My name’s Garon, and on this channel, you will see videos chronicling my projects. My interests lie mostly in metalworking, but I'm also up for just about any challenge that involves problem-solving, using my imagination, and learning. For more information about me or to connect with me on social media, check out my website listed below.
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Disclaimer:
These videos and or commentaries are intended for entertainment and inspiration for adults.
Is it possible that the coolant is somehow affecting the remote receiver on the wall rather than the probe? Have you looked at it one to make sure all screws are tight and there's no coolant infiltration? Just trying to think outside the box. Ciao, Marco.
Thanks. I'll check that. The lights are coming on normally and all green as described in the manual. I'll check the OSI-20 and also re-clean the probe and check for areas where coolant may have penetrated inside the probe.
Do you make crosses for anybody or just pets my 24 yr old brother lost his life recently in a fatal motorcycle accident leaving behind his 8 month old and one on the way I would love to see what you cold come up with he loved fishing riding motorcycles and 420 and of course his daughter she was his whole world
I'm so sorry for your loss. Motorcycles and fishing, sounds like your brother was a great guy. I don't normally make crosses. This one was for a friend. Take care.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop Does the problem with your probe coincide with installation of the new lights? I recall reading something in the manual about other lights interfering with the probe.
@@jasonarnold7578Well. It was worth a try. I turned the lights off and the probe worked the first time, then wouldn't turn on again. I swapped batteries and even turned off the cabin light. I couldn't get the probe to turn on again.
I've had issues with myn using the batteries from amazon, there all counterfeits. Mcmaster sales the legit ones for like a buck more each and they last twice as long
I have this same setup on mine but I put the clear plastic separator on the back of the cabinet on the right side if you are facing the controller. Seems to work. I don’t use the machine much so I have a smart plug turning it on daily to circulate the coolant. The only thing that sucks is the hose from the float has gone stiff and wants to tilt the float.
I thought about mounting mine there too. Lots of options. Interesting to hear that the hose hardened. I know what I have to look forward to now. Does your set up work well for you? Is it collecting oil? I haven't noticed a layer of skimmed oil yet. I have mine programmed to run every night even though I use my machine almost everyday.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop My machine is barely used, i have some slight scum but nothing to write home about. I don't have any in the tank either and its not stinking up the joint so i'm not sure.
I had similar issues with self centering vises in general. There was a learning curve coming from a traditional vise and It came down to how much torque I applied. Put a dail indicator on the stock and find how much torque you can get away with and stay within your required tolerance.
I think a 25 tonne press could forge a coin provided the blank was good and hot. For non-ferrous metals and cold work I think we need 100 tonnes and higher.
I downloaded an X7 manual from the Facebook group and it gives general information, but no diagrams. My SYIL is 2020, but the information should be similar if not the same. I recommend the following: Ensure that the pump, when turned on (dry), spins in the right direction. Might need a helper for that. Turn it on on the control panel, and then turn it off. Watch the direction the fan blades rotate. They should match the arrows on the housing. This is important if you're running three-phase power. On the stock setup, the pump leaves the sump and splits into two pipe fittings. One hose for the spay gun and one for the coolant manifold. You'll need to hook the hoses up from the pump however you think fit best. Once you have coolant running, make sure you don't have leaks. You may need to reapply tape/putty. I inspected all the fittings and tightened as needed. Also, make sure the tank doesn't leak. Fill it and leave it over night to make sure it's not leaking or seeping fluid. Hope this helps.
I'm using Mobil Vactra Oil No. 2 way oil. ISO VG 68. I bought a gallon of it in 2021. It is what my SYIL rep told me to get. I'm glad MSC is cheaper. I almost bought it at a higher price as well.
Well, so far so good. Someone else commented that Lang doesn't send instructions either. The product quality seems good. So far, I am the weak link. 😂 This is new territory for me. It's working out though.
I have been looking into this oil skimmer. I currently have the skimpy el nino and its ok but I think I need more lol.. Also what year is this X7 because my coolant tank looks drastically different on my X7. Great vid
My mill is a 2020. I ordered it not long after they announced the new Schneeberger mineral casting (before covid-19 took off). So it's an early model for sure.
The 1/2 AA batteries on Amazon are all knock offs if that's where your getting yours, I switched to buying them from mcmaster and am getting about double the life, and there only like a buck or so more each
They've been good working with me, so I'm sure they'll help fix the issue. I have a bunch of their vises and 96mm fixtures. I ended up with a 5th axis rocklock because silver cnc had a long lead time when i tried to order. The good news is that their pull studs and fixtures are all compatible with 5th axis.
