Alton Gansky is a writer who has penned over 50 books (novels and nonfiction). He also teaches writing and is an editor for publishers and private clients. This RU-vid channel contains Writer's Talk, an interview show featuring writers, editors, and agents, Typewriter Tuesday (now Typecast), and videos related to writing, reading, and publishing. There are also screencasts dealing with some of the how-tos of the writing trade. Thanks for visiting. Enjoy.
Thank you for sharing this video! I just purchased one and the name is Traveller de Luxe instead of Traveller C. All the functions are the same. Cheers from Taiwan!
Love these! Do you by any chance know about the very similar Model Olympia 2000L? Can't find any information on it, but it sure lookes very very similar and was also made in the early 70's in Germany
I'm afraid that I don't do typewriter videos anymore, but thank you for writing. To make matters worse, I sold that machine a few years ago so I don't have it available to me anymore.
I just got my first manual typewriter on Wednesday (6/19/24). In picked the Royal Quiet DeLuxe over the Smith Corona SS based on the feel of the keyboard. The one I have seems to be from the 1950’s. I’m so excited about it! Thank you this video it’s nice to learn more about the machine I’m using. 😊
Thats interesting the guts of this Olympia Traveller C and the metal frame that holds them in place look extremly similar to those of my Robotron s1001 even the bends and holes in the metal fame match as far as i can see (the guts on the robotron werde licenced from silver reed).
There is no Swiss language; most Swiss speak either German, French, or Italian. There is however a Swedish language, same as there is a Danish and a. Norwegian language, all of which are related by the way. The "B" on the right hand tab setter stands for "Brev", meaning "Letter", incidentally also in Danish and Norwegian. So the left hand tab setter sets just one tab (1) and the right hand tab setter sets the letter tabs (B). There should be seven of them. You can insert your own joke about insular, myopic Americans here...
That is an interesting font. I just acquired a Quiet Tab De luxe with a fairly normal pica font. It looks like you would be better off using the letter I for a one. Also, a feature you didn't point out, the ribbon reverse lever can be turned to advance the ribbon if desired. A super neat machine with plenty of style.
I’m glad you didn’t check it first because you may not have bought it. Look how happy you are with it. Great video - just found your channel - thank you.
Remington Portable - Without Tabulator, mfg 1953-54. The LR model replaces the "Remington Portable without Tabulator", which carried the same "AN" serial prefix. Letter prefix "AN" released 4/18/55. Serial number started at #AN2,756,000. Letter prefix "LR" replaced "AN" prefix starting with serial #LR2,781,837. Serial number in same sequence as other standard portables. TWDB
Magic (R) Margin Magic Column Set Column Clear IS NOT MAGIC??? Touch (R) Control My Safari’s magic margins weren’t very magic, took carriage cover off, cleaned and lubed margin rack so now the magic is back. It has the loudest bell of all the machines I have.
I didn’t notice the red dots, put them on the edges of 8-1/2” wide paper and the printing point is centered, that is a useful feature, never have seen that before.
Thanks for writing. I've had several questions on this since I published the video six years ago. Removing the top is notoriously problematic. Here is what I don't one viewer of the video: "Congrats on picking up the typer. Thank you for your question. I no longer have that machine so I can't double-check things but I do recall the ribbon cover being difficult to remove. That's why I didn't show it in the video. Here's what I recall (some of this you can see on the video): the lid his held in place by four plastic clips-two at the back (near the carriage) and two at the front (near the keyboard). I believe the two back clips/slots are the area to focus on. I suggest trying to move the cover forward by placing your fingers at the back of the lid then pulling up. I recall having to use more force than I like. The key is to take it easy and try different techniques. It's possible that you may have to push the front of the cover back a little get the forward clips to disengage. Sorry I can't be of more help. It's been a few years since I had that machine. Good luck."
Beautiful condition. Underwood produced a small run of a special two-tone model that they raffled off at an exposition of some sort; this may be one of them.
