Welcome to JBWorxStudio, this channel is dedicated to the creation of fun projects for your entertainment and inspiration. You will find content related to Woodworking, CNC Machining, CAD/CAM using Vectric, PathPilot, Eding CNC and Fusion 360. The making of jigs, fixtures and tools for your shop as well as art related objects like jewelry, pens, bottle stoppers and much more. My focus is always the easy explanation of what I am doing and why I am doing it this way.
Disclaimer: The videos are for entertainment purposes only, seek professional advise before attempting to replicate anything I do on RU-vid. -ABOUT- I am originally from Germany and after my metalworking, machine building apprenticeship education I ventured to college and received a degree in Manufacturing and Automation. During this time I very much enjoyed working for a master Goldsmith that inspired me to see objects not only from a standpoint of functionality but also perfection and beauty.
Hi, nice to see that this kind of 3d touch probe is also available as "npn-nc" as well........ usually (99,9%) of these are "npn-no". Unfortuntelly PGFUN does no send to Germany.
@@JBWorx Yes, correct. When I click on your link, Amazon says "This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location."
6:30 If your spindle is electrically isolated from the bed, it's really helpful to wire up an LED so it will light up when the tool makes contact. More precise and won't leave a mark on the workpiece like homing by feel. The same electrical conduction can be used for auto probing too. Obviously it also requires a conductive workpiece, though at least for Z probing, you can hold a piece of aluminum foil on top of the workpiece and touching the bed and probe to that for a reasonably repeatable position.
Yes that is a good suggestion. I also like the aluminum foil tape and just wrap the edge of the part if it is not conductive. However I stopped using this method after breaking a really expensive Datron bit. I set Z with my tool length sensor and use the 3D probe for x-y. It is accurate and fast.
Can I just confirm your minor thread diameter advice on the hole? For a standard manual tap, typical advice is to drill a hole that is the nominal diamter minus the pitch, so for an M10/1.5 pitch, the hole needs to be 8.5mm before tapping. That is the 'tap drill' size in reference charts, not the minor internal diameter. From charts, the minor internal diameter is about 0.2mm smaller (8.376mm for M10). So, which is it for a single tooth tap ? Drill out as per 'tap drill size', or machine it to minor internal diameter?
Great question. So in my experience the 8.376mm will result in a “No Go” thread as the good side of the tread gauge will not thread in. It’s too tight. It is much closer to the 8.5mm. Best is to make one test cut. I was lucky this fit the bold on the first try I usually need a couple of tests to get it just right. Also changing the thread mill out can result in a different fit (vendor to vendor). Interesting is also that you will notice a change from Fusion 360 to a different CAM program (Master CAM for instance). So lots of variables here it’s not rocket science but if you sell parts best is to invest into a thread gauge.
Sir, how do i know the top of a part if my machins is probing using a tool length sensor placed on my cnc table ? Do i have to premeasure its thickness first and enter somewhere in the probing function ? I have use a fixed thickness touch probe placed on top of a part and probed it. The probing macro knows the thickness of the probe hence it can 0 correctly above the part. Just that i don't understand how it can predict the top of a part if it is probing on a TLS placed on the table.
You will probe twice. First on the calibrated standard position on your table. This will tell the controller the length of the tool. Next you probe on top of the part. This will tell the controller where the z zero of the part is. Now for the next tool change you only need to measure on the standard position on the table. The controller calculates the offset from tool one to tool two. Hope this makes sense.
@@JBWorx thanks for the reply. Another thing I noticed, in the PDF with your drawings and list of materials, the Loc-Line on Amazon is the blue/orange type when I search for "Loc-Line 1/4” Coolant Hose assembly kit" and that kit does not come with the screw connector for the aluminium block end (output end). I'm also having trouble finding that type connector on the Loc-Line webpage. Do you have a part number for that? Thanks 🙂
Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together - they're very helpful! I picked up the normally open version of the 3d tester after your previous review and I love it. I've got it in a dedicated tool holder for an ATC spindle so that I can use it to probe x, y, and z. It has made multi-tool jobs a lot more pleasant!
