Thank you for the return visit and comment! Long story short, its a dead game that is becoming harder and harder to find the miniatures for. My local game store had a ton of Dust items on hand, and he was trying to get rid of it on ebay and having a hard time. So he sold all of what he had to me for a huge discount. Originally it was by Paolo Parente (the game was based on comics he did) and got it pushed by Rackham Entertainment. At some point Rackham dropped them or closed, I can't remember. Fantasy Flight Games then picked up the IP and then later dropped it. Dust 1947 hung around a little longer but it died again. Sometimes you can find it under "Dust Tactics", "Dust Warfare", or "Dust 1947", as it underwent a few changes throughout its history.
Nice video! The new AP Fanatics Mega Paint Set actually includes a pretty good paint stand that will fit all the inluded bottles, in the fashion of their Painting Station paint holders. I wish they brought that out as a separate unit.
Thank you for the visit and comment! I had seen the new box set with the stand and considered buying it, but I ended up taking a different route and went down the road of gouache and heavy body acrylic paints typically used by canvas painters. I do use a lot of Army Painter paints still, though. I just wished they had that paint stand in the mega paint set from their original line.
I'm puzzled how/why you bought a vortex mixer without researching, or having any idea how they work 🤔 I use the smaller, dome shaped Four E's mixer for general use but I also have one of the nail polish shakers that I use for paints that have sat and settled for a while. I have joint issues and it's handy to be able to just set it running and leave it for a few minutes without having to hold the paint. If you have access to a 3D printer, there are some files I found online for 'cup like' adapters. They fit onto the bottom, or top, of paint bottles and have a small dome on the base that better fits into the top of the vortex mixer; more like the test tubes they were originally designed for.
Thank you for the comment and repeat visits, as always. I'm getting there. The barrage of bad luck seems to have lifted and the foot is getting there. Swelling almost gone and can walk without a limp now. Likely just a hairline fracture on the big MTP joint, so just a little more time and everything will be right as rain.
Sweet! I have been painting up my In Space Rangers, Psycho Rangers and going to do the minions in the set this week. Waiting for a new airbrush to come. Sorry to hear about your issues bud hopefully things will take a better turn soon. Doing more physical stuff can help alot with stress. It helps plus get stronk 💪🏻 my deadlift is 240kg for 2 reps (529 lbs
Thank you for the visit and comment! I'm working my way through the old episodes again, and am going to try to make it to the current day this time. I do hit the weights regularly, or at least I did before I dropped that log on my foot. I actually had gotten my own power rack. Though I'm not hoss enough to deadlift 500+. I live on a farm so I generally do lighter weight at a much higher rep count. Little safer on my back so I can keep the property up and keep the animals fed/watered. Deadlifts are king for farm work.
I have two questions. 1. How do you move the bed? With right bottom of the mouse? 2. How can move the images at the base so be sure not to be in the 'air'?
Thank you for the visit and questions. See my answers below, thought it might be worth noting that I am right-handed and use a right-handed configured mouse. The shortcuts commands I provided are also for Windows machines. I'm not sure what they would be for a MAC, but you can look for the select@all_select_select and the edit@move shortcuts by going to Help > Shortcuts in the Chitubox menu, to see what is configured by default. 1. I use the mouse to move/manipulate the camera position and the models. I hold down the wheel-mouse button (does the same thing as holding down the left-click) to pan up, down, left, or right without any rotation. I hold down the right mouse button to rotate above, below, or around the models. 2. The answer to this one depends on the scenario. If your model is just floating above the base and needs no rotational adjustments made, then select the model and open the Move Command window by pressing CTRL+M. Then click "Put on the Plate." That will drop it all the way down onto the plate. In the other scenario, if your model needs to be rotated and lowered, then you'll want to select the model, open the Rotate Command window by pressing CTRL+R, click "Flatten by Face", and then left-click the part of the model that you want to touch the base, such as the bottom of the feet. If your still unsure, then let me know. I can make a quick youtube short video of how to move the models flat onto the plate.
