That is what I did to mine @Saplingbat. I just replaced the bolt as the head had sheared off of it. All the components were still in the assembly so I was able to just replace the bolt and reassemble it in the correct way.

Hi @vickibentley8963. Which filter are you writing about? The water inlet filter or a different one?

My pleasure @Samstraysongs. Glad I could be of help!

Thank you for the compliment @lamboy316

Hello @lamboy316. I purchased my power supply off eBay. It was used but I couldn't find a brand new one anywhere else at the time. If you're going to replace the power supply, make sure you get the exact same one (or compatible) for you Xbox. There are several different revisions and some of the power supplies are not compatible with each other.

Glad it was helpful @culturetoronto and thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the advice @EnviousGenome. This was one of my earlier videos so my editing has change (for better or worse). I'll be sure to keep these comments in mind for future videos.

That would be interesting @aaronag7876. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar enough with Raspberry Pis to do such a task. I have many times contemplated rebuilding one of my old circa 2000 beige boxes as a sleeper computer but I have time or desire to "show" off such a build to anyone.

The Simple Green Pro HD is the purple one and is available at Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards

Thanks for the info @judasgoatamerika599. I wouldn't think many cleaning agents would be hard on the carbide tips or the welds to the blade since they are welded the steel disk from what I've seen. I could be wrong though.

Following this, I need the same part

@user-il7cj5qn7b and @ibeals, what is the manufacture and model of your saws? That seems like an odd part number for Craftsman (Sears's) products but I could be wrong. I'm assuming you're talking about the blade tensioner knob since you refer to it as the "top tensioner" and not the belt tensioner?

Yeah, it's the top knob used to adjust the tire/tension, at about 37 seconds in this video, you see him twist the part I'm looking for.

Hi @garymasterson2603, Generally for Craftsman-related equipment, if I don't have the manual, the first place I go is www.searspartsdirect.com. From there I search for the model number of the equipment. In your case, that is 124.32607 or just 12432607 (no dot). I use the shop parts button and usually look at the parts illustration. From there you can get the illustration number for the part you're looking for and cross reference it generally on the following page (or two) what part that number relates to. I've taken your model and did the work below. You can verify using the information as well. I hope this helps you out. www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/4q1xfqwbbs-000247/craftsman-12432607-band-saw-parts Page 17 - parts illustration Page 18 - parts list #54 1-JL20020002 Drive belt I performed a Google search for "1-JL20020002" and this is the first result. You can also perform this Google search and find others if you wish. www.amazon.com/Drive-Belts-Craftsman-Number-1-JL20020002/dp/B082FKTZJB

I have noticed some others do that as well @csimet - sand and paint/finish the panels prior to assembly. I hear that also helps reduce paint lines if you're using non-engineered material that can expand or contract with moisture. I opted for the way I did because I couldn't think of a efficient way to cover the panels so there would be no overspray when I did the frames.

Not a problem @craftingcowgirl8582 ... I have had to replace several of mine over the years and because of that fact I figured other people have had the same issue.

That sounds about what happened to me @MarkBaldwin-c. I was leaning on one arm I guess just a little too hard and just about fell out of my chair as well. Glad the video help!

@pskyy I tried something new with this video - primarily only having text and no talking. Based on your comment either a voice over or talking / explaining would be more beneficial.

You have me intrigued @rds333. Does router bit stay above the bottom of the guide bushing so the bit does not tear up your template? The bit only exposes itself once you - assuming you insert the guide bushing into the template - plunge it down therefore pushing the bit out the bottom of the bushing and into the material?

