Im a retired Pro Natural Bodybuilder who loves water sports specially a "Fliteboard" enthusiast... SUP surfing, Kayaking, Wing foiling, E-foiling...Among other hobbies, motorcycling, sports cars and intearction with my competitors bodybuilder clients. Sport product reviews, stupid and fun stuff all over. Thank you for stoping by and please subscribe and lets interact...Be safe and be good to each other.
Hi Rolando, I think I understand the effect of the back negative shims well. It ultimately helps you bring the nose down allowing to place your back foot closer towards the mast. What I am having trouble understanding is the effect of the front negative shim. From looking at the shim shape I can see that it increases the angle of attack of the Front wing, therefore creating for lift and pitch in the front. But in your video you said that you are adding a negative front shim to be able to ride with your feet more towards the back. I would think you would need a more forward stance to counter the more lift in the front. IN theory, aren't the negative shims in the front and back counteracting each other when used simultaneously? The EfoilSolutions blog post reads: "We recommend starting to add neg front shims if using -3, -4, or -5. Some advanced riders use a -1 or -2 front shim with 0, +1, or +2 on the stab to adjust the pitch or the board and allow better control while carving." This two statements seem to be contradicting each other. Are more advance users riding with really high pitches? I would think the contrary. (negative shims in the back , positive in the front) I am having trouble understanding what is the combined effect on the pitch of both of these cases: "negative front/ negative back" "negative front / positive back" As you can see by my questions, I am really confused about the whole thing.. LOL
YEs... it is confusing...the front shims ARE negative angle to the original set up for sure...maybe you got confused because you are looking "upside down"...Now it depends what type of conditions you are riding on...if you are in flat water you will benefit from having the both front and back on negative shims if your goal is to step more towards the back of your board...So starting with -1 drone and - 1 back will level the board down from angle of attack...I actually like -1 on front and -2 on the back...However if you are "dowinding or surfing" you will get a better response from getting negative on front and positive on the back cause of the way the wave puts pressure on the foil...is not an "straight line"...is a curved "current" if you will...and depending how steep the wave is ...the more play you will have to do with the configuration between the shims...I dont do much of surfing or downwinding ...justg very little but I kind understand the concept...Put this way...it will be much easier for you to tune up your ride on a flat lake then will be at the ocean with waves and swells ... so again...if you are on flat water try negative on front and back...I hope this helped
@@Coach_Rolando Yes, It was really confusing, fortunately a buddy from the Facebook group sent me this video that really helped me understand the front shimming, I was not understanding how shimming the front Wing upwards was actually bringing the nose down but now I understand. Maybe you can make a similar video more targeted towards E-foils: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mVdSx5eNdUA.html
@@RafaelGarcia-uz1we sorry to say this to you bud… but disregard everything he said… that is an regular non powered foil… for surfing, wing foiling and so on. We have an Efoil … the power comes from the back of the fuselage and it will always create more lift and torque then a regular foil, (completely diff hydrodynamics)…I started wing foiling and trust me you can’t to apply the same rules of balance from a regular foil to an Efoil… I had to learn it all over again…. You are waisting your time and confusing yourself even more trying to apply the same rules from a regular foil to an Efoil.
@@Coach_Rolando My main confusion comes from the fact that the negative front shim is thinner towards the front and thicker towards the back. This in turns increases the angle of attack which should be pushing the nose upwards , not downwards. I think the video helped me understand that a upward angle on the front wing can also result in the nose pointing down. Don't you think it makes sense even its its about a non-powered board? How else can you explain that by increasing the angle of the front wing upwards the nose still points down more?
Hi Rolando. Thanks for the video on this board. Question for you: Did you notice any flexing of the board when compared to the carbon board. CF is usually a good bit stiffer. Also, do you think that the fiberglass board will take hitting and stopping in soft silt or mud more likely to crack around the mast mounts than the CF board? Thanks man.
@@michaelvadney5803 Hello… I had big problems in terms of flexibility… I would see that with a surfboard or acSUP board…,however on a Efoil if there is… is not noticeable… they are strong as well… not problems in that department. Now I have “ripped” off the mast box on both boards in the past … meaning my mast broke off from both boards at the same condition…, going super fast (28 mph) and hitting sand dunes to a completely stop. So that will happen in any board if you make that mistake. I have the visors here on my Chanel. So it is s good board… now the only downside is that is about 2.5 lbs heavier … which is not a big deal… also it flakes easier then the carbon cause it has s gel coating … other then that is fine … I hope this helps
That does help, thanks for the clarity Rolando. I currently own a GetFoil board that I like, but as you probably know, the company folded. They just never hit the sales volume needed to stay afloat. The next board will be a Flightboard.
