Based out of Toronto, Canada and father of 2, I am computer engineer gone rogue. Woodworking has been a side hobby for more than a decade but finally I've decided to build my own space to build. My teachings have come from many RU-vid mentors including Stumpy Numbs, Bourbon Moth Woodworking, The Wood Whisperer, Rob Cosman, Shop Nation, April Wikerson, Jonathan Katz-Moses, Scott Walsh, Kings Fine Woodworking, Steve Ramsey, WoodWorkWeb, Izzy Swan, Lincoln St. Woodworks, Fisher's Shop, Charles Neil Woodworking, and many more... Thank you for teaching me and many other your art!
Join my journey as I build my small workshop from scratch and focus on projects that YOU can build for your work space. Hopefully, I’ll inspire you to keep coming back for more.
Most planners I’ve worked with are 12 inches and wider. Usually jointers are 6 - 8 inches; but… I guess you could alter the plans to make it fit a 6 inch planer as well. By the way can you share the model number and manufacturer for your planer? I’ve never seen one that small before.
Ohhhh I see; fair question… the height of this jig is 3.5 - 3.75 inches (depending on how much to raise or lower the levellers) thus you will still be able to run a 2 inch board easily. If you have boards that are thicker, you might need to make the jig a little bit smaller in height.
What a great idea! I unfortunately didn’t prepare the CNC plans but don’t think it would take too much to create it; if you do end up making it please share a link and I’ll pin that comment on top of this video.
All tools should be made with a heavy duty 6 inch cord only sticking up to keep a connecting cord up out of the working area. No need fo all these cords
Good one, and cheers for the explanation, I was wondering what the smoky haze was in a couple of the shots. Great idea for the cnc, I'm sick of using clamps on mine so have started investigating how a vacuum top might work. 👍
@woodfather great attention to detail! The vacuum pump releases a mist when it’s creates a seal and I address this at end of the video with an easy fix - start watching from 10:20 in the video Glad you enjoyed the build/video and hope this helps with your cncing as well.
Very nice. I have been looking at setting up a vacuum table on my cnc. I'm just trying to figure out how to stop dust and chips from getting sucked down the vacuum tubes
Haven’t noticed this to be a problem as yet because the one that’s actually sucking is sealed which is why the board isn’t moving… glad to told me I’ll keep a close eye on it and if there is an issue I’ll put out a follow up video on it; cheers!
@RVWoodworks I was thinking more when you cut through. I have seen a few videos with them, but I think they leave a tiny sliver of material and finish off with a box cutter then sand flush
Aside from playing the best game man has invented…..you have performed a good service to us woodworkers here….does your game match your innovation presented here-haha! Would you roughly be able to give the cost of the add on items you used? Not the cost of the vacuum itself. This is pretty cool as as you say, the ones commercially available are pricey. Thanks for the efforts to show this.
Haha, I wish my game matched my woodworking but nonetheless it’s such an amazing sport and hope to never step away from it! Regarding costs… if you do a direct line without a 5 port manifold the cost will be close to $50ish depending on the pressure gauge that you choose but with the manifold it came out around $120ish. I think the extra investment was worth it for my CNC. Thanks again for tuning in and glad you enjoyed the video; please follow for more videos in the future.
Am I missing something! I can't see how this is going to work with a "cupped" board? You are still going to have to wedge one side. Well, on second thought ... I suppose you can double up the number of leveling bars and use them in pairs to be able to raise both sides simultaneously to deal with the cup. Thoughts?
I looked at getting the MaxXT as a replacement for Mirka sanders at my job, because the Mirkas die all the time. It had a bad bearing right off the bat, so the pad wobbled and the bearing got very hot. Also, they use less common thread on their pads, so it is harder to get firmer/softer replacements. It is also very bulky and heavy compared to the 3M and Mirka. I wouldn't want to use it on anything but a flat surface. They also use an o-ring and grease at the top of the pad to help dust extraction but I think it will get very messy over time. They do have good customer support though if you don't mind waiting for the time delay between the US and China. I have heard the 3M sanders have had the same problem as the Mirkas, but 731 Woodworks said they have a new version that is supposed to take care of the issue. I wonder if the Festool ETS EC 125/3 would be the best bet for a brushless sander, since I haven't heard of issues with them dying and the price is similar to the 3M. Sometimes the Rotex 6" can be had for a good deal used, if jobs mainly consist of large flat surfaces.