Thanks for your response. It could help a sort video. Also I would appreciate a video showing us how we can print in parts figures in bigger scales, how we can measure the exactly dimensions for example the height of all parts together etc. Thanks again!
Hopefully these answer your questions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Zkl97RfmDc.html - standing a floating model onto the build plate ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dYApAFnXWx0.html - changing the scale of a model in multiple pieces ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mbvlbePT6Mk.html - assemble pieces and measure height
Thank you for the comment and the visit! And thanks for the mention of the music. All of it was written by either myself or myself and a friend, and was composed through a midi app with a couple of plugins. One day I'll sit down and record it with live instruments, just haven't taken the time to do it yet.
Very impressive and thank you for the guide! Have you thought about dabbling with Epic Basing bits? They have a few plant STLs/resin bits for swamp bases. Definitely going to use some of the basing bits you listed at the end of the video!
Thank you for the return visits and comments. I have not. I actually haven't even heard of them before, but I will check them out. I've pulled some free stls off popular 3d printing sites for foliage, but most of them are a handful of items at best, likely not a big pack of .stls like i'm sure is available from Epic Basing.
Thank you for the comment and visit. Its definitely helpful, especially when you're trying to remember how you painted a skin tone from 2 years ago. What I put in my videos for viewers isn't actually how I do it for myself, personally. If you want a peak at more of what it looks like, try the link at the end of this comment. Its an overview video of everything I painted last year, but the link should skip you to the end right where it does a real quick skim showing what my personal spreadsheet looks like. I found it important to add little pictures of the mini also, because I started to forget what some of the model's names were. If it doesn't skip you straight to the spreadsheet, the timestamp should be 7:41 for it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i0jRP83ERt4.htmlsi=jKXwtNSbXZKhF4ZK&t=461
Thank you for the praise, visit, and comment! I have another video on snow basing that demonstrates its durability if you are interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vTsuc2XRRLE.html
Thank you for the repeated visits, comment, and praise! Sometimes I feel like I am varying what I paint too much and consider focusing more on one type of thing. But, in the end, I feel like I'm learning more by forcing myself to paint things I wouldn't naturally choose to do on my own. This miniature was more as part of celebrating the fourth of July, and all the freehanding was definately out of my comfort zone.
Thank you for the comment and visit! Always good to hear praise and positive feedback. I'll be working on a copper dragon in the near future, so be sure to come back and take a look.
I typically paint a miniature with a white primer and bright speed paints and then use an oil wash of Burnt Umber and Black completely covering my paint job and then letting it set for an hour and then removing the wash with make up sponges. The results are pretty surprise for gaming miniatures. For a higher standard it doesn't work well if you ask me.
Thank you for the comment and visit! Yeah, I definately am going to keep giving oils ago. I like the results other folks get with it, I just haven't quite gotten it to work the way I would like yet. I think I'm going to try mostly oils in the next miniature I paint, though I will use lighter paints to give a good acrylic start to build off of
Thank you for the comment and visit! Yes, it was. Although I exported each track separately as .mp3s and then imported them into Reaper to add some additional mild effects, such as a little reverb, better chorus, a little more distortion, etc... Then dumped it out as a compiled .mp3.
Thank you for taking the time to let me know. There is definitely something odd going on . When I go to my phone's youtube app it shows up for me. When I use chrome on my pc it does not show up for me, but if i use edge on my pc (which is built from chrome) it also shows up for me. But if i refresh the page in edge and skip back to that timestamp, it no longer shows up. I'm not sure what's going on with it but I will send it to youtube support to take a look. I've removed it and saved the changes and added it back, and its still doing the same for me, even after clearing my browser cache.
@@workingwithminiatures0706 For this reason most RU-vidrs would always duplicate any links in the description. It's always better in general because if I return to the video I don't want to search the timestamp where the link was shown.