A 12/1940 Remette came into my possession…fixed one issue and now it works perfectly. Fun the way the type bars fly up and over. All the rubber including the feet is in great condition, the entire machine has a quality feel, type feel is firm but consistent, easy to type on.
I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video but, due to the number of teleplays and the like he had to write, he start dictating his work. Very unique style of writing, especially dialog. He died much too young. There are some videos on RU-vid of him teaching a writing course at his old college. It's well worth watching. Thank for writing.
My ugly duckling is a 1956 Tower Commander (nearly equivalent to a 1949 Sterling). Green keys. It is a workhorse. It’s not pretty but it works. Still trying to get the bell working.
I have a 1956 Tower Commander built by SC which has the same pull and replace tab setup. It is a speedline body, essentially a 1940s Sterling with plastic keys.
According to the Royal marketing department that’s the “automatic paper lock,” on the lower Arrow model it is a paper bail. It appears to be a paper bail which articulates forward and can go up. The paper bail only goes up. Recently acquired a 1952 QDL, like it. Amazing it still works so well after 70 years. It has the typical Royal crowding issue which can be adjusted out. It’s the hot rod of U.S. portable typewriters.
@@altongansky I figured my crowding/skipping issue…typing too hard causes the escapement to release twice or fast causes crowding. Turn up the tension then type with a soft touch touch and it types beautifully and can go fast. Smith Corona is more forgiving but this Royal is less tiring to fill up a page.
Greets and thanks for writing. Sorry for the delay. Busy time of year for me. Here are two links to printed material that may help you. Since this documents were created in the early 1920s so there are are no drawings illustrating the process. However, the first link has a decent step-by-step description. The second link doesn't add much, but I thought you might find it interesting. I hope this helps. Again, sorry for the delay. Links = site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/Underwood3bankManual.pdf and archive.org/details/how-to-use-the-underwood-standard-portable-typewriter/page/8/mode/2up.
I have this 800 Futura and when I hit the keys, the carriage does not advance for the next letter. Any ideas on how advance the carriage with each key stroke? Is that the main spring you talk about 15 min into your video? The carriage lock is released and the carriage moves smoothly, without obstruction along its complete path.
That's hard to say without seeing it. You mention the usual suspects: carriage lock, free carriage, and mainspring. Also, I'm not a trained typewriter repairman but I've looked at the workings of many a typer. So, let's take a look at a couple of other possibilities. 1) The margins have been set next to each other serving as a carriage lock. It's an old way to secure the carriage. Try resetting the margins. (I doubt this is the problem if the carriage moves by hand, but it's worth the time to check.) 2) The mainspring is broken. I'm assuming from your question that the type bar strikes the platen but the carriage doesn't move. True?) If the main spring is broken, then all that can be done is transplant one from a donor Futura. 3) Less drastic but still a pain is that the draw cord has come loose from the carriage. Generally, that can be fixed. If the cord/string/band is broken, then it will probably have to be replaced and the mainspring reset. If it has come loose, you should be able to see by looking under the typer. Let me ask this: When you use the carriage release and move the carriage, is there any resistance when you move it? if there is, then the drawcord is still attached. If any other ideas come to me I'll send them your way. Let me know if any of this helped. Al Gansky
@@altongansky Hi Alton, thanks for the detailed response. : ) Margins have been set to either side, so they are not the culprit--unfortunately! Yes, the type bar of all characters strike the cylinder and marks the page. There's simply no advancement of one space to make a new character. The space bar doesn't advance it, either. I considered the mainspring, but when the TAB key is pressed, the cylinder moves forcefully from the far right margin to the far left margin and rings the bell. I can see the draw cord is attached, and it doesn't look loose; it's taught around its wheel. I'm not sure what moves the carriage predominantly: the mainspring or the cord? And which advances the carriage with each keystroke? Or is it something else? The Line Space Lever is the only thing which slowly swings back into place after being used, but I don't see how this could affect character advancement. It feels like we're missing something really simple. Arg!
