My number one goal is to help you save money on your automotive repairs. Automotive Repair Videos for the do it your self-er to Master Mechanic or the flat rate mechanics (DIY) trying to trim a little time off there repairs. These videos are for everyone. From beginner to advance.
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I'm Reggie Curtis, AKA "The Flat Rate Mechanic" I am a 30yr master certified automotive mechanic.
My goal here is to help people repair their cars. Automotive repairs and be very costly and time-consuming and over the years I have learned mean tips and tricks that can save people time and money on their automotive repairs I would like to share with the world.
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So I have a 2003 honda crv 2.4. Installed an aftermarket stereo the car worked fine and started fine for the first day parked it from 10pm till 6am the next morning still started first crank parked it again for 4 hrs tried to start it again and only got one click by the starter but didnt start. Tried a brand new battery didnt work did the same one click. I have a new alternator also tried boosting with two different cars and a charge pack all the same click. Stereo works fine same with lights. Tried putting the factory system back in and still the same thing. Tried snacking the starter with no difference. People are telling me the key might have deprogrammed. Could the anti theft device the immobilizer be stopping it from starting or is it actually the starter. The starter never had a problem always started first crank
this was very helpful thank you! i bought the smoke tester, it's great. found a tiny leak where the intake boot clamps to the throttle, but no change after that was tightened. did a water spray all over the intake manifold gaskets and no steam out of the exhaust. smoke tested the exhaust as well and nothing. my long term fuel trim is around 18% on both banks at low load or idle and drops to around 10% under medium throttle. i did notice my intake air temp was considerably off from actual air temperatures and very slow to respond to changes ( from sitting in a parking lot, hot start on a hot day, to diving down the highway at 55, it changed very slowly and never read the right temp, was always high by about 5-10%) new maf on the way, i think mine is original, 20yrs old, 264k on it. cleaning it didn't have any impact.
Weird thing never heard a engine stall because of a oil thing 🤦♂️ . Question , so if the car stalls because of a oil thing do some parts stop functioning and causes the car to stall or ? 🤷♂️ If so what parts ?.
Great question. It is indeed unusual for an engine to stall due to an oil issue. On this engine oil pressure is used to activate the variable valve timing solenoid. I would say this is the root cause.
I replaced the Maf sensor, the intake gasket, replaced a PCV valve and the tubing and there’s not any other leak, now I have a P0174 code. Should I have to replace the oxygen sensors? Help!!! I already spent $700 pus the parts.
I just replaced both knock sensors 5.3 L with new wiring harness. Sealed both sensor boots as directed. All a/c delco parts. Cleared codes. Drove until all readiness codes were complete, same codes as before. SEL is on. Connector is in place correctly and now wonder why the low voltage code is back. Could the PCM have issues or wiring issue between sensors and PCM?
This is happening on my 2011 Honda Accord, but the "D" blinked for a while like a couple weeks back, then stopped, then started again but isn't blinking now. I made an appointment but am hearing that it's possible that if it's not blinking the code won't be stored, so I'm thinking of temporarily cancelling. The code tool listed isn't available on Amazon currently, would you know if this MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2 Scanner Code Reader Engine Fault Scanner CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBD II Protocol Cars Since 1996, Yellow, would do the job as well? Thank you in advance for any input!
Figured it was the oil cooler because the sludge matched the motor dipstick. Same thing on mine. The only other thing though is depending on the vehicle it may be a water pump?
I installed a new blower motor and it worked for 7 days, then I hit a pot hole and it stopped working. I will try this and check the wires. I do feel cold air, its just not blowing. Could it be the resistor?
I do it all this time with a thick flat head but I never opened the bleeder screw , whats the difference with compressing whit that or a c clap c, u don't opened the bleeder with a c clap
What does it mean if it only came on when key is just in ignition, i did not start the car, and also, why is my radio and PRNDL light still on even after key out and door opened ? (2014 Mini Cooper)
done that a few times! they say if the tank never gets filled only small amounts at a time causes that .....remember the old ones had that sensor by the tank
