If you're passionate about exploring the world of marine engines, whether it's tinkering with outboard motors, or simply enjoying the fascinating world of boating, you've come to the right place. Welcome to our corner of the internet, where we dive deep into the heart of many.
With years of experience under the belt, I've had the privilege of working on a wide array of outboard motors, from trusted brands like Mercury, Evinrude, Johnson, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, and more. Our journey through the ups and downs of maintaining and repairing these marine engines has been an adventure of its own.
But we're not just here to share our knowledge; we're here to be your go-to resource for all things related to marine engines and boating. Thank you for tuning in, and if you haven't subscribed to our channel yet, it's free and just a click away. Your support means the world to us, and we can't wait to share more adventures and insights with you in the future.
Hi am so interested in your work on outboard, now I have bought 1965 mercury 500 and I think I will follow your steps in reviving that beast .. do you mind if I text you or email you if I come across any difficulty. Also would like to upgrade the rectifier so what what is best rectifier on the market for this kind of outboard
Hey man i really might need your help. I will be buying a used boat...it will be my first fuel injected 4 stroke...i got two options from d8fferent sellers..the boat is a ryds 535 fc. Arround 18ft long and 520kg heavy. Engines are mercury 50hp 2004 and this johnson same block but 60hp from 2003. What wld u choose?
@@hawkeyemarine hey there I'm also enjoying Ur videos looked through a couple already how can I get in touch with you I'm looking to restore my oolllldddd 50hp mercury thunderbolts
Just bought a 1974 mercury 500 and the motor seems locked up. Starter will engage but not spin the motor the prop is also stuck so I'm thinking that this motor may be stuck in gear I put a ratchet on top of the flywheel and took the spark plugs out still nothing it will not budge any thoughts on what it could be I hope this motor is not blown up
Checked your spark plug wires for continuity? Have the same motor in a 2011 model. Been fighting a miss myself and ohm tested plug wires and found two that were bad.
When you were looking for the number 2 spark I saw that you had another spark around 120 degrees clockwise showing number 3. The number 2 coil should only show a single spark around the flywheel not two sparks, one at the right place plus another one anywhere around the flywheel. It seems like number 2 coil is sending two sparks, one where it should and a second one where it shouldn't. That looks like a bad switchbox. A good switchbox should send only one pulse per revolution for each coil. Not two nor three pulses, but just a single one at the right position of the flywheel. These engines tend to have bad coils that kill the switchbox. The engine seems to work alright because each cylinder gets the right spark on tine, but a second spark should never appear when checking the timing. Each sparkplug should spark only once per revolution, when the piston is at, or very close, to the upper dead point. If the sparkplug sends a second spark this could cause ignition of the air and fuel mixture inside the cylinder getting flames inside very much the same as any engine working right sends flames only towards the exhaust manifold. A second or a third spark out of time may cause an extreme heat inside a cylinder. I think this is what is causing my 1997 Mercury 135hp v6 to trigger the temperature alarm when temperature gauge reads 3/4 of full deflection after a couple of minutes at above 3000 or 4000 rpm getting planing speeds. I have replaced water pump, thermostats and poppet valve but my engine keeps getting too hot, although it runs powerful. Another weird symptoms are some pops when starting sometimes. I am going to order 6 new coils and 2 new switchboxes.
I have a vintage 70's Merc Thunderbolt 50HP 2 stroke 4 cylinder that I rebuilt and got running, but it idles very high in neutral!. Anyone know what I need to adjust to get it to idle properly?. I was thinking it could maybe be the cable that comes from the Mercontrol/throttle/choke, and maybe I need to adjust one of the stop screws on the side?, and I know one does timing so I just need to know which one to adjust so I don't accidentally end up screwing something up!?. Any advice would be very much appreciated!. I want to go on the water, but I can't because I know if I put it in gear with it idling that high that it'll be bad news bear! lol. Could you possibly do a video explaining which screws are for what for the adjustment and describe what you did up close on the engine itself for those of us still learning?. That would be awesome!. It's hard to tell exactly what you did to adjust it from the camera distance.
My camera skill then were terrible sorry. If I remember right its the screw on the plate right most screw. The plate in front of the distributor. You should be around 800-1200 in gear idling. The 800-1200 range will be related to the health of the compression of the engine.