@@michaelvadney5803 trust me I did my research for 2 years before I bought mine… I put my board to hell and back and still works fine… off course besides cosmetic damage. You will not regret. Let me know if you need help on your purchase .. I can help you to make sure you will get the correct set up and also give you $200 to $300 cash back after you buy it depending on the model ok? Cheers
Looking good. Me too enjoy to fliteboard in harsh conditions. A quick question if I may. Been riding for about a year (80 houres). Use Flow & Flyer wings. Keep below gear 11. I picked up the Race wing and went to gear 15. Doing this the battery overheat (led flashing red) and bring me into limp mode for a couple of minutes. This keep happening when using the Race wing at higher gears. Is this anything you have experienced? Greeting Fred from Sweden.
Hey bud....great...so you are a speed freak like me lol...No...I never had that problem before...I have all the wings you mention and my favor still the flyer...I used the race wings when I want to go really fast...and the ocasions I did used it it never got to be too warm or flashing anything...Im 190lbs or about 85kilos and used my pro board...so is not much weight...also I did that when was colder...water temp about 60...so I really dont know how you experienced that at all. sorry for not being able to help...I hope you will be able to find the problem.
@@chancemccool It was a nice day until I got to the water… so I did not want to “chick out”… turned out to be Dan and scary at the same time. Not sure if I really want to take the thunder storms as Russian roulette wit the bolt striking.
One more question, I have seen other articles diving not to charge lithium batteries to 100%. Do you think there may be additional benefits to not fully charge the battery before riding, for example just top it off to 90% before your session? OR is this feature already built-in the battery, for example the battery displays 100% but in reality the cells are only charged to 80% internally? I would not mind going out at 90% as I mostly always end up around 35% in my explorer battery. I don't mind limiting the range a little on those days I don't really need it. If I know it's a day where I need more range in the session then I could do 100%. Please let me know your thoughts in this topic.
@@RafaelGarcia-uz1we I’m not sure about the 90% charge up with lithium… I guess if that was a problem Tesla would automatically now allow their cars fully charge up. And they go to much more charge cycles then we do. Do I could not give a good answer about they… now for sure the discharging no less than 20 or 15 and not charging up right after a run is kind the best things you can do. Sorry for not being able to help as much as
Oi Rolando, tudo bem? I have a question about these best practices. I know some of these advice is for the older version of the battery. Do you recommend leaving the magnet and battery on on the new titanium 2.2 flitecell ? or you don't think this is necessary with the new BMS. Also, don't you think that using the slow charger might benefit the life of the battery? doesn't fast charging stress and heat up the cells out a bit more? You mention in another comment that both slow and fast chargers have the same rate of charging, how is that possible if the fast one does it at 1/3 the time compared to the slow, it has to be charging at a faster rate, no? I know that on the slow chargers you can set a maximum target charge of 50%, 90% or 100%, I really like that feature so I am considering getting a slow charger for when I am not in a rush to recharge. What's your take on it? Do you think the benefits of slow charging and maximum target charge is worth the extra cost of the slow charger?
