No double shielded cables ? No earth ground buss for the shield drains of said cables ? No metal enclosure to reduce EMI. Not exactly a level up. More like a level down sorry.
Hey Tim, one of the the value props for the TEKNICS motors is that they do not require shielded cables and the other inputs to the Acorn controller are not affected other than the Ethernet connector which is indeed shielded
Hey, great to see - I have the same Reliant - from old TrendLines! I think I'll do the same - but I've had recent success retrofitting surplus 3-phase motors and 120V input VFDs on my drill press and lathe - so I'll likely do that to keep the same Beloit VFDs around, and less programming to remember.
@@eclecticbuilds1424 Love to post you a pic of my drill press VFD mod - but I think I'd have to upload a vid to my RU-vid account and then attach a link - or will RU-vid take like an IMGUR or Google pictures link? Also - what WIDTH & Thickness metal blades to you find work best? Anything there that would push my motor power either way?
Sorry- missed your response - still getting to grips with the slightly weird RU-vid comment management system. Try posting a JPG, that seems to work best for RU-vid, or send an email to andrew@eclectic-builds.com For metal cutting I am using a 1/2" bimetal blade - pay for a quality blade and keep them sharp - that had the best impact on motor power
Nice one!... two things I'd like to see: 1. A comparison of milling between mist and no mist (parameters: rates, wear, accuracy, surface finish) 2. A look at how you manage the increased moisture in your enclosure
Thanks for the info. I recently came upon some very nice linear axes that i'd like to make into a mill or maybe a printer. I've got some homework to do for sure
Your writing, editing, elocution and subject matter expertise are all high quality and very much appreciated. It is no exaggeration to say that you get the message across, with more detail and clarity than most in your domain. Many thanks!
Super content, great presentation and good timing as I am setting out to make one of these myself as one of the first projects on my very first CNC. One tiny plea, though, please consider dropping your background music another 6dB or so. It's low already but still competing a tad too much with your voice over for attention;). Having the music sit 15-20dB under your voice over track is a common rule of thumb but just listen to it with headphones and err on the side of too low and you'll be good. As for my own version and whilst I have never used an MQL system, I have sourced all the parts needed so that I don't have to use needle valves at all. I read a few too many posts from people saying they are fiddly. So, I went with the peristaltic pump option as e.g. Jorg from JBworx has a few videos on. I got a pump that can put out a really small amount of liquid and some precision pressure regulators so that I can independantly set pressures for the air as well as the coolant reservoir. I am not sure I will even need to pressurize the reservoir since I have a peristaltic pump but we will see. I have also bought a bunch of long Luer Lock needles that are used in dispensing machines for all sorts of liquids and can be had in many different sizes and lengths. But they won't have the smaller nozzle, so if that is important, I am not sure how well they will work. Anyhow, thanks so much for the video, looking forward to the next ones:)
Could i get a copy of the mill model? i've got the same model and while i've already converted mine to cnc, it will make designing my own upgrades so much easier, holy shit Just a .step file would be awesome I'm even willing to pay for it! a part i recently designed for the 728 was a bolt on mount so i can have a small high speed spindle attached on the side.
The download site video will be up in a couple of hours - but it looks like the F360 CAD files may have been corrupted - I am going to try to recover them from back over the next few days - sorry 😢
Good question - I dont have it to hand at the moment, but it was off Amazon - look for water filters Details will be in the system build video out in a couple of weeks
The patents is really insistent on a needle valve mixing chamber, so I just ran with that - the results have been good, but it takes a bit more machining effort
When using screw terminals, ferrules are a must. 7:55 You definitely do not want to solder the ends of the wires - the solder can creep over time and cause the pressure from the screws to release which is really bad for this sort of application.
yeah - I agree, b ut not everyone gets to choose - I think solder is stil better than bare ends but as you will notice through the build, all of mine use ferrules, and I really like the mechanical advantage, although if you have to double up in a block, they require a little more care
I just found your channel and I'm impressed with your version of your Mystbuster. Since you offered I would very much appreciate a copy of the prints so that I may try to build one for myself. Thanks very much for your time and efforts in creating your videos for us to learn from.
