Official Hi-Lux Precision Optics RU-vid Channel. hi-luxoptics.com
Hi-Lux Optics designs and manufactures a full range of optics, from vintage style period correct steel rifle telescopes to modern electronic sights. Whether you are stalking game, plinking steel, or shooting vintage sniper, we've got you covered!
Hi-Lux Tactical Riflescopes offer tremendous versatility and precision for all distances. Whether you are blazing through the final stage of the 3-gun Pro Am or racking up points in the precision rifle series, Hi-Lux delivers.
First zero and second zero... I realized I had some geometry to do to understand how the various ranges will matter, especially since shooting at say two yards will aim you low on your target by about the scope height... or more? Then zeroing in at say 20 yards, I'll be shooting high then at 30? And then depending on the ballistics that second zero, presuming you were at the first zero in 20 yards. Still seems confusing, but I see the puzzle. I suppose it is true that zeroing in at zero yards you would than simply be witnessing bullet drop at all other ranges, but no: because you zeroed in at zero yards, your scope is exageratedly pointed towards your barrel, and so the correct thing is to measure the height of the center of your scope from the center of your barrel, sight in for that distance low, and then you could call this a raw zero, yet it still does not actually simplify the puzzle as you now are computing that you set your site low initially. Fascinating how complicated this gets with just these factors.
Why the scope is always far away form the barrel ? Why you never put rhe scope touching the barrel isntead ? Can you put the scope at the side of barrel instead above ?¿
@@Vo_d_kontra_o_norMAL The scope would sustain damage to the glass if it's touching the barrel (especially on the objective end) during recoil. There's always a gap, even if it's only 1/16th of an inch. Here, the scope is even farther away due to the structure of the externally-adjusting mounts. Offset mounting is possible, but not common. Old top-eject or top-loading rifles sometimes require it. However, it forces the shooter into an uncomfortable cheek weld and adds strain to the neck.
@@Mashedpotata Scopes of that era were sometimes built to slide in order to reduce recoil on the scope tube itself. Back then, the reticle and glass were quite sensitive. Sliding kept the reticle from flexing and breaking on each shot. The movement doesn't affect accuracy. Whether the scope is forward, backward, or partway through a slide, it'll still be aligned along the same axis and pointing at the same spot. The contact points (built into the rings) do not shift from recoil.
There wasn't room in the description. Pedersoli Sharps, .45-70 (I don't know the powder) with 405gr bullet. The distance is marked on the video: 650 yards.
200 acres of mixed terrain. Woods, trenches I've dug, and a couple mock structures with some scrap cars. Diverse training environment means well-rounded and complete training.
Another reason is spalling. When a bullet hits that steel, the bullet doesn't just fall to the ground or smash up and stay in place, it fragments into tiny pieces moving parallel to the surface of the plate. This means that getting hit in a steel plate with 5.56 is like putting one of them .22 ratshot shells from CCI right up under your chin and squeezing the trigger.
Radio based chronography? Makes sense but guess i never thought about it, im feeling unsafe without the guardrails😂 Thats pretty fing cool, but id probably settle for old tech.
Rings look like they are too close together and should be spread out more. Didn't specify inch lbs. or ft lbs. Didn't show a leveling tool or how to level in the video. At least you look cool.
Inch pounds - good point. As for leveling; I prefer leveling visually. I know other people like using a variety of tools and methods. There would not have been enough time in a short to mention them all or cover much detail.
My wife just won me one of these guns at a gun bash! I'm eager to shoot it and to eventually mount a little scope on it. I think the scope really adds to its already very cool look and character. Thanks for showing us how to do this and what we need to get the job done.
