If you pump the tank to full and the gas pump then cuts off, you will get a little bit of gasoline dribbling out onto the ground. It's normal for a little bit of gasoline to go down the lines into the vapor canister when you top off. This is a good way to see that the lines are clear (seeing some gas on the ground after filling up with the lines disconnected).
Hey,after you replaced the charcoal canister did that fix your issues cause mines didn’t.any other tips outside charcoal canister pure valve n vent solenoid?
I just replace the canister and solenoid kit any the purge valve. Still cuts off at the pump. What could it be? Maybe I’ll just unplug the damn connection and let it blow fumes into the air.
I have the same symptoms on my camry. The dilemma I'm facing is that I can't find a mechanic to replace the charcoal canister. Apparently it's too much work. Go figure.
I have a 2011 Suburban that you can hear the air girgling up the filler neck every few second and then pump nozzle shut off. I can go slow, same thing! Now, I know where to look and what to do. Thanks.
@@treyspetch I also took the lines off the canister and the solenoid to try and fill up that way and still same issue. even with the lines detached it won’t fill
@@cali_misfit1387 Ah, I'm glad you found the problem. When my charcoal canister got really old, the foam barrier that keeps the charcoal pellets inside the canister disintegrated. Then when gas flowed into the canister on overflow, the pellets back-washed into teh lines and clogged them. Sounds like same problem with yours. You might want to check your canister inlet to see if the foam is gone, so it won;t happen again.
You don't always need to replace the canister. If its clogged you can unclog it pretty easy & put it back on. I've seen some canisters with a vale in them & people would spray wd40 in the hole where the valve was to lube it if it was getting stuck closed. Anyway the canisters are nothing fancy, just plastic with charcoal pellet's but the cost $200 plus. You can buy a delete kit that removes the canister all together.
Thanks for the comment, Wanda. My canister had a foam barrier inside that keeps the charcoal from backwashing, and the foam had deteriorated, so I needed a new one. The charcoal was floating back up the vent lines toward the tank.
Good video. I’m having the same issue with the pump turning off just after adding about a gallon of fuel. I disconnected the vent line running form the fuel tank to the charcoal canister and tried to get gas. This time, gas is pouring out of the vent line. What’s that about? I’ve changed out some many parts and haven’t fix a damn thing.
Disconnect the lines from your canister & vent and trace that hose from the canister to your fuel tank and disconnect that line, then just blow compressed air thru the lines. You probably have charcoal clogged somewhere. You may have a clogged vapor canister purge valve too. It’s under the hood so check it to be sure. After that, it should definitely work… That covers all bases to the issue.
For anyone in the rust belt, the old evap canister vent may not come off the slide tab. Just use (I used stainless steel versions from commercial electric) zip ties to secure the new one to the old one.
During refueling, the vent valve remains in the normally open state to vent the air from the tank. That’s what allows you to add gas. When the valve gets stuck closed or the vent lines become clogged, the gas backs up in the filler tube because there is nowhere for the air in the tank to go. The purge valve is closed when the car is off.
I don't know the parts numbers. You can get the vent lines between canister and solenoid off yourself pretty easily and blow them out. The lines from the tank to the canister are harder to get to, and most people remove the tank (lots of work, never done it).
nice how GM stuck a few hundred dollars of useless parts and weight on the truck to make some side money along the way. what's the point of having charcoal canister in there and a solenoid if the fumes go to the engine and burn anyways?
All of this stuff is required by the federal government for emissions standards. The charcoal canister is required to scrub and capture the gas vapors on every car, where the air in the tank has to vent out when you fill it. The valves are required to then close the system to allow the engine to suck them back out of the canister and to do the emissions test, which the government also mandates.
Thank you! We have a Chevy Tahoe that has done this since we got it. I’m hoping this will keep me from taking 3 hours to fill up with all the shut offs! Must be a Chevy thing…
thanks for video . i have 2011 gmc uno 170000 miles doing the same thing.looked at scotty video also and he says can happen when i over fill tank after it shuts off by itself,then extra gas i put in will flow into vent tube and literally clog up the carbon in canister john
Yeah, I believe what happens when you overfill is that gasoline flows out the vent tubing and into the charcoal canister. There is a foam barrier at the canister entrance, but it disintegrates over time. Then the liquid gasoline that flows into the canister washes back into the vent tube, carrying charcoal pellets with it. These pellets clog up the vent tube and have to be blown back out.