@@hawkeyemarine Thanks for the response!. DO you happen to have any videos showing how you determine whether it's in the 800-1200 range?. I honestly do not know how that is done?. Do you need a timing light or special tool?. I don't have a timing gun/light. I got the boat used and it wouldn't run, the starter was seized and the electronics were fried so all I did was replace the starter, did a carb rebuild kit on it, and put in a new Stator and power pack, I never touch any of the timing settings or anything to do with the engine itself, and when I put the new power pack in it fired right up. It runs smooth with no sputter or anything, it just seems to sound like it's idling a bit high to me in neutral, so I haven't tried putting it in gear yet to be safe. So that leads me to think that maybe it's just a matter of the cable coming from the Mercontrol and maybe I just need to play with the idle adjustment stop screws on the side first before messing with getting a timing light/gun as I cannot afford one at the moment lol. It's possible that the cable length needs to be played with a bit as I did take out the mercontrol unit to work on it, and it may have moved a little bit. I'll mess with the screw you mentioned and see if that does it. I feel like it doesn't need much of an adjustment. When I use the cold start lever on the throttle control unit and then push it back down after it's run a bit it feels like I need it to be able to push down just a little more to get where it sounds like it is puttering nicely in idle. So yeah I'll give that a try. Thanks again for the advice and response. - Adam
I also have a vintage 70's Merc Thunderbolt 500 50HP 2 stroke 4 cylinder that I rebuilt and got running, but it idles very high in neutral!. Anyone know what I need to adjust to get it to idle properly?. I was thinking it could maybe be the cable that comes from the Mercontrol/throttle/choke, and maybe I need to adjust one of the stop screws on the side?, and I know one does timing so I just need to know which one to adjust so I don't accidentally end up screwing something up!?. Any advice would be very much appreciated!. I want to go on the water, but I can't because I know if I put it in gear with it idling that high that it'll be bad news bear! lol
I have one of these vintage 70's Merc Thunderbolt 50HP 2 stroke 4 cylinder that I rebuilt and got running, but it idles very high in neutral!. Anyone know what I need to adjust to get it to idle properly?. I was thinking it could maybe be the cable that comes from the Mercontrol/throttle/choke, and maybe I need to adjust one of the stop screws on the side?, and I know one does timing so I just need to know which one to adjust so I don't accidentally end up screwing something up!?. Any advice would be very much appreciated!. I want to go on the water, but I can't because I know if I put it in gear with it idling that high that it'll be bad news bear! lol. Mine is identical to this one.
I just subscribed to your RU-vid channel a few weeks ago and I think I’ve already watched all of your videos. I’ve really enjoyed all of your content. Keep it up and thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Did you try soaking the cylinders to see if it would free up? I looked up your business and your 176 miles from me near Nashville. I’m in the south east of Tn. To bad for me. Keep us posted what you end up doing next on that engine. Thanks
I have a question. Same engine but I have compression 102-105 in all cylinders besides cylinder 5 at 125. Occasionally Stalls at idle. What does this sound like to you?
I can look at it but it going to be awhile. I am really covered up right now. Send me an email to jhawknz@gmail.com or send along your contact information. That way I can put you in my book. I get to everyone as I go down the list. Being the middle of the season it is very busy. Thanks for reaching out.
Hey Hawkeye! I was wondering if you could give me some advice, I’m working on a similar motor though and it’s an older 200 20HP, a 1966 model and the motor ran great until I removed the stator plate trying to fix a spark issue (broken kill switch wire to the points) and when I put the stator plate back on, I had great spark but it was different timing. I put the flywheel in the exact position that it was in, however i got absolutely nothing when trying to start it on ether and then I tried putting the flywheel in the exact opposite position where I got a few backfires and what not from the engine. What could cause this? How do I go about getting it in time? I’m not locating anything jumping out at me as timing marks. When I replaced the stator plate back on the crankshaft, did I need to ensure that it was at top dead center? I’m kind of new to this kind of thing and I’m getting a little overwhelmed by it so I figured anything would help! Thank you!
That one is not easy. All I can really say is take your time. That link and sync with the carbs is pretty critical. Its been a few years since I worked on one. Buy a Seloc manual.
Wish you weren’t so far, I’d pay to have to go through my 1984 to get it running g well again. It stumbles, hole shot is bad, hard to start after running..
You must turn off QuickStart before doing the timing the way you are doing it. Also with optical ignition system the top cover must be placed otherwise your timing light and even sunlight will mess with the sensor!
@@hawkeyemarine I finally got it had to run the timing up to 9 on idle and it is running like a top. Thanks for your videos I have learned a tremendous amount continue doing what you do love it
Nice video! I have an intermittent miss similar to the one you had and I’m trying to fix. How did you determine it was the compressor? Also, you might want to look into an oil pump prime to ensure there’s oil in your new compressor. Looking forward to a CCM reeds video!
Bayliner fiberglass never dies . They delivered it to the factories in railcars . They had all they wanted . The floor may go bad but the rest of the boat last forever .
The rectifier just charges your battery. Takes the AC signal generated by the stator and rectifies it into DC voltage. Usually you will lose your tachometer.