Das mit der Kamera finde ich interessant. Nicht unbedingt zum edge finding, dafür ist es mir zu viel guesswork. Aber da könnte man evtl. selbst mit Eding so eine Art Steuerung wie bei Datron aufbauen, wo mit der Kamera die Bereiche gekennzeichnet werden, die der Taster anfährt. Letztes Jahr waren beim open house day von Eding ein paar Jungs da, die da eine vielversprechende Demo gezeigt hatten... Gibt aber imho zwei Dinge zu lösen. 1. Haltbarkeit der Kamera. Ich hatte mal einen ausfahrbaren 3D Finder an der Z-Achse und den haben die Schwingungen gekillt. Ne HD Webcam hat keine beweglichen Teile, könnte daher vermutlich auch dauerhaft klappen. 2. Sauberhalten der Linse. Meine Z-Achse ist an der Unterseite ziemlich verschmandet, mit einer fiesen Mischung aus KSS der MQL und feinsten Aluspänchen vom Gewindewirbeln. Da müßte die Linse irgendwie vor geschützt werden, mit einer Klappe, o.ä... Fänd ich klasse, wenn du in der Richtung etwas experimentieren würdest 👍
Ja ich hab ein USB Microscope mit einem Schutz (einfach nur ein Plastik Aufsatz vor der Linse) welches etwas weiter oben angebracht werden kann. Ich denke für Projekte wo man eh außen die komplette Kontur fräst ist das sehr interessant. Danke für dein Input - hatte einen pneumatic cylinder vorgesehen um die 3D Probe anzubringen (a la Datron schwingt also von oben runter im Halbkreis) … ist dann aber wohl nicht so eine gute Idee wenn deiner das nicht ausgehalten hat. Danke für dein Input.
@@JBWorx Ich hab da auf Insta mal einen etwas detaillierteren Post zu gemacht. Sowohl zur Mechanik des Ein- und Ausfahrens, als dann später auch zum Fail 👍
Hi @JBWorxStudio Thank you so much for the valuable content and information on this channel. Having recently moved to Eding CNC, I would love some more content on setup and use of this CNC software. So far I’ve only come across one German youtube channel, M5 by Michael Heyder, that explaines a bit about this software. Not being fluent in German makes it a bit difficult to follow this information.
Hey that is super awesome that you are using Eding CNC as well. Yes I know his channel - he has an accent as well so yes not as easy to understand. I will note down to make a set up video on Eding.
@@JBWorx Please do! There are not many english tutorials, but plain basic ones, explaining Eding CNC, so I guess it would cater to english speaking users of this CNC software. And there are so many nice features within this software
Agreed I was always happy with this software also if you ever need a repair on your board you can send it in and get it repaired or replaced for a flat fee. Pretty good service.
Excellent that you liked it. I will upload a vid this weekend about setting xyz zero. There are some cool tips in it like how to use a camera for set up.
I have not, I like the one with the dial. No battery to go dead and I like the idea to be able to read in between 2 increments something you cannot do with the digital one. But I am sure it will be a great addition either way
@@JBWorx thank you for the quick reply! I am new to CNC , your content has helped me tremendously. I have a Foxalien CL 4x4. Will be cutting a lot of plywood to make retail displays for my business, similar to the ones you cut in this video. I don’t want to have to keep changing out my wasteboard. This setup and the tape trick is brilliant. I am a Mechanical Engineer so your approach really appeals to me.
Excellent ! I think you will be up and running in no time. There are a couple “how to” hurdles to overcome but after that it’s just practice and experience as with many other things (just thinking of my 3D Printer 😬). Thx for reaching out.
@@JBWorx when my CNC is running, I actually feel it's relaxing unless I get a call, lol. I don't know why, music distracts my mind so much that I can't understand what's being said. Maybe I have a very simple, single track mind. Lol
I don’t listen to music when I am working. I need to hear what the machine is doing - maybe on the lathe I do it at times for a part that I have an oder of 500 and I am 50 parts into it and all is running well. Or sanding wood panels - but usually like you I don’t have music on either.
What kind of lubricant did you used on the end of video, aince you was not explain those part before. Is it a PTFE silicone grease or white lithium grease?
i used a Smc02 Stepper Motor Driver for the pump, and mounted it at my operators panel. and also used a relay to control it via the cnc controls. Works really well thank you so much! 😎👍
Yes that is what someone reported as well. It’s an all in one unit- yes? I have one here to test. Someone else reported that he cannot get the rpm low enough. But sounds like you got it going. Great job !
@@JBWorx i goofed around with the settings a bit. you can set a rpm for forward and reverse to. Might have to up the amps on the controller. i used a different pump as well. it's a nice all in one package ( be aware there is a red and a blue one, i have the red one. no need for a separate stepper driver with red) and ofc you need a power supply to give it power
I bought several of these over the years for machines that I sold. Lately I order from Amazon there is a Huanyang store and you get an authentic one. Also I buy the 3 year warranty with it. If the runout or something else is not to your liking you can just send it back.
Hi JB, I am watching this video because a friend asked me about thread milling, I am going to forward them the video. Could you share what the process of thread milling and a thread mill (the tool) is called in German? Is it Schraubfräsen?
Im allgemeinen sagt man Gewinde fräsen. Das Gewinde wirbeln gibt es auch benutzt Aber üblicherweise einen Aufsatz. Und du brauchst dann einen Gewindefräser.
Yes, I do explain that I think in the video where I make the spoil board. So if you Zero on the machine bed any material variation from plate to plate or batch to batch will be invisible to the Z setting. You will always cut all the way through the material AND avoid cutting into the spoil board. Hope this short explanation makes sense.
