deputy on a 15 gallon drum. All run through hose in a one-car. My jointer has bogged down a few times as my system can't clear chips fast enough. My jointer and planer fill the drum fast and its a pain to empty the drum and the hanging plastic bag. Wondering if this unit might be the best solution, given I could build a floating extension on my SawStop PCS TS that would cover most of this unit. My TS is on a mobile base too.
I had a 35 Gal trashcan as a chip separator in my old setup. It was hard to empty into one of those paper yard waste bags. The large bag on this unit is a bit easier to empty. Milling is going to fill up everything fairly quickly. The bag full alert is nice. I'd forget to keep an eye on the old setup and start filling the bag in the Jet unit.
@@CutitwithaHammer excellent point. It'd be amazing to have an alert when the bin is full. Now when I'm milling my own stock, I either keep opening the separator to check or I forget it and then fills up the filter and the dust bag.
I originally was going to get the Oneida V-System 3000. I also compared the V-System to the Supercell, the CFM is quite a bit different. I know that CFM can be misleading, but from the same manufacturer, I would expect the CFM to be comparable. Perhaps a call to Oneida would clear things up
I'd say Yes. I am still in the honeymoon period. It fits the space I need. It's a big improvement in dust collection, but part of that is also going to the metal ducting.
@@CutitwithaHammer - Got things setup and it’s well built at the very least. It’s a lot higher quality than either the Jet or Laguna stuff I’ve had in the past. The maximum sound levels at 7500 are louder than I was expecting, but when you back it off it quiets down nicely. Using a Reed Sound Meter I measured 65dBA@4500, 73dBA@5500 & 82dBA@7500 all at 10’. All of the measurements are below the OSHA hearing guidelines, but like you I will wear hearing protection anyway as I’m more concerned with annoying neighbors.
I live in an end-unit of a townhouse and I usually have my garage doors closed. None of my neighbors have complained and I've asked a few. I do have a neighbor who uses a miter saw a lot during the day as she has an Esty store. Another has a contractor's TS that they use on occasion in the driveway. They make more noise than I do. I think you'll be fine. I also don't start before 9am on a Saturday or noon on Sunday and rarely go later than 8 in the evening.
I'm slightly struggling to hear the narration, partly because of the music, but mainly due to the lack of higher frequencies in the recording (for whatever reason). Slightly clearer and slower would help, I think. The content is good, and useful though :)
Gluing two boards where the grain runs perpendicular to each other is usually avoided because wood swells and shrinks across the grain based on the moisture in the wood. This will eventually break the glue bond. Normally, it may not be an issue in a project of this size, but these boards were very wet. Since I've put these out on the deck, each board has contracted about 1/4" in width.
Does this cut require the hold-down clamp? And what are you thinking is causing the burning? Normally I'd think about alignment issues. Do you get it if your fence is retracted further?
I think clamps are a good idea. It's all about the amount of risk you're willing to take. With a traditional saw, I would sometimes clamp a board to the miter fence. That was always awkward at best. With a slider, it's easy to do and I use clamps based on my perceived risk. There are some factors to consider: the weight of the piece; where on the board is the blade making contact (I keep a high blade, so the force is generally downward, not horizontally against the board); what would happen if something did go wrong (where it's probably more about having another piece in case this one becomes a mistake ;) ). I just did a project where I cut up a bunch of pine 1 x 6s and I didn't use a clamp at all. But I did hold the boards down with some bodyweight. Would it have been enough had the blade caught? I don't know. I think I've only had one incident with this saw where the blade wanted to kick my workpiece and it was an error on my part (I don't remember the details). As for the burn mark: the burn was at the beginning of the cut, so did the board pivot slightly (around the clamping point) as the blade entered the workpiece? Then I made the same mistake twice on pushing against the miter fence and there was enough force from the blade to cause the rotation? Possibly, but unlikely. The rip fence is toe-out, last time I checked and if it was toe-in, I might expect the burn mark to be a bit longer. Might it also be the structure of the piece? Since the burn mark follows the tree ring along the sapwood/heartwood interface and not the curve of the blade, this might be the best answer. Who knows for sure. Thanks for the questions.
@@peterwoodward2554 That is also a possibility. With my old tablesaw, that would happen a lot since it didn't have a riving knife. With the slider, I can cut faster and with a more consistent speed which also helps to reduce burn marks.