@@RafaelGarcia-uz1we Back then there was not the slow charger available for us… that is why I said “they all charge in the same rate”… referring to the fast charger… also all these “protocols” are generally good for all “lithium” batteries. From the 2.0 to the 3.0 to current. I’m deff not an expert of “lithium battery” charging… but that protocol was the general suggestion I got from most “Fliteboard dealers”, technicians inside of Flite, friends from MIT who gave me advices in how to charge… so is a collection of opinions. Now if Flite is suggesting the slow charge being better for the longevity of the battery I would not ignore that at all. They are deff the ones who better know about the cycle life if the battery. Sorry if I was not able to answer your question perfectly but I hope this helps. I also suggest you to can Flite HQ in Cali… they would be more helpful. Cheers
@@Coach_Rolando Thanks Rolando. I think I will include in my protocol slow charging to 50% after riding and then before the session top it off to just 90% and see how that works. Thanks for all your help as always, your videos are super helpful to all of us newbies :)
Yes… but the chargers only charge at one speed or rate… so again…in case you will not be riding again in the same day or just a few days later… the best thing to do is. 1 wait to the battery to cool off with the magnet on do the cells can even out. 2 charge up to only 25 to 30% and leave the key in to even the cells … once is charged wait until the day you will ride again. 3 on the day you will ride top off the charge to 100%, once is charged leave the key in until you go riding. Finally once you done riding make sure you will never run the battery to 0%… try to stop at 20 to 15% left. This way your battery will last much longer. I have my first 2.0 battery for 3 years now and apparently I only lost 10%. I hope this helps
Hey...what you are going to do...it was sunny and nonce I got there start to have a thunder storm...so I played Russian Roulette with the weather...but honestly is really cool and super energetic...lol
This is the EXACT video I was looking for! I’m Wanting to get an efoil but it’s already approaching fall in Alaska so I needed to see if a dry suit would actually be good enough! Thanks
@@cephasekuase1483 it deff will be better than wetsuit… just makes sure is a bit loose. Glad to know it helped. Please consider subscribing and have fun out there.
@@surfsnowpro I use now the Insta 360 X4… I had an “X2” … as you can see on my previous videos it was good but not as good as the X4… Yes I use a selfie stick but all the “360” cameras deletes the stick automatically from the footage. They are great, pricy but worth it. I recommend to watch s lot of tutorial videos as how to set it up and how too edit cause it can be complicate at first. Cheers
Great video Ronaldo. I am a friend of Jeff's and was involved in creating these. Another possible benefit for power off wave riding or pumping is that the longer fuselage tail has more leverage and may require less shims to get your desired results. Keep in mind the zero shim should have the least drag. Adding positive or negative shims add more and more drag as you get farther from zero. Example; A friend likes the glide he gets from using a positive #4 shim. With a longer fuselage tail he may be able to get the same results with a positive #2 or #3 shim and have less drag. Also heavier riders still want to have their rear foot over the mast when powering off. A longer fuselage tail will help support their weight on the back of the board.
@@scottw5107 Very good and interesting points… I did not thought about that… as a 185lbs rider I often forget the benefits for the heavier rider and focus more in the lighter riders. Great “creations” you are are coming out with. Good to know that you guys are pushing the sport. Thank you and keep up with the good work man. Looking forward to the next upgrade. Cheers
Glad it helps man...with time it might come undone doe to sun and water...then I just use super glue to glue it back...but is deff worth to have it to protect the nose...thank you for the comment...I just posted a video now about upgrades for your fliteboarod...enjoy it. and thank you again.
@@Coach_Rolando I am sad to hear that the sun and water makes it come off. I don't want to use anything permanent like super glue on the board. Do you know how long it takes for it to come off?
@@RafaelGarcia-uz1we Is not going to come off that easily… however it might. I understand about glue on the board. However let me assure this… I was also very concerned with my board to keep it “nice clean and beautiful”… but the truth of the matter is that you will ding your board, scratch and have damage in the future. Is like buying a brand new car… you take really good care of it, but after the first incident or a scratch you don’t mind as much lol… So with that said I’m sure you will not mind with the super glue in the future… besides you can sand it down afterwards… but having the nose guard is much better then now having it at all.
Hey Rafael...thank you so much for the kind words...great too know that is helping you out and other people. I got several videos coming up soon about more gear for beginners and any levels as well...again...thank you for your comments and please consider subscribing and sharing ...be safe out there bud. cheers
Great video, NE ocean water is horrible all year. :-) One of the things I want to do when I get better is take a tour of the NH and ME lakes since the board is so portable. I could probably hit a lake in the morning, charge in the car, hit another lake in the afternoon. My lake is 78 (25C) right now which is great. I'll never go in the ocean. ;-)
@@ryandetzel848 Absolutely… That is why prefer to ride at Charles River most the time. The once will get warmer but not until August or September… then stays warmer until November… but even in its most warm days it does not goes about 70… New England surf sucks for sure. Just watch out in the lakes to shallow areas. Be safe out there bud and thank you for watching.
We found the Cruiser 1100 up front with a Flow 245 out back to be a great stable combo this summer. 0 shim. The Flow S 1100 up front with Flow 245 in back is super turny and stable at high speeds, but the back is definitely much looser in this pairing.
@@davidoberhofer581 For all my beginners i use the shim #2… is stable and fast enough speed…anything higher then that makes the nose of the board go to high. Also I had the Cruiser wing with the 290 stab and the prop guard. Thank you for watching.