Closed loop stepper motors are also a choice. Not as accurate as servo's but if they lose steps in a movement they make them up at the end of that movement. This means if you are moving only on one axis all is well it will remain accurate. If you are moving on two or more axis then if only one stepper looses steps then it will make it up at the end but the result will not be exactly what you wanted.... So machining angles may be a concern, machining curves not so much - as they are made up of small straight movements so the amount of error only occurs on that one small movement. I haven't actually used any of these but that is the idea. If you can use servos, if you can't then closed loop steppers at least stop issues from compounding over the whole job. To see more also look at clough42 videos He did a great in depth look at all 3 types a while back. He also chose Clearpath servos. In fact on his surface grinder build went into the two types of the clearpath servos, so that he could overcome a dynamic issue he had.
Awesome - love the idea of here is the commercial version - but if you want to make it here is a make your own version... For those that can't get the pipe another option maybe 1/8" with 0.097" ID Copper. Obviously more bendable and I presume bends are bad...? The options available in the US - makes the rest of us jealous. 😀 And yes I'd love the plans
Thank you kind sir - prints are now up and available in the download video coming out tonight - ecletic-builds.com and look for the download area and prints
@@eclecticbuilds1424 That's great news, I will definitely have a peek at them, too. I do think my first versions will be resin printed, mainly because I have a resin printer some strong resin. If it works out in resin, I may not ever get around to making it in alu. I may just harness the advantages of resin printing in terms of designing internal features, such as air channels in a way we couldn't do with machining. Time will tell, but thanks so much for the videos - and the dive into the patent.
Thanks for these excellent videos! I am about to embark on a CNC conversion using the exact same components that you have chosen. Could you supply the CAD drawings in STL format? Also if you do a future video on this topic, could you detail the counterweight system for the Z axis? Any spreadsheets or data that you are willing to share would also be much appreciated. I look forward to seeing future videos and your projects.
Hey Mike, I am working on getting a new domain to share prints and files - I lost the original - hopefully in the next week or two I plan to to do a short video on the counterweight system but probably not for a month or so - there is a lot of footage queued up
You are certainly welcome to your own definitions, but what the series is claiming is a DIY CNC Mill, not a DIY Mill Do you have a pointer to the mill you built? I would love to see what you built and what construction techniques you used
This is the exact mill I want to convert. I did a conversion of an LMS 6550 with a kit and it turned into a bit of a nightmare. The kit was terrible. I want to design this one on my own. Where can I get the Fusion360 files you offered to share?
Awesome concise video about this upgrade kit. One question I have though, did you have to fiddle around to get everything to properly line up so they don't bind or was it really this straight forward? Might have to look if these kind of kits are available here in Europe for the mills I can get here. 🤔
Thanks for the comments - it is always hard to work out how much detail to include but I tend to want to keep things as concise as possible, even though it screws up the aggregate watch time for the RU-vid algorithm. The nice thing about a good kit is that the mating machined surfaces tend to eliminate issues with binding. In a later issue I will take a look at the backlash evaluation and fixes that I needed - the preload on the bearings and the gib tension turned out to be areas you need to pay attention to
That was wher I got to as well on the price - but I know the size of such a project can be a bit daunting to people - hopefully my experiences will encourage a few more people to give it a go. Other people quite sanely want to just get on mill stuff, so if they have money but not much time I guess they will purchase instead. I really like that I have a much depper understanding after building a machine rather than just using one.
Why didn't you clean up the fire box in the acid bath like you did with the boiler? Because it was steel rather than copper? Informative video, thank you!
There are a couple of points: The firebox was soft soldered not silver soldered so the flux is less of a problem, and the boiler joints are critical given the steam pressure, so getting them as clean as possible extends the life of the boiler and the joints
Thanks for the comment. A power draw bar is defintiely a future potential, but honestly I dont find manual changes that much of an imposition, whereas the power feed dramaticlaly improves the finsih and hand cranking the table any distance is painful. Have you implemented one, and if so did you go the Harbor Freight route that was pooular 2 years ago ...
Awesome series, I'm still on the fence between buying one or going the same route and diy it. Buying is more expensive, although i do wonder what the total amounts to when you start looking at the hours you need to spend to get there. 🤔
I hear you. At the time (and now 🤣) I could not affot $15+ for a mill and I have a ned to understand everything in detail, so the time tradeoff made sense
Excellent work! I completed the X and Y ball screw installation on my PM728VT about a week ago. I still need to do the Z axis though. It is interesting seeing how you did it, since the kit comes with nothing more than an expanded parts list and I couldn't seem to find any additional info, or videos. On the Y-axis, I was lazy and found a way to install the ball screw without removing the saddle, or disconnecting the oiler hoses. When I got to removing the crank wheels, I had the same issue you had, but after hitting the wheel a few times I realized it was difficult to remove because there was a hex screw clamping it to the shaft key. I could use the fusion model if your willing to post it somewhere for download. Thanks for posting this video!
