Hey there! I am Anika Gandhi, and I am here to Demystify DIY. I am here to inspire and empower beginner DIYers and woodworkers to gain the confidence to use power tools and build anything they want.
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Thank so much for this! This was exactly what I needed! I’m trying to DIY an acoustic skyline diffuser which means a bunch of 2x2 pieces and buying 2x2 boards was going to make it crazy expensive.
Very interesting. Plain water would have been a good control to compare against the other liquids. If does depend on whether the paint was water soluble though.
I use mineral turpentine or lacquer thinners for oil-based/enamel paints. For water-based paints, a simple wash under the tap.For tough ones, soaking the brush in hot water and washing powder.
Thanks so much for doing that experiment! This is really good to know! I would guess that most households have isopropyl alcohol in their medicine cabinet and it's super inexpensive. You're a dear!
How about white spirit? That is what I use for cleaning my brush right after painting, but never tried after the paint has dried on the brush. So not sure.
I cannot tell you how glad I am that I found your channel. I didn’t know where to start with power tools and woodworking, but I wanted to do so many projects around my house that simply haven’t gotten done because my partner isn’t as interested in getting them done lol so I knew I needed to learn all about woodworking and power tools, your channel is a godsend. I plan on watching every single video you’ve ever made. Thank you so much for putting the time in to do this to educate us.
What type of nail gun would you recommend for securing OLD natural wood door and baseboard trims that have come loose, but don't want to crack the wood and try to hide putty after?
Thank you!! My husband passed away last year, so I am the handy woman now. At 65 yrs. old, I am loving to learn new things. You are so talented with teaching:)
Of course not. All of the lumber used in general construction is measured before final planing so it comes out 1/2" smaller than it's sold as. 2x6s are 1.5 x 5.5. Would be cumbersome to call everything by the actual final dims.
@@invictusbp1prop143 Sir, that will be $10. Pays $6. Sir, that's only $6, it costs $10. Yeah, I know, it was $10 when I earned it. So it's $10 with the income tax removed.
The Imperial System itself is a joke. But you guys get screwed over twice. You buy (in inch) 2x2 and get 1.5x1.5 🤣 If I go out and buy (in mm) 40x80 I get it up to a tolerance of ±2mm.
Do you, like me, feel the video maker is not very good with measurements or subtraction of wasted material from the original timber dimensions? lol I think the metric equivalent is 100mm x 50mm or there abouts, 1" is 25.45mm if I remember correctly. The + or - 2mm is to allow for moisture content. We must not forget that even the imperial measurements used by the americans is somewhat different to original British imperial sizes and weights which started being phasing out in the 1970's with decimalisation conversion. p.a.r. 4" x "2 is roughly 3 3/4" x 1 3/4" rough sawn 4" x 2" should measure 4" x 2" give or take a little for moisture.
That's not the fault of the imperial system, but rather how lumber was sold historically. 2x4s (and 2x2s) start as 2" by 4" unfinished. This is how they were sold for a long time, but finishing them was your job which is inconvenient. So nowadays (since about 1960s) the things you buy are finished for you which means they go through a planer which shaves off the rough sides. That means a finished 2x2 or 2x4 is not 2" any more. Whether you plane it yourself or buy preplaned, the end result is 1.5" by 3.5" (2x4) or 1.5"x1.5" (2x2), the lumber mills just save you the work of doing the planing step yourself on your 2x4/2x2.
@@tylisirn I wasn't blaming the measurement system in any way, they are just units what ever system used. Sawn timber is still available in places, p.a.r. was an option and then an extra way for more coin to be removed from buyers pockets. One excuse was for HnS was safety thing to to reduce splinters 😂 I've been playing and working with wood since a kid in the 70's, things have changed in many ways. Why you need to plane timber for the construction industry beats me, finishing, cabinet making, furniture n such yes, that said most timber needs squaring before use in those trades which negates the p.a.r. timbers like the mentioned sizes here. Im not in disagreement with you though with what you repeating to me after I've already pointed out how it is. Bless you though 👍🙂👍
@@tylisirnAt least that’s the marketing pitch big lumber came up with years ago to sell us 1.5 x 3.5 as 2x4. Stumpy put out a video on this topic 12 days ago.