@@JBWorx just watched ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YVEvCBv6PM0.html and i didn't hear anything about the Z-0 to the spoilboard (but perhaps i missed it). i'm not sure why 0-ing to the material surface made more sense as a beginner (i've only been doing CNC for 8 months) but what you said above makes sense since otherwise you're thinking depth-of-cut rather than thickness of material after cut. perhaps it varies by project and i haven't done enough projects that make more sense zeroed to the spoilboard.
Yes there are times were you need to have a price depth of a pocket for instance without surfacing the material first. Now you need to zero out on top of the material. If I have to cut through the material I always prefer to zero out on top of the spoil board.
Your content is so useful and informative and talked about consistently with some of my friends and I working on various cnc and machining projects. I very much appreciate your efforts in this space to educate and inform.
Yes certainly. You can select 2 tools in V- carve and use one for the Final Cut. However I think I would just run a 1/8” and see how you like it. The finger joint fillets are almost not noticeable.
Great Video!!! Two questions: 1. What it the description for the cable that goes to the peristaltic pump. I would like to source that. Secondly what hold the heatsink on the chip. I have used the heat sink paste, but I thought the heat sink needs to be held in place somehow. Thanks... Richard
Hi Richard, the cable is an ordinary stepper motor connector cable - mine came with the board or pump can’t remember. If you have to buy it separately just look for the NEMA size of the motor so let’s say NEMA 14 and search for connector wire. These have usually a JST connector on the end the number gives the pitch between the individual connectors in the plug. So you can check that as well on the pump itself. The heat sink has a tape on the back and that is what I used. But you could upgrade to thermal paste and another way to hold it in place like 2 stand offs and a bridge over it or a small wire tie. Another idea is to remove some of the tape and use both in combination. Hope this helps
It is a little dependent on the acceleration of your machine. The feed rate makes really not that much difference as all the moves are very very small. So a high acceleration of the axis makes a big difference. I can’t tell you how long it took from top of my head but I think it was 90 minutes on my machine. Also the sepover makes a huge difference. So how smooth of a surface do you want and how much detail. My controller also shows the cutting time so I can make changes in case I don’t like the time.
Wont be much longer until I make a set of these as my machine is now up and running. But quick question, bearing in mind, I have never used this type of vise: Couldn't you make the fixed side from one piece of billet? Is there a practical reason it is in two parts except for just sticking with the same stock and thickness as you'd need for the moving side parts?
I figured it out. The original design reasoning is to be able to swap the top plates for soft jaws and also to turn them around and use the backsides with normal parallels.
@@JBWorx ah ok, nice Just wanted to highlight that a video is the perfect place to display information in a visual way But this is a 2-year-old video, so maybe you're already doing that
@@JBWorx I just found the box creator gadget puts them in places that are not easy to sand. So I don't use the tabs. I just shoot a 23 gage pin nail so the parts don't move around. I have a version 1.5 of the box creator gadget that remembers the last settings used in all the fields and I modified it to default to tabbed lid instead of dovetail. Also turned off the ramping as well. SharkCNC fixed a few of these things for me. The file is on Vectric User Support Board.
Nice thank you !! Instead of shooting the nails you can make a test using a compression bit. It will pack the chips very tightly into the path of the tool so that the part that gets cut out stays in place. It works in many situations.
My Bosch Router blows out the chips and clears the cut as it goes along. The heavy pieces will stay in place most of the time but the smaller 1/4" material parts will get blown around. So the 23 gage pin nails are my go to choice. The holes are hard to see in the material as they are like a straight pin in size.
I have a 12CFM vac pump for composite work that is also the oil mist variety. I knew going into it that mist would be expelled, but the first time you do it indoors, there's going to be a film on Everything. That was a one-time mistake. I've since added a DIY mist recovery valve and accumulator system that will eventually get a scavenge pump, filter, etc., just to try to turn it into a recirc system. I've pondered going with a sort of vac table for the CNC, but assuming the workpiece will fit, I have an old setup for a vacuum chamber that I will reassemble as a top cover, block off the access to whatever is open on my table, and let the pump run on the workpiece. Only problem that would require a fairly elaborate routing would be an air-cooling loop for the cnc motor, at which point I would consider moving to a liquid-chilled system. Sounds like a lot of work when I normally just run toe vise clamps or sacrificial adhesives on thin stock that I'm having a hard time getting past for justification other than Cool factor.
Adding a vac plate is nice - BUT ! It has its limitations. The main advantage is to hold down thin larger stock that, for example, could not be held down with toe clamps. Instead of going through all that trouble I like to suggest you make a prototype vac plate for the parts you normally make and use your shop vac as a pump. This can give you an idea if you like working with an vac setup or prefer the regular clamping. Hope this helps.
Thanks for making this video, yeah omron micro switch is my choice for my desktop CNC & all 3D printers came with it. Well done so no need to upgrade omron micro switch is good enough.❤