Sorry for the delay. Crazy days. Anyway, there is a gear and a lever that are supposed to advance the carriage when a key is depressed. You can try setting the machine up on end so that the front of the keyboard points to the ceiling and depress a key slowly. There is a sprocket like gear that should engage. The only think else I a think of is that carriage is jammed, but I believed you said it moves freely. Sorry I can't be more help.
I have an Underwood Leader that looks very similar to this model. Of course, it’s missing a lot of the features you mentioned, but this video did help me understand my typewriter a little better. Thank you!
I just bought a Dreyfuss two-tone 1948 Royal Quiet Deluxe on Etsy..... I am so excited. I have wanted one of these for years. I finally took the plunge.
@@corinneone Hi !! I am so sorry, but I do not know. Mine came with a brand new ribbon and I have no idea where to buy an appropriate ribbon. If you find out, please post it here so I'll know also. Thanks !!!
My parents gave me the 1959 version of the Smith Corona Sterling for my 8th grade graduation. I used that typewriter all thru high school and college (class of 1967). I sure wish that I still had it. I have no idea what happened to it.... sigh. But I recently purchased a 1946 SC Silent typewriter that was the high end version of this machine. It has the vintage glass keys, but is the same solid typewriter that yours is..... Great machines. And the one that Tom Hanks - a noted typewriter collector - recommends as a workhorse dependable typewriter for writers..... In the 40s and 50s there were slightly different models with slightly different features..... but basically the same machines: the Standard, the Sterling, the Silent and the Clipper.
Thanks for writing. Congrats on you '46 Silent. I've been fond of most of the mid century Smith-Coronas and have owned several. I hope it serves you well.
@@altongansky Thanks for your reply. I'm sorry that this channel is no longer active, so a reply is very kind of you. You will see that I also posted on your video of the Royal Dreyfuss two-toned QDL. My typewriter collection is now complete. I have my Dad's one owner 1926 Royal No. 10 that he used throughtout high school and college (class of 1937) and the 1976 Adler J5 that I bought him... new... for his 60th birthday. And now.... I have recently purchased the 1946 SC Silent that I mentioned here and the 1948 Dreyfuss two-toned QDL . In my humble opinion, I now own 4 of the best made typewriters in the world. Unfortunately, I am 78 years old so don't have a whole lot of years left to enjoy them, but.... enjoy them I will...... 🙂
Excellent informative video! I have the identical model but it was manufactured by Underwoood in Toronto, Canada. It is in near-mint condition except that it is missing the left and right plastic shift keys. Any advice for where I might get replacements?
To get real replacement means finding a donor machine. Start by going to eBay and search for typewriter keys. Include the model of the typewriter in the search. Avoid the people ("key cutters") who make jewelry from typewriter keys. Sometimes you can find someone selling a back of typer keys. That happened to me once. The other option is to buy an "as is" machine and use it for replacement parts.
@@altongansky Thanks. I've contacted Toronto Typewriters who buy, sell and service vintage typewriters. Maybe they will have the replacement keys I need.
I have a 1938 De Luxe, it’s supposed to be broken but I somehow fixed it. I suspect something was derailed and I fixed by fiddling (looking for the S/N). My 1937 Corona Standard is very bare minimum, no paper bail, only fingers. But it’s heavier, seems tougher somehow. The Royal is lighter weight but loaded with features, tabulator, paper bail which doubles as a paper rest, left paper guide, index release for typing on a line but doesn’t change the index, index button which does change the index. Margin stops and tab stops are manual. The feed roller has a flat spot that I want to fix. Corona is shiny black, no chrome, like a Ford. Royal is black craquelure with chrome strips like a Cadillac.
Thanks for writing. It sounds like you have a great little collection going. I'm impressed that you chose to fix the typewriter when so many wouldn't. Good for you.
