The point of the vid was showing how to sharpen combs an cutters ,but thats the bit you raced through ,washing parts with sun beam obscureing whag ur doing ,suggest you edit next video ? Cheers
At the start of the video you mention the long pointy side of your 'wrench' is for your centre post which you pointed to. If anyone is watching this because they are learning and don't really know what they are doing,,, word of advice,,, at no point during the entire life of the handpiece do you ever alter the position of the centre post. If you do, you will not get a consistent clean cut ever again.
Actually Sir, The instruction book and parts list from lister shearing states on page 3 of the maintenance schedule, explains the proper post adjustment and timing for the longest lifespan of your handpiece. You can get this pamphlet online at lister shearing, there is a diagram in maintenance figure 5, it's called a fulcrum post.
@@thomsenlivestock7253 yes lister calls it a fulcrum post, heiniger (and professional shearers) call it a centre post. Trust me, you absolutely do not adjust it ever. The post and cup wear down together. After about 4 days of use, the cup and post are perfectly mated to each other. You should be running atleast 80 cutters. As the cutters loose thickness from grinding, the angle the cup rests on the post is changing. In the old days (like 35 years ago) shearers would use 80 or 90 cutters in probably 8-12 months, then turn the post by 180 degrees and start another set of 90 full thickness cutters. Only one side of your post is ever being worn so technically this should mean you can turn it and get longer life out of your handpiece. No shearers today would advise that tho. For 1, the cup is allready worn to a different shape than the fresh side of your centre post. The ball and race will be worn, so slop and vibration will becoming noticeable. Tension pin will be shorter than when new so can't apply pressure evenly across stroke. I only commented earlier because you 'almost' made it sound like its an option to remove centre post for cleaning handpiece. Although you didn't say that, I could see some newbies thinking that was maybe what was being shown. Just don't want anyone wrecking expensive gear that's all. Your gear is 99% of the battle. Sheep only kick when gear is dragging. Grind your gear right, and keep cutters in order so they come down in thickness evenly, that way the mechanics of handpiece bed in together.
I ran across your video and watched because I am a sharpener. It is a blessing to see a young person that isn’t afraid to work and get her hands dirty. You are truly unique in this world we live in today. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your sharpening method.