@@lauradinkins On my 2004, there’s a very small line near the very back of the tank there’s a fitting that you can disconnect in the middle of the line, and you can put a compressed air gun against it to blow air into the tank and blow those vent lines out. If you can do that, it saves you from having to drop the tank down to get those lines out
Good explanation on how to narrow down the issue. One other thing that would need to be checked, the tube between the charcoal canister and vent valve could be plugged. I would suggest checking all of this by getting a piece of hose that fits over the charcoal canister inlet, then blowing through, and removing different parts, rather than driving up to put gas in.
Great, thanks! Very helpful. I just replaced the vacuum solenoid as you did so off to fill the tank and see if it shuts off still. Just wondering if you noticed using more gas before the repair and or hard starting which some say are symptoms of a bad charcoal filter?
the gas vented directly to the air via a air line that ran alongside the down spouts.. from 1920-till 2001 , before they mandated EVAP systems post2000. california made that no longer possible..
Ok, so having disconnected the hose from the tank into the charcoal canister, the problem persists. If understand correctly, that could mean that the hose may be clogged, correct? Any other thoughts?
Yes it’s very possible that charcoal pellets have floated back up into that hose and clogged it. It happened to me once. I found a very small 1/4 inch line coming out of the back of the tank that think led up toward the filler neck. It had a little disconnect in the line. I disconnected it and blew compressed air through it to inflate the tank. About 1/2 cup of charcoal pellets came blowing out of the vent line that goes to the canister. After that, I Hooked the vent line back up to the canister and everything was cool. Some people say that this is a consequence of overfilling your tank by continuing to click after the pump shuts off. I think the idea is that fuel flows into the charcoal canister and then back washes into the line carrying charcoal pellets with it.
treyspetch I suctioned lots of carbon debris out. Still not working. I now recall in the past that when this began, at one point when I was trying to “rapid fire” fill my tank that fuel actual spilled out at one point. At the time I figured that the evap system shutting of the filling caused stoppage of fuel intake, but now I wonder if it’s a problem in the first stage of the fuel line, from the top (the neck) down to the tank. How common is that? Might be time for me to give up and take it into the shop? Appreciate your comments and suggestions. Was fun while it lasted
@@michaelcronin8253 I’m not sure if suctioning out really provides enough force to clean the line out. I think I would take compressed air and blow it out from the other side to ensure that there’s nothing still stuck in there. It just requires a compressor.
treyspetch The issue there is that I think I’d need to drop the tank to get to the other end of the line, correct? That’s a bit beyond my capabilities I think
With either one of the vent hoses disconnected during troubleshooting, is there a risk that when filling the tank the gas pump won’t shut off in time and gas overflows when filling tank?
No, I have done this. The worst that will happen if you get a little triple of gas on the ground when the tank is full. That’s the gas that normally with triple into your charcoal container.
There is a check ball at the top of the tank. Liquid gas should never go into the evap system. If there is, there is another problem, and the charcoal canister will be bad because of the liquid gas.
@@jasonsprouse2803 The check ball is a rollover protection. It only blocks the flow when the gas tank is upside down. If it activated all the time, the rush of air out the vent hose would be blocked, completely invalidating the idea of a vent hose. Liquid gas goes right out the vent and into charcoal canister when you overpump. Give it a try by disconnecting your hose from the charcoal canister and you will get a pool of gas on the ground when you pump the gas beyond full. The charcoal canistetr can take a little bit of liquid gas. This is why they tell you not to pump beyond when the pump shuts off, because it dumps more gas into the canister, where it floods it and it takes longer for it to evaporate.
Having this problem on my 2008 Tahoe. Is the solenoid valve in a different location in the 2008- models? I’m reading all sorts of locations and can’t even start with your first step
I’m not exactly sure on a second generation avalanche. I think if you find the charcoal canister and work your way backwards and forwards from there, that should give you a search strategy