Thanks for taking time to comment, it is alwayts hard ot know if this stuff is valuable to people I had already stripped the machine down to completely seperate compnents including removing the Z-axis column (do not do this - there is no nod ajustment for tramming the milling head so you have to shim it) so i am gld you found a faster way ... After exploring some ways to ship the CAD files, I am beginning to think email may be the besty way to hanlde this
a guess it really depends what you consider a cnc. because i manage to remake exactly same mill to cnc for much less than 200$. no feedback steppers controlled by old lpt port, original lead screws with software based backlash compensation. everything else saved from trash bin...
@@eclecticbuilds1424 You are 100% correct. And the cost of manufacturing high precision parts doesn't stop with the machine tool. You need a controlled environment, plus allowances for the time for the parts to cool to room temperature before inspections and making the finishing cuts.
currently, my issue is the electronics. PC power supply literally exploded the other day. dug out another unit, did have win10, but bricked when trying to install linuxcnc. couldnt get win10 to recognise pcie to parallel port card. or the three usb to parallel motion controller/breakout boards i wasted a few hundred on. so no loss there. tracked down monitor that was working last time i powered it up. nope. dead. another monitor. thats right, it requires some oddball 14V supply with a screwball proprietary plug. had to go buy another keyboard and mouse. dug out the old flatscreen TV. oh yeah... meant to throw it out as the bottom 2 inches of screen has turned to indecipherable flickering lines. the pc that had win 10 is now refusing to boot, at all. not even bios. no beeps or anything. booted up fine when i tried that XP install last night... that didnt install. said it was corrupt. probably is, being a download ISO. but it installed a year ago no issues, before trying linuxcnc. i havent used my mill in about ten years since the ancient 98 machine i had crashed for the final time, destroyed a week long project, and received said project thrown, hard, through the mobo. along with a handy hammer and a vice. i vaguely recall making a coil winder at some point, only a few years ago, and that was no issue at all, using all the old gear i had, and another PC. that crashed its HDD. and there was another reason i gave it up for my one and only current working machine... i forget now. its all a blurry mess... all my spare ATX supplies seem to have blown caps or simply dont turn on anymore. dont really want to relinquish my mach3 license. or gearotic license. or the gecko g540. or power supply for gecko. everytime i go look at linuxcnc or other options i wind up spending a week searching through forum boards and running in circles with acronyms, hunting down this, figuring out that. all for no end result but getting pissed off. i am absolutely sick and tired of modern, and "not so modern" electronics, filesystems, acronyms, things that cant be turned on or off directly when the power buttons are pressed, legacy, EFI, UEFI, ATA, SATA, ACHPI, power on, power down, unplug, power on, power down, replug, power down... blah blah blah blah... things that work the previous night but not today, and yeah... just an old girl, with a parallel port, with 98, xp, win7, and i would be up and running... or at least something that would recognise some type of motion controller. but you know what? computer says "no". each and every bloody one i try. really am in no mood to sacrifice the current one that i type this on, as its all ive got that actually works. even its decided the front USB sockets wont work anymore. and if i even look at it it demands i reboot, and that means i have to remove the video card to get it to run VGA as it refuses to run HDMI on the only monitor i have that appears to also work when i want to access bios... and then requires the rigmarole of getting nvidia drivers to work on linux again when the video cards reinserted. over it. really am over it. fifteen odd years ago, this CNC conversion was easy, but expensive. PCs worked and everything seemed to be swappable, replaceable, and worked. some type of consistent standard. now? i just want to kill something... usually myself. i just dont get how some people have absolutely no issue with this stuff... because its really got it in for me now. and just seems to get worse everyday. of course, the actual mill and the rebuild is going fine and proving to be far less finnicky than it was back then. new ballscrews, a good scrape, and its just bolting together without this fiddly tweaking to get screws aligned so they wont grind, gibs adjusted so theyre not binding or wriggling... now i just wanna see the Y axis move before i start finalising the X. cant win. just cant win. *sticks to manual for the foreseeable future*
doh - i hear you - somtimes my 3D printers work. charm and then other days they just dont want to behave I am keeping the manual mill and lathe for one off projects, but do like the opprtunity to cut curves and gears with CNC