@@SeanMoenkhoff So far, you are correct. The router bit stays above the guide bushing until you plunge the router into the material. The router bit never makes contact with the template. The guide bushing keeps this from happening. Here is more information about my setup. The base on my plunge router has a counter bore that is about 1/8 inch deep and 1 3/8 in diameter located in the center of the plate. A lot of routers have this, even routers with a fixed base. This is for the guide bushing. This configuration is the universal bushing, and guide bushings for this type are easy to find. (Some manufacturers use their own configuration and you may be stuck with whatever they make). Reference Rockler guide bushing #33967. I also found a descent set at Harbor Freight. The current guide bushing I’m using now is 1/2 OD and 3/8 ID. It protrudes about 3/8 of an inch. As you may be aware, shelf pins are available in either 5mm or 1/4 inch. I typically use the 5mm. Use the respectable size of router bit for the size of the shelf pin you want to use. Always use the router bits that are 1/4 shank. Using a 1/2 shank bit will cause problems with this setup. Choose a spiral up cut for either size. An up cut bit will extract debris out of the hole while your routing it. Reference Amana Tool 5mm up cut spiral bit # 46062. I found this on Amazon. And they last a long time. My template is 4 1/2 inches wide, and is 1/2 inches in thickness. I don’t go any thicker as this may cause issues getting the depth for the pins, and you may run your router into the top of the guide bushing. I know, because I have done this. In my case, I drill a series of holes 1/2 in diameter and 1 1/2 apart on center. And about 1 1/2 off the edge. You can make the template as long as needed. The holes are off center from the width so I have the option to choose how far from the edge I want my holes. The template is made from plywood, but you can use what you have available. You will have to experiment with how you want to line up where the holes are going to be, but I would use the top of the cabinet for a reference. Just be sure to mark “TOP” on the template and on both sides. My template is about 4 feet long, and I tape off any holes I won’t be using on both sides. Just clamp in on and rout away. Hope this helps.

Great Tip @tonymanero5544!

That is great @thomasosman670. Is there anything worse than a malfunctioning faucet, especially on a holiday weekend and/or if you're having guests over. Glad I could be of help!

I had a houseful, thank you.

@doubled9361 Thanks for that trick. Is there any particular laundry soap that works better than others?

@icey35 You're more than welcome. Thank you for the Thanks as well. I really appreciate it. In fact, I'm starting a new thing were I recognize people that do what you did and give them recognition at the end of a future video. So unless you say otherwise, you will be in the closing Thanks in the future.

Sorry @ShahriarNayeri-uk6dh. Unfortunately because I have enclosed the bottom of my saw for better dust collection I could not position the camera below it resulting in a terrible angle, which the only thing you could see was me so I cut this part out. It's tough to get to but I ended up going in from the backside where the motor is (I had it dropped down out of the way by removing the swing limiting screw). From there I was able to get to the arbor pulley's two set screws and get them loose. It took some effort to get the pulley off and then just reversed to put the new pulley back on.

Hi @LlamaRoyal, the only place I found a power supply that matched my exact XBox version was off eBay. Luckily for me the power supply worked and showed very minimal discoloration. I relied on the seller to have tested and ensured everything worked fine. I took the eBay chance and came out ahead. Sorry I cannot give you more advice but as with many older things that can be fixed, many parts are no longer being manufactured, the best place to find them is often times using Google to locate reconditioned or salvaged replacements.

@@SeanMoenkhoff as soon as I saw your video I ordered one thank you :)

@@SeanMoenkhoff Thank you. And yes I was able to find the power supply that I needed I modded and TSOP flashed my original xbox and completely cleaned and even changed the thermal paste on both GPU and CPU and now my original xbox is breathing a new life.

@LlamaRoyal That sounds great. I'm glad you got your original xbox back in service. Now you can go back to some of those old games you've probably been missing to play!

@@SeanMoenkhoff I'm even excited about Ensignia

Thanks for the info @seanoconnell450. I didn't think much of that detail. Glad I could help you!

@paulkelly4202 - does the pulley fit on the entire motor shaft and only hangs off when in alignment? If so, can you slide the motor mounting over so its on the entire shaft? The pulleys that I purchased were essentially steel versions of the aluminum ones that where currently on there so they are close to the same size - just a slight be larger in diameter but since I kept the ratio the same, the blade still turns at the same speed. if you want, use my contact email in my About section to send me a photo and perhaps I could give additional insight.

I completely understand @kevinh9262. I hate to throw out working items because of a 5, 10, 20 or even a 50 dollar part when new things cost 10 times that and last just until the warranty expires. And thank you for the paying it forward comment. It's appreciated!

This was not the first Camry I had @robertfrost4321 so I was familiar with the starter issue. I surprised my daughter (it's her car) when she was stranded with a friend at a store and I showed up to temporarily fix it to get it home with a hammer. I tapped (not hit) the starter housing a couple of times and it was able to turn over just fine. I threw a spare hammer in the trunk and showed her what to do because with my previous Camry it only happened every now and then. Needless to say this was not the case with this one as it happened again the next day with her at the grocery store and she said she was mortified hitting the starter with a hammer in front of people. Being that it happened twice that fast I decided to replace it. You're welcome for the fix and solution and hopefully you (or others) find the above true store humorous.

