Hi everyone, welcome to JG Garage! This is a start up auto detailing channel where I will be showing car cleaning and product demonstration that I hope you will enjoy!
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(Not a Car Dude... Yet.) Since these are so bright, wouldn't it be better as highbeams instead of low beams? Or is this model specific for the lowbeam connector type?
Hey there. The oil cooler gasket that normally fails is between the oil cooler and the oil filter housing. Only oil passes through this gasket. Coolant runs inside through the oil cooler and is a closed system and shouldn't mix with the oil there. I haven't heard/seen where the oil cooler actually breaks and causes internal coolant leaking into the oil. Usually coolant mixed with oil is a head gasket issue. Have you overheated?
UK here. Been researching this job as the original FoMoCo-labeled cooler on my Japan-built '06 Mazda3 2l is starting to weep at the downward-facing coolant connection due to corrosion of the steel though it's still oil-tight. The manuals give the torque for the four filter block to engine block bolts as 20-30 Nm / 14.8-22.1 ft-lb. There's a note on applying silicone sealant to the oil pressure switch/sender threads making sure the first 1-2mm is kept clear "to prevent a possible operation malfunction". Torque is given as 12-18 Nm / 9-13 ft·lbf.
I didn't at the time since people at the forum told me it's not needed since it doesn't spin but looking at the diagram in the video, looks like there was a oil can symbol. I think adding a little would be fine.
Just ordered the parts . the spin is not listed for the 2009 cx7 turbo but stating from 2010 . i believe this is due to the age of the car. so ordered one of those. going to do it this weekend. Wish me luck
I'm trying to do this on my base model 2004 mazda 6 and idk what the coolant hosing connects to. There's two closed connections on the bottom of the radiator, but I feel like it should be connected somewhere else. Can anyone help inform me?
I bought a LED 9006 low beam for my civic 2009 from amazon, After reading the good reviews. When installed, it blinds the other vehicules. Many of them are mad almost road rage. Not sure about this model.
Awesome video. DISI engine need SP API oil. The new standard works better with DI engines and alleviates the issue of zoom zoom boom due to low engine speed high knock.
Mine is a 2004 (2004 MAZDA3 2.3L MT HATCHBACK S), and it's appears to be leaking (and onto the ground). I have not looked to see if it's leaking from this very part, but I have not jacked the car up yet but that plastic bottom-most cover has oil all over it. Could it be just the Oil Filter needs replaced ?
You need to use the original style clamps. Those allow for the plastic to expand and contract without cracking over time. The clamps you used are meant for metal pipes.
I released a video regarding my new toolbox which I then bought a drawer liner because it didn't come with any. I decided to film the drawer liner to review it since not all liners are the same. I included cutting up the liner for content and titled it the way I did for audience reach. There's a lot of drawer liner videos on RU-vid if you haven't noticed. Appreciate the comment on my video though.
Yes but the only difference is you would need to buy the oil filter housing without the oil cooler adapter which is on top of the housing. I have a link to that part in my description however it seems to be out of stock on Amazon right now.
@@MaSta74372 That's interesting. At the time when I did research to do this project, I learned that I needed to replace the bolt to the updated bolt when using the updated cooler. I never bothered comparing the two bolts but now I wish I did. The two bolts however are different part numbers so I figured it was just different. Here's a diagram showing both set ups (old & new) with the respective bolt with part number. ci.catcar.info/mazda_2018_02/usa/2E08RU1.png
It's been a while since I last saw how the halogen looked. However it is true that halogen can still be brighter then LED but these are quite bright and I can't stand the yellow of halogen. Still makes the LED worth it in my opinion. lol
I know this is old but great informative video. Question: I'm about to do this job on my Jaun. And I came across the the oil cooler part you called out on Edge's site. Why is their part nearly 400 more expensive? What Am I missing? Any ideas?
Thanks for watching! Yes I saw that one as well when I was browsing for the parts. Honestly I don't know why they charge that much. Their website pretty much seems to be charging dealership prices for oem parts. The parts in the description are all OEM Mazda parts but for cheaper.
@@jggarage1807 thanks for the quick reply. Yes, stealership pricing is more like it. Keep up the good work on your videos. Hopefully it's netting you some extra play funds to buy go-fast bits for whatever platform you're on right now 👍🏾✌🏾
Hi JG Garage. Great video and professionally executed. I think I can perform this job with confidence. I do need to replace my coolant hose. Can you provide a link for this part ?
I don't think your gasket failed - they way you installed the oil pressure sensor was wrong - you need to put joint compound on it. That is probably where your oil is leaking from.
It is indeed the gasket that failed because the leak is coming from above the oil pressure sensor. It is leaking from the mating joint of the oil cooler above and the oil filter housing below so that only indicated the oil cooler gasket. Also, I never touched or removed the oil pressure sensor during the first repair when I just replaced the gasket with the original oil cooler. Before this video, I did wonder if I needed to put any kind of sealant on the oil pressure sensor threads and from what I read online and group pages, I learned it was not necessary and I saw someone use Teflon tape but I wasn't comfortable using that. Ever since this video was made to today, the whole repair hasn't leaked, neither from the oil cooler nor from the oil pressure sensor.
