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As far as I know the XR label started on the 18 volt batteries. The XR batteries had extra cells and were marketed as "Extended Run" (XR). The 20 volt 2ah batteries don't have the XR because they do not have extended capabilities. I don't think that XR has anything to do with brushed or brushless.
XR actually stands for extended runtime. It’s an enhanced update to provide more runtime. On the Powertool itself it usually means it’s brushless. When it comes to the battery: that 5ah is an enhanced version of the original 3ah battery (there was at first a 5s 2p 3ah lithium Dewalt battery-10 1.5ah cells)
I'd use a 3/16 file and mabey not do so many strokes and follow the angle of the teeth and it should fill smooth....... best thing is to just go buy the regular 3/16 file with the handle and a practice
Or you can use your cheater stick to make marks on the log with a hatchet. Of course, if you're dead set on using this contraption, put a cap and a big plastic washer on the other end. Then you can just hook the washer in the groove of the last mark each time. Use plastic for less weight, or maybe a plastic screw, anything to hook in the groove. One question in my mind is won't you be spending more time sharpening your saw if that thing falls off and hits your chain while it's spinning?
The file guide has two handles. If you put two hands on it you'll have an easier time putting force in the correct direction. I've found them to be ok, but people tend to not look at what the tooth looks like since they were using a guide. You know which shape it should have, and the guide can get you there, but if people just file without looking you're gonna file your teeth into little recliners.
The doohicky that turns into a thingamabob! Drill 1/4" holes at desired firewood lengths through your pipe, pass 1/4" carriage bolt through pipe so it extends 1/2" or so deeper than your marking cuts and use it as a stop. More accurate than eyeballing it. And now your doohicky is a Thingamabob.
Harbor Freight sells round magnets with a hole for $5 - $5.00. I just put a wood screw into the proper length wooden dowel. Same concept, but maybe a little easier to make. I prefer my wooden dowel be in the middle of the bar, and I make my marks with just the end of the bar. Once I make my marks, it goes back in my pocket.
thinking if you cut the tool in half, put a reducer connection and make the far end out of a smaller diameter, so when you store it in the toolbox, you can put smaller end into the other to minimize toolbox space, and it takes some of the weight off the far end of the gauge. Just glue the reducer to the small diameter size and flip it around to store...
I just put a new chain (Oregon, so not as hard of steel as the Stihl chains) on my 1972 Homelite after restoring it and am getting set up to cut a few cords of wood given to me by a friend clearing his land. I hadn't considered what you detailed here when sharpening my chain but I'm glad I happened upon your video because now I'll know what to keep an eye open for when I do have to sharpen it.
Made mine w a piece of 1/2" schedule 40, much lighter. Put a cap on other end w some kind of larger flat piece to place in the cut mark , much more accurate. I used just a flat piece about 2 1/2" square of plastic
I've used a Stihl sharpener for years. They keep your teeth sharp and raker height correct in the same motion. I use a c-clamp on the bar for stability when sharpening a saw on my tailgate or a stump in the woods. You're measuring tool should be the longest length you cut. Drill holes in your pvc pipe at any shorter interval you cut then run a zip tie through the hole to measure shorter cuts.
I too had that problem at one time sharpening my saw until I met one of my buddies and he was a lumberjack and he showed me how to sharpen it now they sharpen all the guides out. I don’t but he showed me how to sharpen my saw. He told me he been shopping saws for 25 years and his daddy showed him how to do it so I guess I’ll take his advice and I did take his advice. Let someone who sharpens 20 or 30 times a day and they do it fast too.
Just got off the ladder(yeah I know better) topping the rest of a tree for the bird houses to sit on. Now I need to find someone who can tell me why my saw cuts to the right. About two inches on a 12 inch cut. I sharpen my own. Cheers
The first thing that I would do is get rid of that clunky sharpening tool and just use a file. Also I saw you or one of your guys going back and forth while filing the tooth. Always file the theeth one way only and that's starting with file handle close to the engine and pushing towards the tip of bar. Never file towards the engine!! Your eyes are your best guide for sharpening your saw and you obviously won't learn it in a day but once you learn you will never take your chain to have the shop sharpening it and will never use one of those crazy guides. Good luck!
I’m amazed that you haven’t had a serious accident with your chain in such poor condition. You also need to elevate the pitch to the correct angle when sharpening your chain, no matter what method you use 👍
I bought a cheap electric dremel sharpening tool and wow did it work awesome, took me 5 min so sharpen and it made a world of a difference compared to my file which I was probably doing incorrectly.
You are right that the gullet needs to be filed across straight. However there are several other problems with that chain. All the teeth need to be the same size or only the tallest ones actually cut. This chain has some taller and some shorter (more worn). File them all to the same size (that of the most worn tooth). The depth gauges have all been filed down way too much. Now the chain will try to bite in too much bogging down the saw and slowing the cutting process. Several of those teeth have seen dirt. The top corner of the cutting edge is rounded over. That matters. It is the edge that actually does the cutting. If rounded, it wont be a sharp edge that contacts the wood. It needs to be sharpened past that point, and then all teeth down to the same point to match. This chain has already been ruined and will bever cut well again. Its time for a new one.
You need to use a 3/16” file not the larger 7/32 or 13/64 file. That is smaller .325 pitch chain on the stihl 250. Smaller tooth profile needs smaller diameter file. Also set up a saw buck for cutting mill ends to keep you from sawing the dirt.
I just ran across your video. As a retired STIHL tech I'm always like watching sharpening videos. I don't file ar grind out the gullet. That is the strength of the tooth. The file, or grinder, should only sharpen the top plate and side plate. plate
Interesting video. Having spent 40 years on the back side of a Stihl, the first thing I noticed on your chain was the blunt tips of the teeth. Second, although more difficult to judge, was the apparent difference in length of the teeth from one side to the other. A general rule of thumb is whenever you can see or feel the tips losing that sharp point, stop and give the chain about three strokes per tooth. Make a serious effort to keep the teeth the same length to prevent sawing in a curve. The long side will always cut faster. Good luck and please use your safety equipment!!
Thank you for sharing this, I have the same sharpener which was an improvement from just using a rat tail file. I have a small STIHL for around the home and upgraded to the STIHL easy-sharpener which was an improvement from just using a rat tail and small bastard file. Now I realize I was not putting quite enough downward pressure and also better understand what the profile should be now, thanks to this video.