I cannot speak directly for European power conversions - but I know over the pond here in the US, a lot of our power supplies have switches (or auto switch) for 120v or 220v. I would guess you could swap out for different input voltage as long as the output voltage / amperage is the same on colored output wires (+- 3v, +- 5v, +- 12v for example) so that the motherboard is still getting what's required.

Thanks for the additional information @osbert. Others watching the video may find that information very helpful.

Thanks for this numbers I have the same issue I will go to solve it.. :D

@@ediazrod glad if it helps! word of warning, I measured almost identical threads on the bolts on both arms, but one of them turned out to work much better with a standard pitch M6 thread in the end! I don't know what HM were doing when they made these but what a whole load of hassle! Anyway, seeing as it's much easier to find standard pitch for this size bolt, I'd try that first and see if it is suitable before investing in shipping over fine pitch versions from overseas like I ended up doing... I found testing the thumbwheel nut much more useful too seeing as the end nut is more like a locking nut which should bind.

Good to know - I always thought the anti-theft strips were the white band-aid size magnetic ultra strips that are often found stuck to or inside the packaging.

Great to hear @beckysorem6406. You are so welcome!

@patrickgray9305 I would recommend thoroughly cleaning any part of the airflow path for the venting. If that means you need to remove something, yes, but just keep in mind the order in which you remove something or where it goes, parts, etc so you can reverse it and put it back on. I would not force anything to come apart though that does not easily come apart. Since dryers produce lots of heat sometimes plastic components can become brittle and break if you need to put too much pressure on them to release. My philosophy is if there is lint and you can get to it, try to get to it so that it is no longer there and not a fire hazard and improves air flow.

Hi @fredcarrano, I'm not sure what the price at Home Depot is but I got mine at Menards. The price was about $6.30 for a 1" x 36" piece of flat steel. I did not not get stainless, just regular flat steel. I believe I used about 18" of the stock so I still have 18" for future projects.

@@SeanMoenkhoff It was about $14 for 1" x 36" aluminum. The steel was double that price. If it was $6.30 I would have purchased it. Thanks for the response.

@SeanMoenkhoff - WOW! That's crazy. If I remember right aluminum was more expensive where I am than steel.

You're very welcome @Ron-FabandBuild.

Hi @DavidGarcia-yk9hk, I got my belt off Amazon. I grabbed the description and link I had from the video description 2-Pack 24" Length Drive Belts - amzn.to/3PSyEMT

yeah no

You're welcome @macroyanboy. Always glad to help out.

You're so welcome @mfitznyc! Love my chair and hate to see anyone struggle with the same issue as I had.

That is a good idea @jakerazmataz852. Thanks for sharing.

@@SeanMoenkhoff Mom taught me that 50+ years ago.

@jakerazmataz852 Completely understand. 40 years ago I was taught to put my shoes, gloves, boots, wet socks, etc all on the floor register to dry. We had one right by our back door and it was always piled up with winter supplies.

@@SeanMoenkhoff No registers, we had cast iron radiators.😁

Always an option @jakerazmataz852. Can you recommend some better boots? I have found that no matter what, in some cases where your feet are in boots all day such a ski or snowboard boots, they're going to perspire and get damp.

@@SeanMoenkhoff buddy is was a joke. Igtrstbinvention..

Those are some good ideas @_WillCAD_. The only thing that would concern me is that air flow would also leak out where the seal doesn't exist with a lack of a bottom.

Good idea @boomerbobable. I did not even think of that and that would improve air volume to the remaining ones when some are not in use.

Hi @valkyrie1066. If you have a blockage or even an air flow restriction anywhere in the process (air inlet to end of exhaust) it can prevent adequate drying and thus requiring more time to dry (or even worse become a fire hazard). I would check everywhere the air flows along the process from where the dryer sucks air in to start the process (although this is a less like the problem) to the end of where the dryer exhausts it out. A lot of times lint can build up in the back inside side of the dryer around the impeller (blower) area. Generally to access this area there may be a piece of metal to remove held on with some screws. Just search around following the air line with a flashlight and clean out any lint you see. Another possibility if you have an electric unit instead of gas is there are some thermal switches that may have gone bad. This can prevent "heat" at certain heating settings but usually you can figure that out by it cools at low, cools at high, but not a medium temperature, etc. I have a different video where I replaced such a failure - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S3e4WjdBbEQ.html Just keep track of every place you remove something and replace what goes there. Best of Luck!

Thanks for the Super @kamlele1224. I really appreciate it.