Warhammer, Wargames, MIniature Painting and More! Welcome to my channel where we all try to take our next step on our hobby journey and discuss the games we love!
I am new you mentioned the air brush what about the compressor and any other stuff? When I look on Amazon some have a large blue air compressor some a small black. Is there a good start air brush kit you can share an affiliate link for?
Can I premix my primer mix and store for later use? Let's say 10 drops of flow improver, 40 drops of thinner and 150 drops of vallejo primer. What is the optimal psi for 0.3 needle? How long should I wait before painting with your primer mix?
Hah, "Got em on the sprues." Sounds like a variation of, "being on the ropes", or tied up somehow. Maybe Vince can design a "fashion apron" which can work like a "uniform" for wargaming & painting.
I’ve been trying zenithal primer (rattle can) and the white layer is very grainy and dotty looking, is there any techniques or different primers that can prevent that? Or do I just need an airbrush?
your too far away from the mini, also make sure it shaken alot like twice as long as you think, and soak the can in hot water before hand to to get the paint warmed but yeah an airbrush is the easiest way to remedy that
Yep, all of those tips are great, an airbrush can help smooth it out, but you can utilize alternative tips on some spray cans as well to change the spray pattern.
@@VinceVenturella you should ;) I couldn't be bothered to use dry palettes before that, too much of a pain to clean. My one dry palette that had a lid exists only to be a pigment palette.
Does the double-sided tape work well for sticking the model to the base prior to doing the base? I have currently been using sticky tack for such a thing but... I don't love the solution
Vince, running speed paints though an airbrush to easily create blended skin tones is my favorite of all the techniques you’ve ever shared. I’ve watched hundreds of your videos but this technique is something special. My skin went from looking average with 3 hours of work; to looking incredibly smooth, rich and blended in 2 hours. Any chance we could see a broader video on this technique, covering how we could use it for dark brown skin, green orc skin, purple drown skin, etc?
Just ordered a copy of the book, love everything about the game you guys have showcased! 1 question I had is if you play a skirmish match, can 1 player be the necromancer and the other play as the heroes and villagers? I think it would be really fun to have a player for the good guys instead of only ai.
In this case not as written (now, they are full fledged stats, there is no reason they couldn't do it instead of AI, but not as written). We wanted to focus completely on the Deth Wizards. :)
So from a thickness perspective how do they compare to AK interactive and scale 75 (scale color range). Trying to improve my flesh painting but my current experience has been that I don't like the coverage of scale 75 I'm thinking about kind of throwing out scale color... And pro acryl is too opaque I was thinning it yesterday and I think I had to put like 10 drops of thinner into get it to a glaze... I still want it for some things when I especially need coverage but I'm starting to not like it for my wet blending And glazing flows. Ps you should paint Juggernaut he's got lots of fleshy Big muscle areas 😜😅 show us your veins! Pps you should do a video on when to use the various washes that they have. I find it a little challenging to think about when to use dark, strong, soft, light, and flesh tone.
Spearhead using easy rules, less than half a dozen warscrolls, not too many miniatures and a small board means that you can kinda treat it like a board game. Invite friends who don't own any AoS minis but are generally interested to play the game to come to you and play with your Spearheads on your table. If you own 4+ spearheads, you can run two parallel games and make a little mini tournament at home. When the format was announced, I checked for my 8 armies and I already had 3 Spearheads (SLV, FS, SoB) ready to go. Currently assembling the last minis for a 4th one (StD). Gotta buy and assemble 10 more skeletons and I would have a 5th (SBGL). And then said mini tournament would be ready to go.
Im enjoying that both ranged and melee minions have clear uses and can contribute to the combat consistently. Also the basic necromantic bolt all necromancers get is quite amazing and useful.
That was definitely one of the largest hurdles for my painting. Learning to stop trying to be perfect and just let myself paint. Mistakes can be fixed but never starting or finishing doesn't help anything.
I wonder how this would work with metallics, as thinning them down to a consistent glaze is a nightmare. Also, it hurts my brain to think that I might go back to using unthinned paints after all the effort I put into learning how to thin them properly. The horrors I've created with unthinned paints...
Love the content as always, any chance of a Bretonnia review? There's other reviews but nothing matches how your show can just suck me in for 3 hours without a second thought.
It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on photographing squads (especially large squads of 10+), vehicles, etc., where getting proper depth of field can be difficult. One thing I've started doing for squads is to build a little stand out of black foam, so you have the first few guys on the first row, the next few guys an inch above and behind them, etc. This way you can take pictures more or less straight-on while avoiding some of the problems of getting every model in focus of the flying v or staggered formations.
So my other half, who has a more classical art education. Was introduced to you by me, she now paints minis, and told me that when you busted out the speed paints you were using the sfumato technique favoured by Leonardo DaVinci. Vincy V, the DaVinci of the mini world, 🖌
Simply stunning, never thought of speed paints being used like this due to all the slap chop videos that has been pushed on us, more of the same please.
Thank you, Vince, for your genuineness and straightforward advice. Between you and Roman Lappat, I have finally been able to stop worrying about what everyone else will think of my painted miniatures and just paint for the joy of the hobby, regardless of the result. I certainly will not be entering any painting competitions in the next 2 decades, but at least I won't be bringing an all-grey army to the tabletop either.
i know this ep is a couple years old at this point, but vince is so right on the money about warhammer tv. this was a great opportunity to grow the brand and they went in the most confused direction with it possible.
Excellent overview, Vince! I love seen how the "roughness" of the initial layers is turned into the super smooth final result with glazes and filters. Thanks!
Question if you where painting either an Eldar or Drukhari warrior would you use the same sponge technique in weathering their armor? I did try it, but every time i did it seemed as though this wasn´t just "chips" of damage, this was down right cosmic rust. So would a Smooshing Brush or just a really sharp brush do a better job than a sponge in creating realistic/believable chips and scratches for the scale? Also if you did the pigment rust on a metalic surface, would you use pigment fixer instead of maybe varnish to make sure the pigment wasn´t rubbed off too soon?
You can still do the sponge, but you need like no paint on it. That being said, a brush is usually better yes. I generally don’t worry about fixing pigment, I just smash it in.