I think you need to learn a little bit about nominal and actual measurements before talking about my measurement and subtraction. And yes, in the US, we get wood with dimensions that are not exactly what they are labeled as and that is something you learn to use and work with.
That's just a dumb thing to say. I feel sorry for any contractor that ever does any work for you. Do you think you're paying for 4" wide boards and only getting 3 1/2" wide boards so you're getting shorted and your house is being built with smaller lumber than it should be so it's not as well built as it would be if you'd gotten your full 4" wide studs? Would you want a discount because you were told that they were 2x6 exterior walls but they're really only 1 1/2 x 5 1/2? You got shorted so they need to go back and add another 1/2" to your walls??? C'mon man. Not everything is to screw customers over.
2x4s were historically sold raw and unplaned, forcing you to do the finishing yourself. When pre-planing became standard in 1960s it was still the same raw 2x4s, the lumber mills were doing you a favour saving you a step before using the lumber. Whether you plane it yourself or buy preplaned, the end result is 1.5" by 3.5".
@@Anikasdiylife well you can do the clever bit, you seem very wise 😉 Timber starts at 4" x 2" Each trimmed is squared, how much is the 4" width reduced by? Then you have the thickness of the saw cut down the centre! You can not cut wood without some loss, adding to that she claims to get 2 x 2" x 2" timbers from a 4" x 2" timber, oh but wait a moment part way through her explanation she says a lesser timber dimension. Likely loss of ¼" each side to square up then maybe ³/16" loss for the centre cut, so what is the total loss? ¼" + ¼" + ³/16" = ? Take that from the original 4" width and simply divide by 2 gives ? Does that help you a little bit 😉
@@fatbobfatbob you are clearly not a woodworker. The 4”x2” is the nominal size. The actual size for 4”x2” is 3.5” x 1.5”. Good job on writing the thesis though.
@@Anikasdiylife oww so her 2 chunks of 2" x 2" are even smaller 😂 The initial 4" x 2" was incorrect to begin with makes even more of a stupid pointless video. Oh like your comments, well done both of you I think a score out of 10 for you might be roughly 10 + ¼ + ¼ + ³/16 roughly. What makes think I'm not a wood worker or maybe a general builder? And look up what the word thesis actually means 😂
Oww before I go, 4" x 2" is the rough sawn dimension, not a nominal size, 4" x 2" p.a.r is likely what was being shown, I'll assume you know what p.a.r. means! 👍😉👍
Unfortunately, Kreg screws break very easily. At least, that's been my experience. I've put things together and take them apart a year or three later, only to find out that a percentage of the screws have broken at the joint (the shear-line of the joint). These fractures don't appear to be due to fatigue, rather they appear to be that of a brittle fracture. I suspect the screws are too hard/brittle. Certainly, any "construction screws" I've used (in place of Kreg brand screws) have never broken on any of my projects.
I have never had any screws break on me. I have been using Kreg screws for almost 13 years now. You should not use regular wood or construction screws with pocket holes or you won’t get a strong joint.
@Anikasdiylife I've got a close to two decades using Kreg pocket hole joinery, and I've only used the Kreg brand screws. I don't doubt your success with them. To be clear, I still use them, just not with anything that might see force, like a chair, table, bench, etc. Again, on more structural projects, I use construction screws. I tend to build things and later repurpose them, and I do it quite often. At one point, I used Kreg pocket hole joinery and screws for darn near everything I could, but the many autopsies have taught me my own personal lessons, which I can not ignore. On the point about using the wrong screw; an unbroken construction screw has to be stronger than a broken Kreg screw.
