I use a carbide tipped blade in my saw for aluminium. It makes very nice chips. Something to consider - with fuel injection you need a good supply of electricity. I found that a reasonable size battery isn't good enough. I wouldn't cut the end off the crank until you are absolutely sure that you won't need the alternator. The other thing is that the alternator rotor has the trigger teeth on it. Depending on your plans with the ECU you might need crank triggers, plus a cam trigger. With injection you will need to know engine cycle location so injection happens at the correct time. A cam trigger tells you this. I used grub screws to block the unused oil galleries and peened the alloy over so they can't fall out. Get a fuel pressure gauge and a good regulator. You'll thank me.
2 strokes are allowed, you are limited to 125cc air cooled and 100cc liquid cooled. The class also allows 150cc 4-Stroke NA, or 100cc 4T with turbo/supercharged.
Haha yeah mate, This was a long time when I was young and stupid, now I am older but still stupid. I've just chucked up a video with some details on the new project I'm working on, hopefully more successful than this supercharger was.
Hi Glen. Nice job! I know how difficult is to have this device working properly. I'd say CONGRATULATIONS !!!. I'm almost there with my RC dyno. I kindly ask you if you can sell or share the eletronics of your RPM2 pickup device. I have some of them in hands but I'm getting spikes in the signal doesn't matter if its via audio or Arduíno. I'm not an electronic expert so I think its better to consult more experienced people. Thank you a lot for your understanding.
Hey, yeah no problems. It's 400mm long 300mm OD with a 30mm stub shafts at each end. And it should be around 230kg. Never weighed it just calculated its MOI
Yeah, wiring them directly in the primary side of the coil is poor form and a brilliant way to wreck a gear box. Also the price is a bit of a kick in the guts as anyone can buy the direct from ignitech for $80NZD.
Hi glen, I am actually doing my own Bv20 cnc conversion. I am actually really interested in how you did the y axis mounting? I have a 1204 ballscrew which i was looking at using but it is very confined without major modification. Where abouts are you located?
+Bruce Sexzual I can't remember the Torque but I do remember the HP being about 16-17hp at the wheel. This dyno has no corrections so there is no bullshit dynojet factors added on. That is true measure HP
+Bruce Sexzual It's a RGV250 VJ21 rolling chassis with Kawasaki ZZR250 wheels and a Suzuki RM85 motor. It's no longer together as it was just built as an experiment bike.
+Nick Cummings Hey man, This dyno is a little homebuilt one that a friend and I put together. It's been going good for years now. It was designed around testing 30hp engines but i've had up to 90hp bikes on it now.
+Nick Cummings Nah I could never sell the NSR, i think ill have that bike for life now! The 300 kit is just from Tyga Performance in thailand who sell the kits.
Try water injection. It has been used with supercharged engines to control temps and detonation. Ratios from 20:1 gasoline and water up to 1:1 have been reported used.
Hi! Great work! Can I ask you how you came to the calculations that gave you the size blower that you made? Are you running it 1:1? I think a blower that size would bring a 200cc engine up to about 16 psi at 1:1. I'm wondering if the blower can be made a bit smaller to feed a 200cc engine.
Hi there, I am in the process of cnc'ing my BV20 lathe... How did you do your x axis? Its a bit hard to see :( At present i am going to use the standard z axis bearings but progress into something like yours.
+wymiatacz006 Pochwalisz się w najbliższym czasie na jakimś video? Ja zamierzam coś niedługo wrzucić z moim Trance, tylko czekam na kamerkę sportową...
Its none of my business, its your preference, but you might want to consider tightening up your fork just a little... If you hit any HARD landings then you are gonna bottom out.... but good video...how is the bike? i'm considering getting one
Luke Brandon Hey Luke, yeah I do like to run them a little soft for a lot of our trails here. They do bottom time to time but only when I botch a landing from a jump. Totally love the bike, best performer for value i've seen at the local enduro races i've done.
Harold Allen Poquiz I always run the front in descend mode, never have any trouble with pedal bob in the front when climbing. I usually run the rear in Trail mode for pretty much everything apart from the really knarly downhills
FlyfishermanMike Yeah I was a little hesitant on the base model fox 32s but after a full summer thrashing I really cant fault them to be honest. They have taken some big hits!
@@SketchyRacer and their super cheap. Traditional smog pumps are sliding vain and spin the wrong way. You can and i have used them but you must take it apart and flip the carbon ring and its a bitch to not break but i managed on the 4th attempt... Works great but if you over spin it you motor eats it. And their bigggg like 700cc/rev i spun one 5 times slower than the crank on a 220cc and made over 30psi.. I didnt continue with that endeavor although elsburg tuning did