@@someonespadre A long time ago, I bought a typer on eBay. I usually avoid doing that, but the typer was cheap and I needed a couple of parts to fix a different typewriter. The info on the machine said it was broken and was being sold "as is." That was fine with me. It arrived. It was beautiful. A Royal Futura in blue, but the carriage didn't move. I released the carriage lock the side of the machine and it worked fine. It was five second fix. The only down side was that I had to find another typewriter to get the parts I needed.
Hello Amanda. Thank you for writing. If I am reading your comment correctly, you have purchased a new ribbon for your Olympia Traveller C. The first thing to do is to remove the cover. Watch my video about this process because the cover can be difficult to remove. That portion of the video begins around 7:15. Once you have the cover off take a good look at how the ribbon is threaded through the vibrator (the small metal thing that lifts the ribbon up and down while you type). If you have a smart phone, I advise taking a photo of that part of the ribbon mechanism. The ribbon needs to be installed in the same way. I found a manual on line with directions in several languages. Here's the link: www.manua.ls/olympia/traveller-c/manual?p=6.
I no longer have that machine, but I remember that removing the cover was not user friendly. I always felt like I was breaking the cover. There are four plastic tabs on the cover that fit in four openings. Two are at the back near the carriage; the other two are at the front and beneath the cover-one on each side. Try putting your thumbs on the front of the cover (left and right), push in and up. That should release the front tabs.
I'm giving this to a young teenage budding writer. I am sure there will be some typing mistakes. What can she use to correct those or is there still erasable bond paper around? Thanks Found video very informative
Hello. Thanks for writing. That's a lucky teenager. I'm sure he/she will enjoy the machine. To answer your question, I'm going to refer you to another video. This is by Joe Van Cleve and he is well known in the "typosphere." He recently did a 20 minute video on making corrections on a typewriter. Here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4uO76v2glDY.html I hope this helps.
Hello Have Mic. Congrats on the new-to-you typewriter. Yes, most classic machines need work. Check out Phoenix Typewriter on RU-vid. He has tons of videos about typewriter repair. Now to your question. To type a 1, use the lowercase letter "L." That's the way it used to be done. Enjoy the adventure.
Great video. I have myself the Royal KMM. Works pretty good but I have to tweak it a bit. Got it for nothing at an antique store. She just wanted to get rid of it. Nobody was interested in buying it. That was about 15 years ago. Where do you get those circle tables to turn the typewriter around. Looking to get one. Thank!
Thanks for the good rundown. Just found one at a flea market for $5. Only had to put some shims under the rubber bottom pads to stop it from rocking. Frame must be warped a bit.
That’s almost certainly the model known as the “All New” portable. Hence the serial number beginning with AN. I have an “All New” portable 1949 Remington Rand that looks similar.
Face the typewriter and move the carriage to the right. You will see a slot in the metal casing. With a flashlight, look down that slot and you should see a number. Write that number down. Now go to the the Typewriter Database site (typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database). Scroll down until you get to the "Portable" section and fine the years 1948 or 1949 in one of the left-hand columns. Next to it you will see the starting serial number. You should be able to figure out if your typer is 1948 or 1949.
Hello Judah. I buy my ribbons from Amazon.com. They're 1/2 inch ribbons and come two to a pack. Here's the description: Universal Typewriter Ribbon Twin Spool Combo Pack - 1/2" Cloth (2) Pack. If you haven't changed a ribbon before, be sure to take a look at how the old one is installed, or consult the manual (if your typewriter came with one). They can be a bit tricky to put in correctly until you've done it a time or two. If you don't have a manual, you can download one from the here for free: site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/OlympiaSM9-1970s.pdf. That link is for a machine made in the early 1970s. If yours is earlier, you might have to download a different manual. Congrats on your purchase. Those SM9s are magnificent machines. -Al