Thanks, they've been good to me so far. I already wouldn't mind a few more vises. The quality and price point are nice. Good to hear about their compatibility with 5 axis. That company rocks, I'd love to get some of there stuff.
That was mild steel. The machine has a BT30 spindle and no, I don't think it can handle 40% WOC in any metal. In my opinion, it likes 5-10% DOC with higher RPMs. It's definitely not a rigid torque monster.
Hard to tell from the angle but it looks like you can probably move your toolsetter an inch or so to the left of where it is. I have mine where the puck is just barely inside the travels and the entire base sits outside of the travels. I did a writeup on how to do it. Let me know if you are interested in the process I used.
Syil is 14mm T slots. I’d try drilling one of the holes 10mm, does not have to be dead nuts accurate, you need some wiggle room to tram it in. I personally would not use the central slot to line it up, just use the bolt at 200mm centres. My Lang plates are just held in the 4 corners with M10 bolts.
OK, like I get that you just shelled out good money and shouldn't have to deal with any of it. I totally get it. But here you are, in this shop/garage, with all this stuff around you. Just grab a piece of bar and make something that works. An M8 t-nut and bolt will hold that plate just fine.
That's great. I hope my set up / video helped in some way. Working with copper, bronze, and aluminum is definitely more forgiving. You have time to set up and us centering jigs, etc. Still, there is something very satisfying about holding a coin forged out of steel.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop Absolutely! I find the cold pressing of more ductile metals gives slightly different results because it extrudes more than the rapid surface changes that the pliability in hot steel can achieve. Still learning though!
When face milling i have found that conventional milling produces a better blend then climb milling. . This is just my experience doing shallow depth of cut and 75% stepover.
Thanks for the comment. Have you ever tried the "Flat" tool-path in Fusion 360. I've been employing that strategy on some of my parts and the results are often really cool. Like you said, it's a finishing strategy so shallow DOC and larger step over.
I have been going through your videos slowly. I hope that at some point I will find a video where the most basic things are done showing the G code (or a CAD/CAM model), like a hole in a cube, a triangle on a cube, and so on. I have been thinking about a change of profession and I have been searching for the really basic videos. I haven't made many searches yet, so the search continues, but slowly a few searches now and then in the following weeks or months, when I have time for it.
Back when I started learning G code, I was a big fan of Udemy. I took a few classes from Marc Cronin. Here's the link. www.udemy.com/user/marc-cronin/ I think now, I might go back and re-do the courses. He was pretty good though I felt like I needed more, so I went to the local community college and that really helped. To be honest, now I use Fusion 360 for design and post processing. I don't code anything by hand. Fusion lets me design 3D models and its Machining extension has great milling strategies and outputs the G code for my post processor. I thinks it's good to at least have a familiarity with g code to read and edit what Fusion spits out, if needed.
Do you by any chance know which group this manual would be in? Cause I can't finde in the 3 I am a member of. And I could really use this, it seems to be a good reference material.
That baseplate looks like a nice piece. I'm looking to possibly pick one up as well for my X7. Definitely like the wider footprint and material choice over the 5th axis offerings. I have a pair of 6" vices that I would like to be able to add / remove from the table as needed and like the additional support underneath this offers. I believe this is 250mm wide vs the 5th axis being around 150? Looking forward to seeing how it works out for you. Keep us posted!
The wider foot print was the main reason I went with silver CNC. At the time there were 3 5th Axis plates on eBay for cheap, but they didn't feel like they were designed for my application. When you ask for a quote, SilverCNC will send you a CAD file and prints. According the the CAD the plate measures 350 mm wide in X and 230 mm in Y. This covers a significant portion of the Syil X7 axis travels (400x300x380mm). Any bigger in X and I might not have room from my tool setter, although, one could technically Put the TTC-200 on a quick-change base and use one of the base plate's stations. ;) Then move it off to the side during operation. There are 4 rows of countersunk holes to attach the plate to the T tracks. The outer two rows are 200 mm apart in Y. I've got it mocked up centered on the table in Fusion 360. In cyber space it looks good, but I still haven't set it up on my Syil. Anyway, that's up to 8 bolts I can use to secure it to the table which should keep from moving.