Thank you for the comment and visit! The intro is a snippet i wrote a couple years ago, the 2nd song and outro are somethings I co-wrote with a friend about 20+ years ago. These were all transcribed into guitar pro 6 as midis as I wanted a old school game feel, and then I pushed them through Reaper's recording software to add chorus effects to the guitars. Basically, there is other music on the channel, but with the exception of those 2, I wrote everything else. I'm going to start the process of properly recording it with real instruments and make a little playlist of "music of the channel" or something like that, as i've been asked a couple times about it. But I have to figure out how to copyright things (not that i suspect anyone would steal it for their own use), but i did put a lot of effort into them and rather be safe than sorry.
Thank you for the comment and visit! I definitely like the redbaker colors. I need to check their offerings again, as its been a while since I looked. I'm hoping they started making smaller ones, as they are a little tall to use with 28mm miniatures on small bases. It would be great to have little and these large ones to combine, especially on larger bases/terrain.
I find painting the glowing parts, the most fun part of painting Necrons. I’ve stopped using Tesseract glow out of boredom and especially after discovering other paints that provide some very interesting effects such as mantis Warrior, Aeldari Emerald. I like leaving the barrel of the gun silver, and then I typically will use a color such as absolution green, which makes the bright glow orbs and the line of energy that is connected to each one contrast against the dark green still shows the metallic silver as long as you Don’t overload your brush with dark green. I found a very neat technique of applying white inside the recesses, which is basically a transparent white from golden acrylics although any white ink should work because they are the consistency of water they surface tension should make the white pink automatically fill in the recesses, leaving no mistakes..
AK interactive cells, a paint from their third gen acrylic range called rubber black works perfectly when painting cables. I don’t know how they did it, but it looks very realistic..
Sorry. The majority of the paints used in this video, and nearly all the videos I have up until 2024 werefrom Army Painter. The only Vallejo products I actually have are primers, glaze medium, 1 blue that I've never opened, and 4 metallic paints. At the time, I did not own Army Painters mediums, but I was trying to use something other than just water to make the coverage smoother.
Homeboy just walked outside and found three four-leaved clovers in succession. Only times I've found four-leafed clovers is when I ate Lucky Charms cereal.
Thank you for the comment and visit! Glad you liked the pants. I will admit, I did not think it was going to come out that well and thought the last brightest highlight ruined it, but the glaze helped make it look right in the end.
I'm so going to use that xps one! I have a case to take to painting nights, and keeping my paints in the cubby I put them in has been a challange. (I figure I can make a second one to act as a lid to keep them still when my case is vertical)
Iordered one of these, I will glue in a styrene block into each side of the aluminum slide so it stops it from sliding out either way. I'm using it for much softer foam.
Thank you for the commend and visit! I almost did that but decided I needed a larger table due to the foam sheets I use come in 4 x 8 feet (1.22 x 2.44 meters). If you might have a need to cut larger sheets and have a little free time, take a look at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_psEB3ybHWk.html, where I build 2 table extensions for cutting larger pieces, one from wood and another from foam. It might give you an idea or two.
Thank you for the visit and comment! It is greatly appreciated. Oddly enough, my wife and I were discussing possibly taking a trip to either Nova Scotia or Switzerland in the near future.
Thank you for the visit and comment! I haven't played DND in so long, but I've been throwing random ideas together for a while now, its probably time I start tying them together and fleshing out a campaign!
Thank you for the comment and visit! And yes I did. The miniature I'm painting now and will hopefully have out this Sunday will continue his backstory into hers. There will be repercussions for his heinous actions! I tend to come up with little stories and take notes of them as I paint miniatures for later use in games. Come to think of it, I don't actually know if Reaper Miniatures has backstories for their miniatures they name. The package just said Talarand and I started to wonder why he had a skull shield, and just started making things up.