@@denisgiroux871 thank you bud…Glad you liked the review. The van is an 1985 VW Westfalia Camper… I have the video here when I first got it, fixed and I got to make um up to date cause she is very diff when I fist got her. It is a fun little bus lol. I use it to carry my gear around and teach lessons. Is my mobile office lol.
I was out yesterday in Qatar ... the water temp was 99F (37c) and the air temp got up to 120F (49c). These are all out of the battery operating comfort zone!!
Way to 🥶! Takes the fun out of it. Don’t forget about middle America Kansas! Rode on 80degree water and 99 degree air temp today! Water is green and murky but it works! Thanks for all your videos and advice!
He used both boards ...when he was on the 100L gray board it was with the prop guard, +2 shim and 1100 cruiser wing...then he took my Pro green board with 0 shim and 800 flyer wing.
Hey brother...long time no see...I keep on saying...we got to make an stupid video...me pooling you with my efoil could be one...by the way...some one contacted me asking about "kitesurfing" lessons...do you know anyone around Boston "papa David" and "T" mention to me before but I cant remember....say hello to the Bay Crew for me...I got to stop by someday. Enjoy your 4th July weekend.
We’ve been using these all season while Fliteboarding. Main tip is to use with Shokz open ear headsets. The wind noise can make it hard to hear at flying speeds. The Shokz stay on in a crash, are highly water resistant, and you can hear much better without losing the sounds of your surroundings. It’s ideal for teaching! Plus, they are having wireless software updates that are adding more benefits as they continue to develop the system, just like Tesla. Finally, we tried the clip and the arm band, and the arm band is most secure but not as convenient. I think there is room for improvement in this area still. Overall we are very happy with our Milo’s!
@@JoshEstelle They are the Open Run model. Waterproof rating of IP87, which is the same as the Milo’s. Your head doesn’t stay wet long when you fall, and they have been fine so far. Plus, and this is huge, when you aren’t using them with Milo for communications, you can listen to your favorite music while riding. It really makes the ride become next level, just carving listening to good tunes. So fun! I just put my iPhone in a cheap waterproof iPhone lanyard and tuck it under my Flite Impact vest. Works awesome and the addition of music to the jam of flying is next level. (Disclaimer: I ride 100% of the time with a helmet, and this keeps the headset on when I crash. Not sure if that would happen without the helmet, so plan on losing them if you don’t use a helmet.)
I have a crack leading edge of my wing. it is very fine but when you squeeze the front of the wing i can see water squish out. Should I try to drill holes or something to make sure all water is out before trying to repair using your method?
@@mikeb4414First of all I would let the wing in the sun for at least one day to evaporate the water… now you could drill the wholes to give a better strength to the relaid… however it friends where on the leading edge is… if the crack is in the mid of the ring go ahead, but if is in the ends I would not. But make sure that you will fill up the holes with resin. Also make sure you are wearing s face mask when you are sanding the carbon
@@michaelvadney5803 Hello… to be honest o could not tell you for sure. But I don’t think would be much. Maybe 10% on your learning curb cause your “take off” will take longer at first… but the problem is not there… even after you get better the air is a bit “bulky” and trust me that volume in a windy day make a big difference. Honestly if this going to be “YOUR” board and not many people will be using then I would go for the fiber glass cause it will deff be your “progression” any way and is deff worth the extra $$$. But if you are sharing this board with tons of friends and family and you are no using it all the time, then the air will be a better choice. I hope this helps. Cheers and have fun with your new toy. If you need any help in purchasing one just let me know.
Great video! One Milo tip from snowboarding with them: mount them on everyone's 'front' shoulder (so under your chin as you ride) and they work even better 🤙
Yes...that is exactly where I had mine...on my PFD shoulder strap ...one thing that I found out too just today speaking to Peter from Milo...he saw my video and gave me some good pointers...On water sports there is always a lot wind and water off course....so he suggested to get a "waterproof bone conductor headphones"...I saw several on Amazon for $30...so I can see how better the sound will be...also there is a bottom on Milo "smile face" that you press after you get wet and mile clears the water from the mike...I did not know that...so I hope this helps you too.
@@Coach_Rolando I meant that in the video, it's on your back/right shoulder - switching it to the front/left shoulder makes a nice improvement to what everyone hears