@@PowerForgeWorkshopthanks for the detailed reply. I actually ended up pulling the trigger so I’ll be receiving one in the near future too. Definitely like it much better than the 5th axis offerings and really like how it looks in the fusion layout. I guess there are some guys using HWR / LANG but the size and patterns didn’t really seem to work all that well with our work envelope. That and I’m assuming they both cost 2-3x more than Silver since they’re made in Germany. I put the TTC on a removable base similar to how the Titans guys did and it’ll be parked elsewhere when not in use. I’ll be able to fit 2x 6” vices side by side on the plate for op1 / op2 or remove one to make room to swing a part in the 4th axis. Or remove both and put a pallet on, or a tombstone…..so many options. Until mine arrives I’ll be living vicariously through you lol. Looking forward to seeing you get it trammed in and put to use! Chuck
@@cskovach Chuck, congrats on your order. It shouldn't take long for you to get it. I wouldn't be surprised if you have yours set up before I do. Since I got back from my road trip, I've been swamped. No complaints though. I'm blessed with work. Your set up sounds great. I will need to get another vise down the road so that I can do a side by side set up like you mentioned. Also, it sounds like I should look for that Titan video. I'd be interested in parking the tool setter somewhere else. Fingers crossed, I can set my new toys from Silver CNC soon.
Good luck. I waited about three years before I did it, and I didn't know what I was missing. It's nice to have a network drive. Also, I don't think you need to do anything fancy like setting up a small network hub like I did. Unless you want to. It's a worthy project unto itself. You can likely, connect your XP laptop to your internet modem via an Ethernet cable and be good to go. Having a Subject Matter Expert to help you is a good idea. I have a buddy that rescues me from time to time.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop that’s great to know, I’ll ask my ‘computer friend’ lol to take a look. So I should be able to take a G-Code from Fusion, save it in my W10 pc, then be able to access that via my XP laptop and send it to the Syil?
@@MrRctintin My bad, I don't think I explained this in the video. On the XP, Vista, or Windows 7 laptop (or server for that matter), you have to create a shared network folder that the Syil can connect with. Then you must plug this laptop with the network drive into your switch or modem via an Ethernet cable. On your Windows 10 computer you need to map to that shared folder. Once that is done, it will look like another hard drive (like your C: or D: directory). Do the same on the Syil like I showed in the video. Now both your computer and the Syil will have read/write access to the shared network folder on your laptop. The Siemens 808D requires a username and password to connect to the laptop as well as the computer name. Lastly, on Fusion 360, change your g-code output folder to the new network folder on your XP laptop. When you post your code, it will be saved on the laptop instead of your computer or USB drive. All you have to do at this point is power on the Syil and navigate to the directory that you set up on the laptop.
Shop is looking good buddy. When you get a chance would be interested in seeing a video on how you hooked up your Network, so you don't have to use a USB anymore. Great work.
Good to know. I tightened it as well (until I started to loose the square head of the plug inside) with no luck. I'll see if I can tighten it a little more with a socket and ratchet. Thanks 👍
Thanks, I'll look into it. I was going to do an inline cartridge style filter in a stainless housing. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with a bag filtration system.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop i would just skip the inline cartridge's if you can afford it(pass the cost on the client lol cough*). They have problems from continuous use. The filters don't last very long even at 25 micron. Especially if you do alot of fine work with tiny step-overs. It'll be clogged in a week of use. Also cleaner coolant with sustained high pressure output is ideal for the perfect milling. Checkout Keller Products, the hooked me up with a good system.
@@PowerForgeWorkshop You might wanna skip the inline cartridges and get the bag filter instead. the inline cartridges have a host of issues, they clog easily even at 25 micron filtration. If you do a lot of fine work with small stepovers, you will regret putting that thing on your machine. bag filters also will give you cleaner coolant with sustained high pressure which is good for the machine and part. the inline systems lose pressure so fast you will only get like 10 psi coming out of your system vs 50psi or more with 5 micron bag filter.
Yes. I use the standard formula to establish RPM. With carbide the RPM is increased 2 to 4 times. Simplified, my formula is CS x 3.82 / diameter of stock. Where CS (cutting speed) in this clip is 100 for mild steel. 200 for aluminum. It's a good starting point for me when manual machining.
Looks great! I have this same 103 as well, what did you end up using for the replacement throat plate? Im trying to find a dado throat plate for it but nothing is available for it online. Assuming I'll have to fabricate one but curious what you did to yours! Thanks!
Thanks, I have the original plate for a single blade, but would also like one for dado operations. It's been a great little saw. It would be worth having a larger plate for it.
