Thank you for visiting My Engineering Projects channel. I am the Mad Scientist Guy. You don't have to be a Mad Scientist to follow along but of course I think it helps.
Here you will explore fun and interesting science topics with real world applications. I'll explain in detail science topics and also demonstrate the fundamentals with easy DIY projects. Recently I've been focusing on astronomy which has been a life long interest of mine.
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I’m wary of shooting directly at a screen because of pixels. I would rather diffuse the light with sheets of paper. And I can control the exposure by how many sheets of paper I use.
Most likely it's a connection issue at the motor or the board. Look carefully at the plug and make sure it's correctly installed and all the way in. Try to move the z-axis from the menu commands as well.
@@MyEngineeringProjects I'll try connection but I think I made a firmware mistake as stated in video because my stepper goes up but not down and after much investigation I may have had a preset file still on sd when I tried installing new firmware that may be the issue. Any thoughts?
@@MyEngineeringProjects It worked extremely well. The only change I made is using a IR temp gun to monitor the board temp as it heated up. But the old LED board is up and running again. On the cheap :)
Genuinely curious, why does it take your calibration so long? Mine usually takes 5 mins or less- perhaps I am doing something wrong. Also, is RA Aggr supposed to be higher than DEC Aggr? I am wondering if this will help improve my guiding.
I'd have to go back to the video and check my step size. If the step size is small, it takes a long time to calibrate. I think the default is 2000. As far as the setting for RA and DEC, I set these for the best tracking and pay no attention to which one is larger. I just want the best resutls.
I don't understand the symbols in the question, but it goes in the reverse order it was removed. I don't have this telescope anymore so I cannot check the lens.
That would be a fun project. At this point you would need a board that contains Ascom drivers and then it could work with Astroberry or maybe with an AsiAir or something like that but it would be fairly difficult.
When you say manually turn the extruder, are you saying by hand or by the manual feed feature in the software? If by hand then you might have an issue with the extruder. If not, then the issue is somewhere else.
It’s spinning and it’s hitting the element, but it’s just kind of making an annoying like scraping sort of mechanical sounding sound and no element is coming out. It’s also not moving the element into the extruder
That sounds like it's jammed at the spool. Can you manually unthread the spool? You might also try to take off the tube on the extruder and just see if it will pull it at least to that point.
@@MyEngineeringProjects I have to buy a new thing of filament because that’s pretty old filament. I have to make sure it’s not the filament thank you though.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Thanks for the video, it's very helpful as a novice doing this stuff. Can I ask why you only have 3 bed clips on the print bed in this video instead of 4? Is this a glass bed? And is there an optimal position to place the clips with regard to the CR touch? Thanks :)
Yes it's a glass plate. The 4th clip caught on something and fell off. I need to replace it. 2 in the front and 2 in the back about how I have them works best for me.
Really similar. Be sure you have the EAF plugged into your PC [use power supply if 12 volt] then download and unZip the EAF_FWUpdate_win_v3.3.8.. Then Run ElectricDeviceFWUpdate_3.3.8.exe. If it doesn't open then you have to install the Microsoft Visual C++ 2008 Redistributable Setup [run vcredist_x86]. Then open the Update screen and scan for the EAF, then Run. The update will proceed. Very similar to the above Mac version. It will verify the update, EAF Version 3.3.8 or similar.
Thanx for the Video. If I may ask, could one also add the Focuser to the Fine Tune/Gold Knob, by removing that one? Would that make the Focuser even smother/better? Many thanx.
Good question. The ZWO focuser is already geared down, so placing it on the fine focus knob is not necessary. They specifically designed it to go on the course knob. It would probably work o the fine, but I have not tested it.
It worked. I do need to gear it down because this free refractor has no fine speed control. You can see the first test here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrAV25ZPZSQ.html
I’m so sad bc this just happened to my Ender3 and nothing is unplugged. I am so new to 3D printers I don’t know what to do and I’m under a deadline to get things printed too 😭😭 if you can help me please reply! X
First check to see if your limit switches are connected. you might also need to check to see if they are plugged in correctly at the board. One loose switch connection can cause this issue
I printed out the Hypatia Crayford on printables, and it works pretty well. It had a few issue I had to get around, making sure the heatsets are perfectly straight, and epoxying the knobs to the rod, as the grub screws slipped real easily, though my rod was stainless. Cutting the aluminum strips was also a bit of a pain, because you can't have it bend or curl, and it needs to be straight to fin into the depressions in the tube, a Dremel was too hard to keep straight, so a small hacksaw worked great for that. It is working fine for me now, though the collet slips out of the main screw cap, making it a requirement to forcefully pull the eyepiece out on occasion, but I think that is a printing issue, as I had one iteration of the cap and collet that worked fine, til I dropped it down a mountain.
Not sure what version you are using, but for V2 Try navigating to Prepare which is the top right, then going down to the A symbol which is just below the temperature symbol, then you should be able to find English. For other versions this would be different.
Great video and thanks! The other night I was going through the guiding process when I got an error stating "backlash clearing failed: Star did not move enough". Guiding would not complete successfully - any idea what might have caused this issue?
Try to increase the step size. During the calibration process, the ASIAir will command the scope to move a bit over and over. If it does not move enough to detect a change of position, the calibration process may fail. From memory I think mine is set to 2000 but I would have to confirm.
@@MyEngineeringProjects - Just checked my step setting and it also says 2000. I did recently insert a different camera, so I'll try resetting as you mentioned in your video.
Yes very good idea. I had the same issue where I forgot to re-calibrate when I swapped cameras. Guiding failed until I deleted the calibration and started over.
This is likely a firmware issue. You might have the wrong version installed for your board. Double check your board and the version you downloaded from Creality's site.
I would try a different version of the firmware. Their website that has the downloads is really hard to navigate. Also, check the board version number and make sure it matches the firmware you downloaded.
It would be challenging to do this. If you simply tried to scale the STL, then it would make everything bigger such as the nut holders and holes for the rods. This would break the design. One option is to import the model into CAD and then keep connectors the same but increase the size of the mirror holder and related parts.
@@MyEngineeringProjects I was also thinking it would make parts too large for most 3d printers. Would maybe have to divide them into the smaller pieces.
